28 July 2021
Tokyo Olympic village preparation
Amanda Watts, partner and sports dietitian to Olympian Tom O'Halloron, has reported on Insta about how the athletes can prepare the last five days living in the Olympic village. We asked Amanda if she could give more details and here is what she reported.
"1. Teams could set up training camps before they head into the village. They are a great option but required being able to cover costs of hotel quarantine while in the training camp and daily Covid testing, venue hire etc. So access to these depends on how much funding a country has for sport climbing. And what athletes want to do also.
2. Athletes are in the village for the minimum amount of time possible. I think its five days before and you could request two days earlier if you were coming from a country currently in winter, to have two extra days to get used to the heat. You have access to a strength training gym and your own hang boards etc only for those two extra days.
3. The Australians Tom OโHalloran and Oceania McKenzie arrived on the 27th of July. For all climbing athletes, the official training days and access to the climbing wall, warm-up bouldering wall, warm-up speed wall etc start on the evening of 29th July. They have five evening sessions on the wall before the comp. Everything has been organised to minimise Covid risk, take care of the athletes and give time the time they need to train. The bouldering warm-up wall is pretty huge, 20m wide!
4. The climbing athletes in the village are recovering from the travel, getting in the zone, going for a run, having a light finger board, resting, watching other sports on the TV viewing areas, eating food and getting themselves sorted for the practice days and comp days."
It should be noted that team USA did bring a portable wall that they have set up in their Olympic village.
"1. Teams could set up training camps before they head into the village. They are a great option but required being able to cover costs of hotel quarantine while in the training camp and daily Covid testing, venue hire etc. So access to these depends on how much funding a country has for sport climbing. And what athletes want to do also.
2. Athletes are in the village for the minimum amount of time possible. I think its five days before and you could request two days earlier if you were coming from a country currently in winter, to have two extra days to get used to the heat. You have access to a strength training gym and your own hang boards etc only for those two extra days.
3. The Australians Tom OโHalloran and Oceania McKenzie arrived on the 27th of July. For all climbing athletes, the official training days and access to the climbing wall, warm-up bouldering wall, warm-up speed wall etc start on the evening of 29th July. They have five evening sessions on the wall before the comp. Everything has been organised to minimise Covid risk, take care of the athletes and give time the time they need to train. The bouldering warm-up wall is pretty huge, 20m wide!
4. The climbing athletes in the village are recovering from the travel, getting in the zone, going for a run, having a light finger board, resting, watching other sports on the TV viewing areas, eating food and getting themselves sorted for the practice days and comp days."
It should be noted that team USA did bring a portable wall that they have set up in their Olympic village.
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