NEWS
22 June 2026
Neo Suzuki wins third gold in 2026
Neo Suzuki, who opened the season with finishes of 1-1-2 across the first three Lead World Cups, claimed victory in Innsbruck after a countback decision. Olympic champion Alberto Ginรฉs Lรณpez took second place, extending his record to eleven World Cup podiums without a win.
โI just wanted to win at this awesome venue,โ Suzuki said shortly after the flower ceremony.
โI just wanted to win at this awesome venue,โ Suzuki said shortly after the flower ceremony.
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2
022 June 2026
Garnbret reaches 50 World Cup wins
Janja Garnbret, who just sent , claimed her 32nd Lead World Cup victory in Innsbruck and her 50th overall. She has not missed a podium in a Lead or Boulder World Cup event since 2019, and her rare combination of competition dominance and elite outdoor climbing places her among the greatest female athletes in any sport.
"It feels absolutely incredible! I have to be honest, the 50th win was in the back of my mind for quite some time, but I was trying to play it cool, not think about it too much. Today I was feeling like it was my day, I felt super good, and Innsbruck brings the best out of me.
Fifty is crazy! I'm immensely grateful for all the love and support that I get. I will set some new goals soon, I've always said that Bibliographie was the biggest goal of the season, now I got the 50th gold, I guess celebration is in order now!"
"It feels absolutely incredible! I have to be honest, the 50th win was in the back of my mind for quite some time, but I was trying to play it cool, not think about it too much. Today I was feeling like it was my day, I felt super good, and Innsbruck brings the best out of me.
Fifty is crazy! I'm immensely grateful for all the love and support that I get. I will set some new goals soon, I've always said that Bibliographie was the biggest goal of the season, now I got the 50th gold, I guess celebration is in order now!"
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8
221 June 2026
Manon Hily ticks Bronx (8c+)
Manon Hily, who was 8th in Innsbruck, included an ascent of Bronx (8c+) in Orgon - Canal as a preparation. Since making her World Cup debut in 2013, the 32-year-old has established herself as one of the sportโs top performers, with ten ascents graded 8c+ or harder, including her first 9a+ route last year. She also enjoyed her second-best overall World Cup season in 2025, finishing 10th in the standings. Her next challenge will be the World Cup event in Chamonix in three weeksโ time.
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1
020 June 2026
Ainhize Belar Barrutia ticks Obaba (9a)
Ainhize Belar Barrutia, with seven 9a and beyond under her harness, has done Obaba (9a) in Baltzola. "A style that's very different from what's usual at Baltzola, super awesome!!!"
(c) Mar Diฬaz Miranda
Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Actually, I put the quickdraws on this route a year ago, but for one reason or another, Iโve never tried it again. It has been a period of combining trainings and some rocks around home, and since the route has been dry in the last few weeks, I decided to try it!!
Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Actually, I put the quickdraws on this route a year ago, but for one reason or another, Iโve never tried it again. It has been a period of combining trainings and some rocks around home, and since the route has been dry in the last few weeks, I decided to try it!!
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30
020 June 2026
Pepa ล indel does Proces (9a)
Pepa ล indel, who last month sent his first 9b, has done Proces (9a) in Viลกลovรฉ. โWith wet holds and without kneepad. So many tries. Not my style at all. When I started trying it 3 years ago I was not able to do most of the moves then after so much time I did the harder variant with kneepad. Today I came full circle and did it honestly.โ
Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Proces is an old-school, groundbreaking route in Viลกลovรฉ (Slovakia) FAโd by Juraj Repฤรญk in 2004. Itโs the closest 9a to my home, and Iโve spent so much time on it.
Itโs an ultra-physical climb in a cave with good holds, huge moves, and a boulder problem in the middle and at the top. Last year, I fell six times on the last jump move, which is a complete comp-style dyno to a jug. I gave up on the move and first did the harder variant, called Procesor 9a/9a+, which skips the final jump. This year, I returned and promised to myself and to my dad that I would do it the original way, without a kneepad. On my first day back this year, I did it without a kneepad and with some of the holds being wet.
What are your summer plans?
