Andrea Kümin, currently six months and eleven 8A’s into a road trip with David Firnenburg, has done Moonwalk (8A+) at Vesterøya. ”Moonwalk is a stunning and technical line right on the coastline of Vesterøya, Sandefjord. A tall, water-washed boulder, split by a single diagonal crack. The holds are round slopers and subtle crimps, with barely any footholds outside the crack – forcing creative movement and tricky heelhooks. The first crux comes right at the start. A polished sloper for the left hand that slopes the wrong way and nearly drove me mad. After a lot of experimenting, I finally found a technical heelhook that worked – but only if I shifted my weight with precision. The middle section is easier, but the real crux when coming from the bottom is the final long move to the top.

The first seven tries were all close – but I wasn’t making progress. My arms were getting tired. But David’s motto: “Stick with it when it’s that close.” So giving up wasn’t an option. Repeating the same beta wasn’t either. I could do the last move in isolation, but from the ground it was too risky and too physical when already tired. We worked out a new solution – a high heelhook on a rounded edge. Still sketchy and super technical, but if it holds, I can block the last move statically. In try 8, the heelhook slipped. I was tired but didn’t want to give up just yet. Attempt 9: the movements felt smooth and automatic, but my arms were cooked after 90+ moves on this problem this day. Somehow I managed to place the heelhook, shift my weight slowly, lock off, and trace my fingertips along the edge to the saving sloper. Completely exhausted, I pulled over the top – and couldn’t believe it. Mega! Sticking with it paid off!”

David has logged over 75 boulders graded 8A and above on the road trip, including 12 flashes—two of which were 8B’s in just the past two weeks. They're now putting together an overview of the best areas and standout boulders from their journey through Scandinavia.

Blå blomster ss (8B) in Moss. ”Oh, wow, that was short and intense. Toe hook sticked, toe stayed, just hit the crimp right, could hold the tension and pull through the lock-off. Thanks to Andrea to demonstrate the moves of the stand start in beforehand. Hard to grade this climb if you only had one try. Did just everything work perfectly? Would it have taken me a whole session after failing the flash try? I was close to fall but it somehow didn’t feel like a proper 8B to me, more like an 8A+ compared to other 8B climbs I’ve done in Sweden on the same type of rock right before coming here. Though, Thilo who did the FA is known for making solid grades. Whatever! Great climb during a fun little session with Andrea. Unfortunately, this place is just next to a road and there is trash everywhere. Norway has definitely more beautiful places to offer😆”

Din Dean (8B) in Tokerud. ”Wow, another flash. One of the great lines on this crag. Was close to miss the pocket but somehow sticked it. Kept it together with some hesitation and imprecise placements here and there. Like Blå Blomster I think it‘s soft for the grade, at least for my size. Maybe 8A+.”

Loic Zehani, who previously has done 17 FA’s 9a+ or 9b, has made the FA of La Sainte Poule (9a+) in Sainte-Baume. The picture is from his FA of Harder Better Faster Stronger (9b) from last autumn.

”Nice line where everything happens in the first part. A dozen moves ( not the most beautiful ! ) that lead to a very nice and tricky boulder section ( about 8A over 3 moves ) , then after a rest (not good) another nice boulder section wich works the shoulders well ! The second part , much less harder, is very beautiful . Bolted by my father with "la Poule" 's points , thanks to him.”

Alex Megos, who just put up the hardest route in Buoux, Le Grand Saccage (9a+/b), has on the same trip onsighted Dévers Sévère (8c+) and Finement con (8b+). (c) Jan Virt

The German climber is renowned for achieving the world’s first 9a onsight and has onsighted around 20 routes graded 8c or harder. This places him second only to Adam Ondra, who has onsighted approximately 100 routes at 8c and above.

Can you tell us more about the onsights, full control or any epic moves?
Dévers Sévère was only close at the very top. I couldn't properly see the holds and almost fell 😅. I did a 360 campus in the beginning of the route. It's a horizontal roof and I actually think my 360 campus was the best method 👌🏼

The 8b+ I did onsight was very straight forward pulling on pockets. It was very much my style.

How come you think there has not been any onsight progress over the last ten years?
I think Adam is the only one who really got into the onsight game. He focused a lot on it and really prepared for some hard onsights. Most people don't do that and have not done it. It will maybe come in the future, but at the moment the projecting game is much more in fashion. I think it's a matter of people not wanting to invest to much time and energy into only one try. If it's goes wrong it's over. There is no second try. So you need to be a) a very strong and intuitive climber and b) you need to be willing to invest time.

Alex Ventajas, with 17 routes 9a or 9a+ under his belt, has repeated Stefano Ghisolfi’s Beginning (9a+) in Arco. ”Another incredible route unlocked! I think one of most logical line in the sector. Amazing climb shared with great friends 💪🏻”

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
This line caught my attention from the very first time I visited the Eremo di San Paolo. Even though it’s the combination of two different routes, it stands out as one of the most logical and aesthetic lines in the sector. Maybe it was exactly its beauty that kept me motivated, even when it felt out of reach.

