11 September 2017

Youth olympic candidates

The Youth World Championship 2017 did show that the youngsters are well ahead of the seniors when it comes to Speed climbing. Most probably at least a dozen from Innsbruck will also make it to Tokyo 2020. Here is a provisional ranking list of the kids having the greatest chances. Note, it has net been decided how many athletes from one country can participate. Most likely it will be max 2 or 3. WC results marked as B and L: PR = Personal record in Speed 1. Yushiyuki Ogata JPN: #4 and #5 in last two L & B: PR 8:51 2. Sam Avezou FRA: #11 in Lead: PR 7.51* 3. Meichi Narasaki JPN: #2 in B & #11 in L WC: PR 8.00 4. Kai Harada JPN: #5 in B and #18 in L: PR 8.08 5. Filip Schenk ITA: #22 in Lead: PR 9.65 6. Kai Ligthner USA: PR 8.03 7. Carlos Granja: PR 6.53 8. Keita Dohi JPN: PR 8.10 1. Ashima Shiraishi USA: #5 in Lead: PR 11.98 2. Claire Buhrfeind USA: #16 in Lead: PR 9.17 3. Elena Krasovskaia RUS: #33 in Boulder: PR 9.19 4. Margo Hayes USA: #6 in L and #6 in B: PR 13.29 5. Brooke Raboutou USA #10 in L and #9 in B: PR 11.00 6. Laura Rogara ITA: #6 in Lead: PR 13.34 7. Laura Stรถckler AUT: #21 in Lead: PR 10.52 8. Iuliia Panteleva RUS: PR 9.82 * It should be noted that Sam Avezou is the best Speed climber in the world out of the ones performing on a world class level in at least two disciplines. Sean McColl who has won many senior Combined titles has a personal record of 8.83 seconds.
7 comments
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโ€ฆ
Favorites
Janja Garnbret does Bibliographie (9b+)
Janja Garnbret has added another milestone to her remarkable climbing career by becoming the first woman to climb Bibliographie (9b+) in Cรฉรผse, one of the hardeโ€ฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
โ€I stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโ€™s World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders. Outdoor bouldering isโ€ฆ