I will start my summer trip in Frankenjura where I want to finish Black Label 9a from last year. Then my plans are still open but I will also definitely visit some crags in Dolomites:)
Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Proces is an old-school, groundbreaking route in Viลกลovรฉ (Slovakia) FAโd by Juraj Repฤรญk in 2004. Itโs the closest 9a to my home, and Iโve spent so much time on it.
Itโs an ultra-physical climb in a cave with good holds, huge moves, and a boulder problem in the middle and at the top. Last year, I fell six times on the last jump move, which is a complete comp-style dyno to a jug. I gave up on the move and first did the harder variant, called Procesor 9a/9a+, which skips the final jump. This year, I returned and promised to myself and to my dad that I would do it the original way, without a kneepad. On my first day back this year, I did it without a kneepad and with some of the holds being wet.
What are your summer plans?
I will start my summer trip in Frankenjura where I want to finish Black Label 9a from last year. Then my plans are still open but I will also definitely visit some crags in Dolomites:)
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16
020 June 2026
Sixth Consecutive Boulder Gold for Anraku
Sorato Anraku, who has won the first four Boulder World Cups of 2026 and the World Championship in 2025, secured the overall title by also winning in Innsbruck. Once again, the 19-year-old won all three rounds. In total, he has now won 17 World Cup events, including 10 in Lead.
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8
019 June 2026
Back-to-Back Win for Annie Sanders
Annie Sanders, who got the gold in Prague two weeks ago, won all three rounds in the Innsbruck World Cup. โInnsbruck is one of my favourite places, my European home, so to win gold here is really cool. I feel really good about my shape, I had a ton of fun out there on the mats, and I'm super psyched right now! I'll definitely enjoy this medal, have a nice rest day tomorrow and watch the boys, support Colin, before thinking about Lead. I'll get some sleep, chill, and maybe get some ice cream, they have good ice cream here!"
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3
0David Firnenburg has had a personal record day up at Gottardo sending Adularia (8C), Stairway to heaven sit (8B+) and Hazel Grace sit (8C).
The 31-year-old started out as a route and competition climber. He won a couple Euro Youth Cups and in 2016, he got the bronze in the Combined World Championships. By 2020, the German had climbed 21 routes graded 9a or harder. He later shifted his focus more toward bouldering, and in 2025 he completed his second and third 8C boulders. (c) Clem Lechaptois
Can you tell us more about your great sending day?
So, Andrea [Kรผmin] and I started the day early at Mรคtteli sector where Adaluria is located. These days you can find good conditions until around 12 a.m. We met our friend Marco Mรผller and later Nina Arthur and Clem Lechaptois joined us. Andrea worked the stand start and made decent progress. She made the heel hook move look easy on which I struggled the most coming from the sit start. Marco was the first to send Adaluria. Looked very in control and precise. I sent the stand start two weeks ago, so this was my first time trying from the sit. I quickly found my beta and went through the first part into the stand. However, I struggled with a right heel hook where you to place your finger precisely on a kind of mini horn in order to have enough space for the heel. After around 4 times falling there, the heel finally sticked and I didnโt fall at the last physical moves anymore. Back to back send with Marco! Great support from the crew!
Then we went on to the king line of the entire area, Stairway to heaven. It was crazy windy up there. Usually you wait until the sun is gone but it was sticky enough to try it in the sun. I quickly tried the climb two weeks ago but after half an hour we got rained out. This time I had no stress, worked the upper part on the rope, made some tick marks and then tried from the bottom. Alois Remund and Beni Blaser, two other good Swiss friends joined us. Again pretty good vibes! I mostly struggled with the first two left heel hooks on the slopy arete. Once they stayed on, I sent the problem. Such a nice mixture of physical compression, technical heel hooks, friction, height and good mental game!
Alois got us excited to try the sit with him. He had sent the stand before. Marco was actually trying Child of Hell (8C) just next to it but came over to us to join. He was again the first to send the sit of Stairway which motivated me to do the same. Again, he made it look really in control. Inspiring! Alois, Beni and I made shifts on the boulder. Alois and Beni also had promising tries. Funny and acrobatic how we flew off the arete onto the uneven landing underneath! Luckily, we had enough pads to make the climb feel safe despite its height.
