
25 September 2025
Loic Zehani FAโs Fubar (9a)
Loic Zehani, who the last ten years has put up 51 routes 9a to 9b, has made the FA of Fubar (9a) in Les Branches. โAmazing big overhang. Almost all the 8c+ bolted by Christophe Bernard ( to the right of La bouga ) then finish to the left with 12 hard and nice moves. After falling two times at the very top yesterday today was the good one. So happy to climb the first 9a of this fantastic crag.โ
Can you tell us more about the first ascent?
Itโs an extension to an 8c+ (which I climbed in 2022 and still hasnโt been repeated) that ends at the end of my big project (equipped by my father and which could potentially be a 9b+). This summer I made great progress on the project, but as I felt I probably wouldnโt have the time this season, I devoted the last three sessions to climbing the 9a, which involves a major endurance effort in the second part and bouldering sections interspersed with rests on the first part of the route. Itโs the first 9a route in the sector, but Jean Marc Oberli and my father have begun to develop the caveโs 9 potential over the last two years.
Can you tell us more about the first ascent?
Itโs an extension to an 8c+ (which I climbed in 2022 and still hasnโt been repeated) that ends at the end of my big project (equipped by my father and which could potentially be a 9b+). This summer I made great progress on the project, but as I felt I probably wouldnโt have the time this season, I devoted the last three sessions to climbing the 9a, which involves a major endurance effort in the second part and bouldering sections interspersed with rests on the first part of the route. Itโs the first 9a route in the sector, but Jean Marc Oberli and my father have begun to develop the caveโs 9 potential over the last two years.
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Loic Zehani has done his first 8c, Le blues de la belle in Orgon which took him ten days to do. "It suites my style perfectly, little holds on 30ยฐ (around) overhang. The start is super hard with little pockets and small foott holds. After it is easier but you can fall under the anchor, if you do an โฆ
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