Laura Rogora has had an extraordinary day in Gole del Melfa, onsighting Leoni alfa (8c), making the FA of L’Ultimo Ruggito (9a) on her second go, and finishing by climbing Lo squalo di macerata L2 (8c).

Including four previous 8c onsights as well as one 8c+, the 25-year-old Italian is a contender having the third-best onsight track record, behind only Adam Ondra and Alex Megos. (c) Andrea Donato

Can you tell us more about your climbing around Rome?
I was in Rome for a few days and I took the opportunity to go and try some new lines that have been born in recent years. L’ultimo ruggito was a project bolted by Roberto Limetta Podii which is the direct exit of Leoni alfa. Before trying the project then I did an onsight try on Leoni alfa and it all went smoothly up the chain. I then took a try to see then movements of the direct exit which is a really fantastic line, after a first part of physical resistance on tufas and blobs start 10 meters at crimps with not really hard moves but very sustained where you risk to fall until the chain. To end the day I climbed lo squalo di Macerata which has a first 8b chain then a boulder and then joins the exit of Leoni alfa.

Yesterday Limetta took me to La Cueva to try another new project there. The last Boulder is maybe too hard for me but if any strong climber is looking for some new hard lines it is defenetly a good candidate. Moreover there are a lot of hard and beautiful lines around Rome which I freed in the past years and are still waiting for a first repetition. Since I have very particular characteristics and I find hard to give an objective grade I would be glad to know what other people think about them.

How many 8c and beyond are still unrepeated?
Around 10.

What is your next plan?
I am going to Saint Léger for some days next week then a bit of rest and then I will start training.

Tereza Širůčková has been on a trip to Osp/Misja Pec where she, among other routes, has done Strelovod (8c) and Corrida (8c). The 22-year-old started the World Cup season by being 14th and 16th and this summer she sent her second 8c+..

Can you tell us more about your trip to Osp?
After the World Championships, I was really looking forward to one thing – piece of rock! And after a long time, Osp was exactly what I needed. I was excited that there wouldn’t be icicles under the wall anymore and that I could finally enjoy some sunshine and comfy weather. (Though honestly, it was really warm for climbing – even for me – so I wouldn’t exactly call it “good conditions” 😅).

I went there with a clear goal in my mind: to finish some of my old projects. Routes I had tried years ago but never really worked properly — maybe I only had one attempt or never even figured out the moves. So I had three main lines on my list: Corrida, Kaj ti je Deklica? and Lahko noč Irena.

I kind of believed they could be possible, but I didn’t want to put too much pressure on myself. After all the stress from competitions, I just wanted to climb, enjoy the rock, and feel that freedom again.

On the first day, I quickly went through the moves on Corrida and managed to send it on the second go. Later that same day, I started working on Deklica, and even had a solid go — but I fell just before the top, completely tired. I finished the day by checking out the moves in Irena.

The next day was pretty special. I sent both Deklica and Irena quite fast and realized I had already achieved everything I came for. Since we only had half a day of climbing left for next day, I decided to try Marjetica. I still felt some power, so I gave it a try — and somehow sent it! I knew I wanted to come back the following weekend, so I spent the last half day preparing Strelovod — just figuring out the beginning and planning for the next session. But then I thought, “Okay, I’ll just give it one go.” And… it somehow happened. I clipped the chains. It was emotional, totally unexpected, and honestly, I couldn’t really believe it. It made me incredibly happy — and I have to say, I’m truly proud of my ticklist from this trip. ❤️

Possibly you could share a portrait picture if you do not have one from the route?
I’m not really sure how it’s supposed to look like, so I’ll send you more and you can choose and the last one will be the definition of the word “Portrait” 😆💅

Alessio Voghera, who climbed his first 8b+ in 2022, continues progressing by one grade per year with the ascent of Trip tik tonik (9a) in Gorges du Loup. (c) Nicolò Vece

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I tried the route for the first time at the end of June, and I was close to sending it at the end of July — but unfortunately, a hold in the crux broke. I completely changed the beta in the crux, and it worked, even though it was harder.

In August and September, it was too warm, but this Saturday, the conditions were perfect. The process was both a physical and mental battle. I worked on the route during weekends, even though it’s not close to Turin. But with the help of good friends and my girlfriend Claudia [Ghisolfi], I was able to realize my dream!

We’re running a survey to explore how climbers use digital tools in their gym experience, from self-check-in and 24/7 access to managing memberships and tickets.

Your input helps gyms understand what today’s climbers really need and improve the experience for everyone.

The results will be featured in the Climbing Gym Gear Guide, coming out this November.

As a thank you, you’ll receive a code to unlock 1 month of Vertical-Life Premium outdoor topos on our app.

Take the survey >>>

Luke Gerhardt has done Sleepwalker (8C+) on his fifth session and thinks it is 8C/+. (c) Anna Kelley

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I opted for newer beta where you skip the intermediate pinch out right (completely different from Zander’s beta). This turned the crux into one very low percentage move to the sloper. Using the pinch felt much higher percentage in iso but when coming from bottom the friction would feel too bad. I think with better conditions (It was 64 [18] degrees when I sent😂) and a little more time to learn the moves I would actually prefer to use the pinch as it would be more reliable. In total it took me 5 sessions to send sleepwalker, 3 sessions this trip. I’ll definitely be coming back to work lower in the future.

