Sungsu Lee, who did his first 8C a year and a half ago, has sent Sosa (8C+) in Little Cottonwood. In total, the 26-year-old has completed a dozen boulders ranging from 8C to 9A. ”A Banger from Zach.”(c) Taylor Bolt

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
I did it after Grand Illusion (8C+) but I finished just two days before heading back to Korea. I think it took around 7 sessions. The hardest part was falling more than 10 times on the final jump move. If I get the chance, I’d love to come back to SLC again—the good vibes and good friends are already making me miss it.

What are your autumn and winter plans?
In the fall, I think I’ll head to Mizugaki, and in the winter, I’m not sure yet, but I’m considering Red Rocks!

Janja Garnbret won her tenth World Championship gold in a very intense fight over Oriane Bertone, who flashed the first three and had her fingers on the top of the last.

It’s incredible, honestly. I don’t know if I wished that this would happen, but today I just climbed with my heart. I felt kind of empty from yesterday’s Lead semi and final, after winning the adrenaline goes a little down but I really just focused on myself and my climbing and luckily it worked out today. You kind of know what is going on, but not really. I knew already at the observation that the boulders were not that hard, maybe the last one was the hardest, but I knew there wasn’t a lot of room for mistakes. I knew what I had to do on the last boulder as I knew Oriane didn’t top. It definitely looked like my style and I knew I would top it, but it adds a bit of pressure.”

Lee Dohyun, who won his first Lead World Cup this summer, claimed victory in front of his home crowd, based on countback from the semi. Last year the Korean won his second and third Boulder World Cup and he was ranked third in the qualification earlier this week.

“I feel amazing. It’s my dream to win a World Championship, and it has come true. I’m lost for words. This is my hometown and my parents and friends are here so it means a lot. When I was young I was a Lead climber and when I did Boulder my results were good, so I changed to Boulder, but I like to do both. I’m not sure about winning another medal in Boulder, but I am confident in my Boulder, so I will just do my best.”

After having won both the qualification and semi, Janja Garnbret created the best finnish of the Lead World Championship by topping the final route.

”This one feels extra special. After last year, the Olympic year, where the pressure was the highest, I didn’t know if I could handle another year with another important competition, but I am so glad I did this World Champs. My body was ready, and my mind was at peace with myself and whatever happened would happen, and it’s another world title and I am so excited. Today there is no time to celebrate. I’ll do that after tomorrow. The excitement is super high and I’m excited to get on the boulder wall tomorrow and do my best. I hope I will be able to sleep tonight as I will be buzzing in my bed, but I’m looking forward to tomorrows comp.”

Sorato Anraku, the big favorite at the World Championship in Korea, finished in tenth place in the semifinal. During the qualification round, another of the big names, Toby Roberts, was eliminated, placing 25th. Complete semi results.

The biggest sensation during the women's semifinal at the World Championship in Korea was that Laura Rogora narrowly missed the final, finishing in ninth place. Complete semi results.

Loic Zehani, who the last ten years has put up 51 routes 9a to 9b, has made the FA of Fubar (9a) in Les Branches. ”Amazing big overhang. Almost all the 8c+ bolted by Christophe Bernard ( to the right of La bouga ) then finish to the left with 12 hard and nice moves. After falling two times at the very top yesterday today was the good one. So happy to climb the first 9a of this fantastic crag.”

Can you tell us more about the first ascent?
It’s an extension to an 8c+ (which I climbed in 2022 and still hasn’t been repeated) that ends at the end of my big project (equipped by my father and which could potentially be a 9b+). This summer I made great progress on the project, but as I felt I probably wouldn’t have the time this season, I devoted the last three sessions to climbing the 9a, which involves a major endurance effort in the second part and bouldering sections interspersed with rests on the first part of the route. It’s the first 9a route in the sector, but Jean Marc Oberli and my father have begun to develop the cave’s 9 potential over the last two years.

Lana Skušek, who last year was #8 in the Lead Europe Championships, has done The Source stand (8A+) in Maltatal.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I first tried the line a few days earlier — managed to do all the moves, but couldn’t link it. Three days later it was way better and I knew it would still go. I knew exactly what I had to do, and pretty quickly I managed to send. It was also my first time climbing with a kneepad, and I have to say, it’s actually pretty fun.

Simon Lorenzi, with four 9A’s to his name, has done Permanent midnight low (8C+) and flashed Compass North (8B+) both established by Clement Lechaptois in Fionnay. The 28-year-old Belgian has been an active competition climber for 15 years and in 2022 he won one Euro Cup.

Few male athletes dare to speak openly about their doubts and struggles. Simon does so with authenticity and transparency. After a difficult period – failing to qualify for the Paris 2024 Olympics, a challenging trip to the US (where he nevertheless climbed his fourth 9A) – he went through a deep questioning. In an interview with Vertige Media, he opened up about his burnout and loss of meaning in sport, speaking about symptoms of depression and a feeling of loneliness in his pursuit of performance.

Today, Simon climbs free from pressure and outside expectations. He has established new routines and methods to combine performance and enjoyment: performance is no longer a solitary pursuit. He surrounds himself with his partner, friends, and manager, and shares his experience with other climbers. Recently, he supported Jules Marchaland in his flash of The Power of Now (8C), a boulder Simon had opened a few years earlier, by showing him key beta and giving him confidence. This perfectly reflects his new mindset: rediscovering joy in effort, in hard projects, beautiful lines, and technical moves, while seeing each challenge as an opportunity to grow – not only as a climber but also as a human being. His energy and optimism make his obsession truly inspiring.

Jules Marchaland, who is just back home from Flatanger, has done the first ascent of in Carros. In the VL ranking game, the 24-year-old is #1 including having done eleven routes 9a to 9b during the last 12 months. In the three Worlds Cups he has participated in this summer he was 17 - 26 - 26. And one month ago he flashed an 8C boulder.

Can you tell us more about the first ascent?
A cool Line from Cedric Lo Piccolo. He bolted it because his wife Stefani was trying Chocholocco (9a) and he needed a route to climb there because he already had done all the routes, haha.

A bit chipped but really fun and cool to climb. I tried it yesterday, one go to check the moves, one pretty good try. I come back today and send it directly. It was cool during this small trip to home. Just 15 min from my parents house.

What is next?
Training in Grenoble after too much rock climb haha. Then maybe Fionnay, a bit in Font and then training again before the USA trip my my bros.

What about next year, going back into comp mode?
Comps are finnished. I want to do what I love. Maybe in some years, but now I just want to climb outside and keep the fire high.