NEWS

Marcel Remy (94) has done a 12 pitches 5b+
Marcel Remy, over 94 years old, has climbed the north-west of Miroir de l'Argentine, 450 m high, 12 pitches, 5b+with his two sons and friends. Mammut will make a video about the ascent as well as how he came down flying a dual-parapente. The film will also include climbing from Kalymnos and Leonidio where he is a frequent guest.

Belhaj and Barber repeat Cobra Crack 8c (b+)
Logan Barber and Said Belhaj have repeated Sonnie Trotter's Cobra Crack 8c ( b+) trad in Squamish. Logan needed well over 100 sessions meanwhile Said did it in just eight days. Nathaniel Vigeant has taken the picture where Said prepares the classic one finger mono undercling.

11 September 2017

Youth olympic candidates

The Youth World Championship 2017 did show that the youngsters are well ahead of the seniors when it comes to Speed climbing. Most probably at least a dozen from Innsbruck will also make it to Tokyo 2020. Here is a provisional ranking list of the kids having the greatest chances. Note, it has net been decided how many athletes from one country can participate. Most likely it will be max 2 or 3. WC results marked as B and L: PR = Personal record in Speed 1. Yushiyuki Ogata JPN: #4 and #5 in last two L & B: PR 8:51 2. Sam Avezou FRA: #11 in Lead: PR 7.51* 3. Meichi Narasaki JPN: #2 in B & #11 in L WC: PR 8.00 4. Kai Harada JPN: #5 in B and #18 in L: PR 8.08 5. Filip Schenk ITA: #22 in Lead: PR 9.65 6. Kai Ligthner USA: PR 8.03 7. Carlos Granja: PR 6.53 8. Keita Dohi JPN: PR 8.10 1. Ashima Shiraishi USA: #5 in Lead: PR 11.98 2. Claire Buhrfeind USA: #16 in Lead: PR 9.17 3. Elena Krasovskaia RUS: #33 in Boulder: PR 9.19 4. Margo Hayes USA: #6 in L and #6 in B: PR 13.29 5. Brooke Raboutou USA #10 in L and #9 in B: PR 11.00 6. Laura Rogara ITA: #6 in Lead: PR 13.34 7. Laura Stรถckler AUT: #21 in Lead: PR 10.52 8. Iuliia Panteleva RUS: PR 9.82 * It should be noted that Sam Avezou is the best Speed climber in the world out of the ones performing on a world class level in at least two disciplines. Sean McColl who has won many senior Combined titles has a personal record of 8.83 seconds.

Climbing has made an interview with Adam Ondra who did not have trainer nor did he follow a program when when he was a teenager. He just climbed and he did not want to sacrifice anything. "I think many kids these days have climbing programs when theyโ€™re young. That adds pressure and takes away fun. I didnโ€™t have that; I just climbed with my feeling and fun and developed an approach. Itโ€™s much more important to develop the right climbing technique, which only happens when a kid is having fun. With more climbing more power will happen."

Sam Avezou wins through his Speed
Sam Avezou from France won the Combined Youth in a dramatic final climbing faster than Filip Schenk to their scoring 37+. If Filip, who started last, had controlled hold 38, he would have won. Sam is, among the ones performing in all three disciplines, the world's fastest Speed climber, 7.51 and a contender for a medal in Tokyo 2020. 1. Sam Avezou FRA 3 * 7 * 2 = 42 2. Filip Schenk ITA 15 * 1.5 * 3 = 67.5 3. Peter Ivanov BUL 6 * 3 * 4 = 72 Complete results It should be noted that in Youth A, the Top-20 from all disciplines competed as it was also a qualification for the Top-13 to the Youth Olympic Games in Argentina in 2018. In the Olympics, the Combined event will finish with a final with Top-6 from the semifinal. (c) Eddie Fowke.

Second Combined gold for Austria
Sandra Lettner won the Youth A category ahead of Ashima Shirashi who for the first time in a Youth comp did not stand on the top of the podium. Sandra has not yet competed in the World Cup but she has won the European Youth Cup in 2017 in both Lead and Boulder. 1. Sandra Lettner AUT 10 * 1 * 4 = 40 (S * B * L) 2. Ashima Shiraishi USA 13 * 4 * 1 = 52 3. Brooke Raboutou USA 9 * 3 * 5 = 135 Complete results - (c) Eddie Fowke.

Alex Khazanov has done Practice of the wild 8C (B+) in Magic Wood and goes to #7 in the ranking game. "One of my biggest struggles on a boulder. From almost doing it, to extending my trip and failing miserably 30 times on the upper crux shoulder move, I thinnly managed to keep it together and top one of my hardest and favorite boulders! 8B+ or 8C? I seriously dont know, and frankly, I dont care that much. I just know it was hard."