Simon Lorenzi does Permanent Midnight Low (8C+) and flashes 8B+

Simon Lorenzi, with four 9A’s to his name, has done Permanent midnight low (8C+) and flashed Compass North (8B+) both established by Clement Lechaptois in Fionnay. The 28-year-old Belgian has been an active competition climber for 15 years and in 2022 he won one Euro Cup.

Few male athletes dare to speak openly about their doubts and struggles. Simon does so with authenticity and transparency. After a difficult period – failing to qualify for the Paris 2024 Olympics, a challenging trip to the US (where he nevertheless climbed his fourth 9A) – he went through a deep questioning. In an interview with Vertige Media, he opened up about his burnout and loss of meaning in sport, speaking about symptoms of depression and a feeling of loneliness in his pursuit of performance.

Today, Simon climbs free from pressure and outside expectations. He has established new routines and methods to combine performance and enjoyment: performance is no longer a solitary pursuit. He surrounds himself with his partner, friends, and manager, and shares his experience with other climbers. Recently, he supported Jules Marchaland in his flash of The Power of Now (8C), a boulder Simon had opened a few years earlier, by showing him key beta and giving him confidence. This perfectly reflects his new mindset: rediscovering joy in effort, in hard projects, beautiful lines, and technical moves, while seeing each challenge as an opportunity to grow – not only as a climber but also as a human being. His energy and optimism make his obsession truly inspiring.