NEWS

8C by Florian Schmalzl
5 December 2017

8C by Florian Schmalzl

Christof Rauch reported last week on his Instagram about Florian Schmalzl: "Today he climbed both of Klem Loskots masterpieces "Bรผgeleisen" (8B+) and "Emotional Landscapes" (8C) in Maltatal on the same day!" Florian is one of the few remaining hot shots climbing under the radar with no active social media. He is 26 years old and has been climbing for ten years and he has done a couple of 8B+'s before.

Climbing has presented an interesting interview with Adam Ondra in regards how he used visualization for doing Silence 9c. "There are three ways to do visualization, all performed while lying on a bed or mat: You can stay still and only do everything in your head. You can move your hands and feet slightly while you picture the moves. Or you can ask someone to โ€œcreateโ€ crucial holds and footholds. So, if there is a dyno to a jug, you get your body into position, guide your friend to create the jug exactly where it would be on the wall, and then go for it. I am using all three techniques."

Most climbers train mainly indoors and the goal is to do harder routes/boulders and often we have specific projects in mind. During the winter season, one good motivation booster is actually just to go out and rappel down the projects. To go down from above with a clear mind not being tired both physically and mentally could possibly open up for some new beta or thoughts. This might explain why the guys bolting routes end up with personal best on the routes that he/she did equip. Rappelling down could also be considered as visualization but in reality.

First 9a in Israel and an 8c+ flash by Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra has made a visit to Israel and the Nezer cave where he did eight routes including the FA of Climb free 9a and a flash of Yala factor 8c+. "Amazing project from Ofer on the right side of the cave. He was so close to make FA on this trip, thanks Ofer for letting me try it! One of the best in the cave."

Loic Zehani has done his 8th 9a, Ma faute ร  toi in Cevennes where he also did his first two years ago. "I redpointed the route Wednesday after the school (the 2 hours of drive) and after a good fight. I almost fallen at the top. It was a good moment with the principal bolter of the cave, Jean Marc Oberli. Now he is the most Frenchman of the swiss man... We must thank him for opening all these nice routes.

Is this a new world record set by the Boulder World Cup winner 2017?

8A+ in an hour by Alex Puccio
Alex Puccio has set some kind of record by taking down Le Retour de Goupil 8A+ in Hueco Tanks in just an hour. In total, she has done 21 boulders 8A+ to 8B+ the last year which also is a female record. In the 8a rankinggme she is #21 and she is actually almost 1 000 points ahead in the female ranking game. (c) Sarah Filler

The winter is approaching creating often better conditions. Climbing on a sunny wall is nice even in zero degrees. When there is no sun or windy, bouldering works fine through warming up exercises and a big jacket. Here are some tips how to be able to also climb longer routes when it is almost freezing and no sun, beside wearing warm clothing. 1. (Vertic) sleeves on forehand 2. Heater in chalk bag 3. Holes in pockets to place hand on stomach 4. Gloves with open fingers 5. Socks in bigger shoes 6. Shoes inside the jacket