The line links the most demanding sections of two of the classic routes in the sector: “St. Anger” and “Zauberfee” (both graded 8c+/9a), which I had climbed in 2024 and 2022 respectively. The connection is made through a new central sequence that’s extremely physical and intense, requiring a lot of body tension. “Beginning” it’s a complete and complex route: extremely varied, but at the same time with a constant intensity all the way up to the anchor, which demands both solid endurance and very precise management of your climbing. The first part is rather aggressive, followed by a section that’s both physical and technical, a difficult rest, a final boulder problem followed by an endurance run on bad open-handed holds.

I started trying the route in the winter of 2024 together with two close friends, Luca Bertacco and Alessandro Larcher. It was a super motivating team experience! We pushed each other during those cold December days, between laughs, slices of pizza, and worn-out skin. Unfortunately, the low temperatures made it impossible to give 100%; even during the best tries, our fingers were freezing so much that we couldn’t even feel the holds. Up until December 31st, I Have never even managed to reach the rest point before the final crux, so I decided, with a bit of regret, to put the project on hold for a while.

As April started, I felt like “Beginning” was calling me back, and I knew it was time to try it again. After a first go, which was a bit of a struggle as I had to rediscover the right footwork on the first quickdraws, I quickly found a good rhythm, and, in just a few more tries I finally reached that long-awaited final rest! Right away I felt comfortable with the moves and the holds, and my motivation shot through the roof! I came back for three consecutive days, and I was so motivated I barely felt the fatigue. On the third go of the third day, I finally stuck the last boulder problem after the final rest. I felt full of energy so I could climb the last section completely focused and precise. Clipping the anchor was an unexplainable great feeling! I can honestly say I’m really happy I have never fallen on the final endurance section! What I value the most from this whole journey is the mindset I had managing the progression on the project and the moments I shared with the friends who were part of it, from the first attempts to the victory photo! (c) Crimp-Films

Sam Weir, who did three 8C+’ last year, has repeated Daniel Woods’ La force tranquille (8C) in Magic Wood. ”One off the life list. Amazing boulder and moves.”

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I tried the boulder a lot in 2020 and fell on the jump. Tried again the year after and fell before, on and after the jump. After a few years away I came back and it went in a few tries. I’m really pleased because what used to be a limit project with all the doubt and seriousness involved, where every single detail mattered , became a fun session this time around. I could not get the smile off my face the whole session from astonishment. It really puts my current project’s difficulty for me into perspective. Really happy with this one as it’s one off my life list. Couple more to go!

What are your current projects?
Projects include : the board climbs Clément and Nina and I set (had to include this because they are important to me 🤣) and I’m trying an old Tony Lamiche project here in Chamonix for two years now and Poison the Well (8C+). Fell on the last move 3 weeks ago and then summer rolled in 😢. So lots to do :)

Alex Megos has done the first ascent of Le Grand Saccage (9a+/b) in Buoux, which was bolted by Adrien Boulon. ”This route is the last one I bolted one year ago, the last line left in the cave. The main bolters of the cave and proper locals climbers do not want any other line to respect the integrity of the place. There's still potential to open hard lines, still some space in some sectors, but I hope and wish, next bolters will respect the ethic of this historical place, which actually is not always the case.” (c) Jan Virt

Back in the ‘80s, Buoux was at the epicenter of the sport climbing revolution. With bold bolting, technical limestone, and visionary lines like Chouca and Le Minimum, it helped define what sport climbing would become.

Fast forward to 2025, and Buoux is still making headlines. The long-standing project Le Bombe has become the crag’s modern centerpiece, attracting top climbers chasing one of France’s last legendary open lines. Old-school in style but forever relevant, Buoux continues to test skill, vision, and nerve.

Can you tell us more about your FA?
After coming to Buoux in February with my good friend Felix I checked out the project at the end of our trip and got psyched! So I had to return. The opportunity presented itself to return with Oriol and Jan Virt to try the route again and also film a YouTube video about it. In total I tried 3 days on the first trip and climbed it on the 3rd day of the second trip. So 6 days in total. It has a bunch of kneebars, that's why I was very unsure about the grade. You know I'm not the best when it comes to kneebars so I'm sure other people will find better kneebars. That's why it could range from 9a+ to 9b. We'll see what other people think. It's an incredible route and the area has so much to offer! I hope through that route people will have Buoux back on the map again.