The difficulty of the climb remains the same, the heel hooks. The sit adds four hand moves and two foot moves, though. I made progress try over try and then fought my way up to the top. Some power screams were needed because I started to feel tired. A couple of tries on Adaluria in the morning which consists of around 12 steep moves, more tries on Stairway stand afterwards (9 powerful moves) and then some more on the sit (15 moves). Actually I thought the day was over and that I would support Andrea working Hazel Grace.
At Hazel we teamed up with Nina and Clem again. A bit later Jorge Diaz-Rullo joined us. The boulder is the whole day in the sun and only climbable in the evening. Nina and Andrea worked the stand, the boys the sit. I sat down and had some snacks. I actually told myself to end the climbing day with a sweet success on Stairway sit and the other climb I had sent. But then I changed my mind and thought I should at least give it some tries because the conditions were good, my skin wasnโt too bad and I wanted to be very tired when sitting in the office next Monday morning๐ Watching the others climb made me excited, too. I had my first session on the stand the day before sending it. I knew how to do the upper part and in the end of the session I figured out how to do the moves from the sit. I had a good first go climbing into the stand and felt surprisingly good again. Maybe it was because of the nuts and chocolate I had eaten before. I just had to do the second move of the stand start a tiny bit differently coming from the sit. A bit more bouncy and dead-pointy. Thatโs what I did on my second try, felt good on the slot holds, didnโt need the intermediate for the cross move and strong on the last moves which are easier but hard enough to fall on every move. I was surprised standing on top. A bit surreal.
Overall, probably my best bouldering day so far when it comes to sending. A good mix of a motivated and supporting team, beautiful landscape, fresh air, beautiful lines and own ambitions. Also cool to see that I am still progressing after so many years of climbing. I am still very motivated to try hard and climb as much as possible. I also have the drive to discover new areas and travel when I find the time besides work. I am also healthy and didnโt face any big injuries in the past which is a gift. And Iโve got a loving girl friend and family which is the most amazing thing. Very grateful for all of that!
The 31-year-old started out as a route and competition climber. He won a couple Euro Youth Cups and in 2016, he got the bronze in the Combined World Championships. By 2020, the German had climbed 21 routes graded 9a or harder. He later shifted his focus more toward bouldering, and in 2025 he completed his second and third 8C boulders. (c) Clem Lechaptois
Can you tell us more about your great sending day?
So, Andrea [Kรผmin] and I started the day early at Mรคtteli sector where Adaluria is located. These days you can find good conditions until around 12 a.m. We met our friend Marco Mรผller and later Nina Arthur and Clem Lechaptois joined us. Andrea worked the stand start and made decent progress. She made the heel hook move look easy on which I struggled the most coming from the sit start. Marco was the first to send Adaluria. Looked very in control and precise. I sent the stand start two weeks ago, so this was my first time trying from the sit. I quickly found my beta and went through the first part into the stand. However, I struggled with a right heel hook where you to place your finger precisely on a kind of mini horn in order to have enough space for the heel. After around 4 times falling there, the heel finally sticked and I didnโt fall at the last physical moves anymore. Back to back send with Marco! Great support from the crew!
Then we went on to the king line of the entire area, Stairway to heaven. It was crazy windy up there. Usually you wait until the sun is gone but it was sticky enough to try it in the sun. I quickly tried the climb two weeks ago but after half an hour we got rained out. This time I had no stress, worked the upper part on the rope, made some tick marks and then tried from the bottom. Alois Remund and Beni Blaser, two other good Swiss friends joined us. Again pretty good vibes! I mostly struggled with the first two left heel hooks on the slopy arete. Once they stayed on, I sent the problem. Such a nice mixture of physical compression, technical heel hooks, friction, height and good mental game!
