Solveig Korherr has done her tenth 8c the last twelve months, Idée fixe in La Saume. In the 8a ranking game, the 23-year-old is #2. (c) Jon Shen

"Idée fixe was a great power endurance test piece on some tiny crimps and side pulls. Since I knew the upper part of this route already from an 8b that linked into it, I was psyched to just have a look at the rest of the line. The middle crux felt like it could fit me but it was still very hard. I wasn’t sure if I still had enough power endurance to link the hard section after having done more volume climbing and multi-pitching in the last few weeks. But after some beta refinement and perseverance, I was super happy to make a few good tries and finally being able to climb all the way up to the top! In the end, it took me five days."

Adam Ondra flashed Supercrackinette in 2018 which was the first first and only 9a+ flash in the world. In 2012, he had made the first 9a flash by Southern Smoke direct.

Jon Glassberg from Louder Than Eleven is possibly the only climber, together with his wife Jessica Talley, beside the IFSC official Daniel Gajda, that have gotten four days photographer accreditation to the Olympics. 8a will share some of their pictures during the competition. The 37-year-old just made his first 8C by doing The Nest and with 191 cm and 86 kg, he might be the biggest boulderer who have reached that grade.

Audrey Miller has done her first 8c, Kill Em All at Wolf Point after six tries over two weekends. "Last go best go, pocket slinged my way up this amazing route. Such a nice line. Sometimes a pre-climb laugh attack, a new low point, and a last Hail Mary effort are all it takes to get you to the top! Thankful for an amazing crew to keep the psych up, and a stellar line to throw myself at. Until next time Wyoming!"

What is your climbing background?
I grew up competing until I moved to Utah, then decided to focus my efforts on real rock. This year has been the most rewarding for me, as I’ve adapted my skills for outdoor climbing, and seen a lot more success than in the couple of years prior. I can’t get enough of the rock out west! (her best result in a Youth Worldchampion is #12)

By looking at the registrations for Villars, we can see that most of the Olympians will not participate. Out of the big names, only Jakob Schubert, Alex Megos and Janja Garnbret will take part.

Giuliano Cameroni has done yet another stunning FA, Hazel Grace 8C/+ in Gottardo, which adds an obvious sit start to the 8B+ stand he made the FA of in 2017. The 24-year-old running the Mellow Youtube channel has previously done eight FA 8C and harder. Here is part of his Insta comments: "First day of the season, what a day! A huge mountain of snow was surrounding the bloc, making it magical. Conditions were perfect and no pressure was involved. Checked out the moves, rested for half an hour and climbed it first try. Great moment where everything connected."


How many sessions did it take and what about the slash grade?
I tried it for a long time last summer and the summer before, probably around 30 sessions in total. This year I felt stronger, conditions were perfect and surprisingly it connected first go from the start. Took so long to figure out a very tricky heel hook and all the positions needed to stay on the wall. Really hard to give an opinion about the grade because there is a super tricky heel hook. Physically it felt 8C but technically 8C+. Could be both, let's see what other repetitors think.

Seb Bouin made the FA of Beyond Integral 9b/+ at Pic St-Loup last October commenting in his scorecard. "A mega line, a first 9a+ part to finish into 8A+ boulder problem. I tried many MANY times. From the impossibility to do the moves to a send..."

Marco Müller, who previously has done two 9a's, has done El Molinero 8c+ in Gimmelwald. The crag is located at 1600m and the closest city is Interlaken which is 20 km away.

"First, you take a cable car from Stechelberg to Gimmelwald and then hike approx for 45min. You can walk up, up it adds another 45min of hiking ;) There are around 30 routes, 25 of them above 8a and 4 of them 9a's.

It's a powerful and steep route with no rests. The crux is a cool jump where both feet cut loose, after that, you just rush to the top hoping the forearm pump doesn't kick in. I could climb this route in my fourth session, one last season and three this year."

Jonathan Siegrist, who previously has done 55 routes 9a to 9b, has done the FA of Black Hole Sun in 5G. This was the 35-year-old's 17th FA 9a and harder.

" I bolted this route at the end of last season - in October. It is next to my route, Nu World. This year June was insanely hot in Southern Nevada! So I was quite nervous I wouldn't finish it before the full on summer.

One of my harder FA's and also one of my best I'd say. Intense strength endurance for the first 60 feet or so and then a 60 foot 8b+ on top of that. Quite hard at 9a, felt harder than some 9a+ to me, but hard seems to be the theme up here and I'm sick of grading stuff so this will do for now. Next week I will get another big project cleaned up and ready for the fall season...”