Chris Frick, who three years ago did his fifth 8c, has completed Gorilas en la niebla (8b+) in Oliana. ”Amazing 55m of physical climbing meandering through the central wall up to the ideal finish on a no-hands at the top of the cliff. Great to send something at this level after 13 months of investment in improving climbing skills (and mostly indoors throughout 2024 and beginning of 2025 due to bad conditions on my projects at home). It’s far from over even at age of 57! An excellent physical shape is still possible :) Psyched to see what’s coming next! Thanks for best support Tina and Loulou!” (c) Augustine Fort

What can you tell us about your journey?
Although in climbing I value the process and in a project the small steps forward the most, it is always nice to clip a chain from time to time. As an intermediate stop, so to speak. Quasi to check how far the process has progressed and what the result might look like. The last send was 13 months ago and in that time I was nothing more than searching for a dry project. Due to the remarkably bad weather in 2024/2025, I was slowed down several times by the constant wetness. This mainly has to do with the fact that I'm not the fastest when it comes to sending a project at the personal limit. Before I'm even ready for a send, an otherwise dry route is already wet again. So I realized that I could change something in my climbing once again. I wanted to be able to climb routes at the limit a little faster and not be solely dependent on good conditions. I mean, I've been climbing for 43 years and to make it interesting and enjoyable, it always makes sense to question yourself and work on your own skills. That's how I stay motivated. Climbing has never been boring for me. I would also like to continue my lifetime project that I’ve bolted nearby home, which requires specific strength and technique. So I tackled one of my biggest weaknesses: physically hard lock-offs on small ledges on a forty-degree spray wall.

Of course, it is interesting to see for yourself whether the loss of power is really so dramatic in your mid-fifties (I reckon easier for males as females have also to deal with menopause). I can tell you that training like this is tough and I didn't see a single improvement on the spray wall for six months. Although frustrating, I intuitively carried on anyway. And all of a sudden my power went through the roof. I learned so much. Above all, to still trust my body but also my mind. I could write a lot about this topic and climbing in old age, but that would take up too much space here. However, I very much hope to motivate some of you to realize that there is no reason to let your head hang down in old age. We old(er) people can do so much more than we think. And according to modern scientific research, high intensity loads help to keep cells young (keyword telomeres) :) So let’s go!

How many FA’s have you done? And how much work did you put into rebolting Oliana?
I cannot give you the exact number as I’m not bookkeeping my FA’s. But somewhere in-between 400 to 500, mainly in Switzerland, but also in some other countries (e.g. Flatanger/Norway). My first FA I have put up in my first year of climbing (1982). Since then contributing to the community was always part of my climbing philosophy, that is if you take from you have to give something back. So I’ve rebolted even more. With Oliana I have a special connection as I was helping to rebuild after the wildfire in 2022. It was worth it to spend my holidays. The crag is so good and the climbing community there is so nice and fanatic. This is why I decided to come back for Oliana this spring after a break of few years. By the way, I have worked ’Gorilas…’ a bit already five years ago and haven’t had a chance in its bouldery crux. So this was a good test of my shape and I can say I’m better the older I get. Like an old wine, ha ha.

Lorenzo Bogliacino, with three 9a+’ under his belt, has done the FA of Vivi si muore (9a+) in La Stazione. ”9a/+. A pleasure and a gift to bolt and free such an all-natural line. Two boulders and then final endurance on the exit of ‘Paranoid Android’. I dream about the right exit.” (c) Alessandro Palma

Julia Fiser, who was #9 in the Innsbruck World Cup 2024, has done Tunnelblick (8c+) in Achleiten. ”🥹 Almost 5 years after my first try. So many things happened in between. Proud that I never gave up. Yesterday, everything just aligned and it felt effortless, leaving me wondering how it took me so long. But also, I wouldn't want it any other way. What a beautiful journey 🩷” (c) Tobias Lanzanasto

Can you tell us more about your beautiful journey?
Last autumn, I set myself the goal of finishing two old projects of mine which I both first tried in 2020: Wassermusik at Schleier Wasserfall and Tunnelblick in Achleiten. I was quite lucky on Wassermusik, because it tends to be wet all the time, but in November all the holds were more or less dry and I managed to finish it. I had a session or 2 on Tunnelblick before training started again in December. The moves felt good and especially the crux felt better than ever before. But I was clearly lacking the endurance to arrive at the crux without too much pump to actually be able to hold these small crimps. Last week I just finished an intense endurance training block and I knew soon it’s gonna be too warm in Achleiten, so I decided to have one more day on it before the first Lead Worldcups in Asia.

When I pulled off the ground last Tuesday, I felt a bit shaky in the first slabby part. I wasn't surprised about that, this was supposed to be my warmup try. But when the "real" climbing began, I've never felt more calm. My head was clear, no "what if's", just pure focus on the next move. The flow state that we all seek and admire. In the back of my mind, after I passed the first crux, I somehow already knew that I'll do it this time. Yet I stayed calm and let my body do the work. When I did the last crux, which threw me off so many times, without any problems this time, I wondered how it took me so long. Now I realise that it only felt so easy because it took me so long. I can now appreciate every single moment I spent on the route in the last 5 years. I understand that the journey that lead me to climb Tunnelblick truly turned me into a better climber. Not just physically, but mostly mentally.

I want to thank every person that spent time with me on the route and in Achleiten in general. Every single one of you shaped me in some way or another. Grateful for this community <3