Alois got us excited to try the sit with him. He had sent the stand before. Marco was actually trying Child of Hell (8C) just next to it but came over to us to join. He was again the first to send the sit of Stairway which motivated me to do the same. Again, he made it look really in control. Inspiring! Alois, Beni and I made shifts on the boulder. Alois and Beni also had promising tries. Funny and acrobatic how we flew off the arete onto the uneven landing underneath! Luckily, we had enough pads to make the climb feel safe despite its height.
The difficulty of the climb remains the same, the heel hooks. The sit adds four hand moves and two foot moves, though. I made progress try over try and then fought my way up to the top. Some power screams were needed because I started to feel tired. A couple of tries on Adaluria in the morning which consists of around 12 steep moves, more tries on Stairway stand afterwards (9 powerful moves) and then some more on the sit (15 moves). Actually I thought the day was over and that I would support Andrea working Hazel Grace.
At Hazel we teamed up with Nina and Clem again. A bit later Jorge Diaz-Rullo joined us. The boulder is the whole day in the sun and only climbable in the evening. Nina and Andrea worked the stand, the boys the sit. I sat down and had some snacks. I actually told myself to end the climbing day with a sweet success on Stairway sit and the other climb I had sent. But then I changed my mind and thought I should at least give it some tries because the conditions were good, my skin wasnโt too bad and I wanted to be very tired when sitting in the office next Monday morning๐ Watching the others climb made me excited, too. I had my first session on the stand the day before sending it. I knew how to do the upper part and in the end of the session I figured out how to do the moves from the sit. I had a good first go climbing into the stand and felt surprisingly good again. Maybe it was because of the nuts and chocolate I had eaten before. I just had to do the second move of the stand start a tiny bit differently coming from the sit. A bit more bouncy and dead-pointy. Thatโs what I did on my second try, felt good on the slot holds, didnโt need the intermediate for the cross move and strong on the last moves which are easier but hard enough to fall on every move. I was surprised standing on top. A bit surreal.
Overall, probably my best bouldering day so far when it comes to sending. A good mix of a motivated and supporting team, beautiful landscape, fresh air, beautiful lines and own ambitions. Also cool to see that I am still progressing after so many years of climbing. I am still very motivated to try hard and climb as much as possible. I also have the drive to discover new areas and travel when I find the time besides work. I am also healthy and didnโt face any big injuries in the past which is a gift. And Iโve got a loving girl friend and family which is the most amazing thing. Very grateful for all of that!
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36
017 June 2026
Noah Wheeler ticks two 8C+โ
Noah Wheeler, who the last month sent his third 9A boulder, has in just three days up at Upper Chaos sent two 8C+ boulders. In the VL ranking game, the 23-year-old is the runner-up after Zach Galla but just ahead of Adam Ondra.
Brace for the Cure (8C+): โ2 sessions this year - tried a sesh or two last year with no chance on the full line. Jade move is atleast the 2nd hardest move on this line. Stuck it maybe 15 times in a row in order to send. Contender for one of the most purely finger-strength dependent climbs in the world!โ
Creature From the Black Lagoon (8C+): โMaybe an hour total on the boulder with 3 start rips over 2 days (was mostly trying Brace). Fell on the topout twice which made the double-kneebar assisted sent even sweeter! A good benchmark for the very low end of the grade. Climbs amazingly.โ (c) Francois Lebeau
Can we have a longer write up of the ascents?
Tried Brace once last year in and was able to do all the moves, but with much pain in my fingers. Figured it would go as a 3+ sessions project this year. Came back and climbed into the V9/10 end move on my first session, falling on what felt like a like punt. That same session, I was hanging out with Austin Hoyt under the Creature cave and impromptu decided to pull on the crux sequence (generally considered 3/4 moves of V15 [8C]). To my surprise, I linked through it and into the stand.
The next session, I sent Brace after maybe 2 hours - longer than I wanted. I pulled on to Creature from the start and climbed all the way into the topout of the V11 [8A] stand pumping out to such a degree it did not feel like a punt at all. At that point it was too late and I was too tired to try again.
The next day I fell getting my foot up on the headwall in my first go, then sent my second. The crux sequence was so weirdly in my style that I never fell on it, so the climb did not feel too difficult. It was definitely an endurance end crux for me.
