
13 April 2025
Alex Megos FAโs Le Grand Saccage (9a+/b)
Alex Megos has done the first ascent of Le Grand Saccage (9a+/b) in Buoux, which was bolted by Adrien Boulon. โThis route is the last one I bolted one year ago, the last line left in the cave. The main bolters of the cave and proper locals climbers do not want any other line to respect the integrity of the place.
There's still potential to open hard lines, still some space in some sectors, but I hope and wish, next bolters will respect the ethic of this historical place, which actually is not always the case.โ (c) Jan Virt
Back in the โ80s, Buoux was at the epicenter of the sport climbing revolution. With bold bolting, technical limestone, and visionary lines like Chouca and Le Minimum, it helped define what sport climbing would become.
Fast forward to 2025, and Buoux is still making headlines. The long-standing project Le Bombe has become the cragโs modern centerpiece, attracting top climbers chasing one of Franceโs last legendary open lines. Old-school in style but forever relevant, Buoux continues to test skill, vision, and nerve.
Can you tell us more about your FA?
After coming to Buoux in February with my good friend Felix I checked out the project at the end of our trip and got psyched! So I had to return. The opportunity presented itself to return with Oriol and Jan Virt to try the route again and also film a YouTube video about it. In total I tried 3 days on the first trip and climbed it on the 3rd day of the second trip. So 6 days in total. It has a bunch of kneebars, that's why I was very unsure about the grade. You know I'm not the best when it comes to kneebars so I'm sure other people will find better kneebars. That's why it could range from 9a+ to 9b. We'll see what other people think. It's an incredible route and the area has so much to offer! I hope through that route people will have Buoux back on the map again.
Back in the โ80s, Buoux was at the epicenter of the sport climbing revolution. With bold bolting, technical limestone, and visionary lines like Chouca and Le Minimum, it helped define what sport climbing would become.
Fast forward to 2025, and Buoux is still making headlines. The long-standing project Le Bombe has become the cragโs modern centerpiece, attracting top climbers chasing one of Franceโs last legendary open lines. Old-school in style but forever relevant, Buoux continues to test skill, vision, and nerve.
Can you tell us more about your FA?
After coming to Buoux in February with my good friend Felix I checked out the project at the end of our trip and got psyched! So I had to return. The opportunity presented itself to return with Oriol and Jan Virt to try the route again and also film a YouTube video about it. In total I tried 3 days on the first trip and climbed it on the 3rd day of the second trip. So 6 days in total. It has a bunch of kneebars, that's why I was very unsure about the grade. You know I'm not the best when it comes to kneebars so I'm sure other people will find better kneebars. That's why it could range from 9a+ to 9b. We'll see what other people think. It's an incredible route and the area has so much to offer! I hope through that route people will have Buoux back on the map again.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
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