Alex Megos onsights Dévers Sévère (8c/+)

Alex Megos, who just put up the hardest route in Buoux, Le Grand Saccage (9a+/b), has on the same trip onsighted Dévers Sévère (8c+) and Finement con (8b+). (c) Jan Virt

The German climber is renowned for achieving the world’s first 9a onsight and has onsighted around 20 routes graded 8c or harder. This places him second only to Adam Ondra, who has onsighted approximately 100 routes at 8c and above.

Can you tell us more about the onsights, full control or any epic moves?
Dévers Sévère was only close at the very top. I couldn't properly see the holds and almost fell 😅. I did a 360 campus in the beginning of the route. It's a horizontal roof and I actually think my 360 campus was the best method 👌🏼

The 8b+ I did onsight was very straight forward pulling on pockets. It was very much my style.

How come you think there has not been any onsight progress over the last ten years?
I think Adam is the only one who really got into the onsight game. He focused a lot on it and really prepared for some hard onsights. Most people don't do that and have not done it. It will maybe come in the future, but at the moment the projecting game is much more in fashion. I think it's a matter of people not wanting to invest to much time and energy into only one try. If it's goes wrong it's over. There is no second try. So you need to be a) a very strong and intuitive climber and b) you need to be willing to invest time.