Brace for the Cure (8C+): โ2 sessions this year - tried a sesh or two last year with no chance on the full line. Jade move is atleast the 2nd hardest move on this line. Stuck it maybe 15 times in a row in order to send. Contender for one of the most purely finger-strength dependent climbs in the world!โ
Creature From the Black Lagoon (8C+): โMaybe an hour total on the boulder with 3 start rips over 2 days (was mostly trying Brace). Fell on the topout twice which made the double-kneebar assisted sent even sweeter! A good benchmark for the very low end of the grade. Climbs amazingly.โ (c) Francois Lebeau
Can we have a longer write up of the ascents?
Tried Brace once last year in and was able to do all the moves, but with much pain in my fingers. Figured it would go as a 3+ sessions project this year. Came back and climbed into the V9/10 end move on my first session, falling on what felt like a like punt. That same session, I was hanging out with Austin Hoyt under the Creature cave and impromptu decided to pull on the crux sequence (generally considered 3/4 moves of V15 [8C]). To my surprise, I linked through it and into the stand.
The next session, I sent Brace after maybe 2 hours - longer than I wanted. I pulled on to Creature from the start and climbed all the way into the topout of the V11 [8A] stand pumping out to such a degree it did not feel like a punt at all. At that point it was too late and I was too tired to try again.
The next day I fell getting my foot up on the headwall in my first go, then sent my second. The crux sequence was so weirdly in my style that I never fell on it, so the climb did not feel too difficult. It was definitely an endurance end crux for me.
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29
517 June 2026
Tyler Thompson does Martial Law (9a+)
Tyler Thompson has repeated Cameron Hรถrstโs Martial Law (9a+) in Mt. Charleston. โAfter falling a handful of times on the shared RP crux above the hole it felt just awesome to stick it. Ultimately I think knees, especially the one joining this route and AD dropped the intensity enough for me that Iโd suggest a 9a/+ biased off my experience. Certainly the hardest in the cave and a great endurance challenge!โ (c) James Lucas
Can you tell us more about the ascent and which route it shares the crux with?
Martial Law is an alternative start to Arrested Development (8c+) where you come in from the deepest part of the cave and join that route right at the start of the difficulty. Iโd say itโs around 14a [8b+] to get into the start and quite intense and tiring. I spent my first session just focused on the first bit of climbing and linking into AD. On my third session I made it through the crux of AD and on my fourth I fell on the shared redpoint crux, which comes after another kneebar but is super tricky and easy to drop. I had two more sessions falling high on the route before doing it on my 7th day.
What rebolting have you been involved in lately?
I had the opportunity to participate in a few rebolting days thanks to Arcteryx! First in Jilotepec, Mexico and more recently in the NRG where NRAC is doing an extensive rebolting effort. I only did one working day there where I got to help put fresh hardware in an FA of mine which had 30 year old bolts. It was a great learning experience and I definitely plan to do more in the future!
Can you tell us more about the ascent and which route it shares the crux with?
Martial Law is an alternative start to Arrested Development (8c+) where you come in from the deepest part of the cave and join that route right at the start of the difficulty. Iโd say itโs around 14a [8b+] to get into the start and quite intense and tiring. I spent my first session just focused on the first bit of climbing and linking into AD. On my third session I made it through the crux of AD and on my fourth I fell on the shared redpoint crux, which comes after another kneebar but is super tricky and easy to drop. I had two more sessions falling high on the route before doing it on my 7th day.
What rebolting have you been involved in lately?
I had the opportunity to participate in a few rebolting days thanks to Arcteryx! First in Jilotepec, Mexico and more recently in the NRG where NRAC is doing an extensive rebolting effort. I only did one working day there where I got to help put fresh hardware in an FA of mine which had 30 year old bolts. It was a great learning experience and I definitely plan to do more in the future!
Read more
16
1Favorites
Janja Garnbret has added another milestone to her remarkable climbing career by becoming the first woman to climb Bibliographie (9b+) in Cรฉรผse, one of the hardeโฆ
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48Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
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13Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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81Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
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69Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโฆ
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