As for grade, I could see v15 [8C] being a possibility. I don’t have too strong of an opinion especially because I’ve only ever done one v15. Beta has definitely been more refined since jimmys first ascent. Height and conditions play a huge role on this boulder aswell. At the end of the day it’s one of the sickest, hardest lines in America and I’m psyched.

Yannick Flohé, who earlier this summer made the first ever 8C flash, has repeated Markus Bock Corona (9a+) in Frankenjura. The 26-year-old German has been a successful competition climber since 2014 and this year he was sixth overall in the Lead World Cup. .

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
It wasn’t a big project, I went once in May and it was way to warm but I made it through the crux but slipped in the easy part. Never came back but sent it last trip pretty quickly after slipping again on the hold due do wet holds 😅

What are your next plans?
I want to climb Excalibur (9b+) and focus more on training again. Maybe some bouldering in Ticino but no plans yet.

Ainhize Belar Barrutia, who last year did her first 9a+, has sent Harroputza (9a) in Egino. (c) Ekaitz Anda

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Harroputza is a route I’ve wanted to try since last summer. I tried a bit of it while coming down from Celedón (which is right next to it), and I really liked it. So this year, it was my goal in La Leze. I’ve gone a few months without climbing very hard and have been getting back into shape along the way, but I’ve really enjoyed it!

What are your autumn and winter plans?
Now I want to train a bit and go to Cataluña, with the main objective of trying some routes I already tried last year: Victimas Perez (9a), Victimes del futur (9a), Ciudad de dios (9a). These are some that really motivate me. I also want to climb in Siurana and Oliana.

Lovro Črep, an IFSC competition climber with two 8c+’, from 2022, under his belt, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč.

Can you tell us more about your ascent?
So psyched to join the 9a club with this legendary route, the first Slovenian 9a, FA by Jure Golob. I still can’t believe that one of my childhood dreams has finally come true! On the last day of last year’s season, I was really close to send it, but got completely pumped near the top. Then came the off-season and after that, I either couldn’t find the right time or my endurance wasn’t where it needed to be to give it proper tries.

After this year’s comp season, I finally had more time for rock and I already knew what the goal was. Two weeks ago, I gave it my first few goes and quickly realized I wasn’t in my best shape for it. That fired me up even more to train hard in the gym. Each session I felt stronger and more confident, so I knew the send was coming soon.

Yesterday was the day, after nine tries over the past two weeks. When I got to the crag, I wasn’t really sure if it was going to be the send day or if I still needed a bit more training. After my second “warm-up” route, which was actually an 8c to get properly activated for the project, I felt surprisingly good and started thinking, hmm, maybe today’s the day.

Once I started climbing, I felt solid on every move. Even the last bad rest before the big crux, where I had fallen on most of my previous tries, felt much better this time, so I got super psyched for the rest of the route. Since I could recover more there, the crux felt totally under control, and I still had enough in the tank to push through to the top with endurance and consistent movement.

What is your climbing background?
I started climbing when I was seven, inspired by my dad who introduced me to the sport. Soon after, I began competing. First at regional events, then also at national and international competitions.

I was part of the Slovenian youth national team for several years and achieved some solid results at European Cups and World Championships. The last two years, I’m also a member of the senior Slovenian national team, although I haven’t had any standout results yet.

I’ve always loved climbing on rock and whenever time allows, I love heading outdoors to different crags and working on new projects.! Psyched for more to come 😈

Laura Rogora, with over 30 routes 9a and beyond under her belt, has sent Il terzo occhio (9a) in Arco. (c) Crimp Films

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
We had bolted the route with Adam Ondra and Stefano Ghisolfi 3 years ago, then in 2023 Stefano did the FA. Back from Korea I went back to try it and in recent days I went very close to the chain several times but I broke some feet so I couldn't do it until yesterday.

Leo Bøe repeated Adam Ondra’s Change (9b+) last week, after a solid 45-minute fight. The Norwegian Lead Champion six times in the last seven years has made rapid progress since sending his first 9a in 2023 and last September, he completed Change P1 (9a+) as his first 9a+. ”My heart goes out to Johanna Jupin for the countless belays and hours of believing in me when I doubted myself. None of this would have happened without you 🤍🫀. (c) Doug McConnell

How was your first experience with Change and how many sessions have you put in, in total? Any special training indoors?
The moves suited me so well in the first pitch and it seemed I dicovered a new beta that nobody else has been doing. It involves grabbing the arete to your right and it gives you a strong compression to release the kneebar in the crux. Back then the season was ending and I wasn’t really expecting to climb any more routes.

I have lost count of the amount of session, but in total I spent around 2,5 months on the route alone. I didn’t do any specific training for the route, I just went straight to trying it over and over.

What was it in the end that made the trick?
The trick to sending was a combination of many things, but having the right mindset was crucial. I got to a point where I was tired mentally after so many days on the route. It was even hard to walk up to the cave, but a change of mindset helped alot. I started focusing on the battle and not the result. I decided to be happy with my performance as long as I tried my hardest. I was able to just focus on the moves and trying hard and it got me all the way to the top.

How much differ the beta compared to Ondra’s original beta?
The beta I used, and perhaps everyone else have used since Adams ascent is very different. He didn’t use kneepads and almost didn’t place any kneebars at all. The first boulderproblem has a right kneebar that takes alot of load of your upper body, but the hard part comes when you have to release the kneebar. He graded the boulder 8B+ and nowadays it’s more around 8A+. I believe the 2nd pitch had some improvements with kneepads, but not as major as the start.

How do you mentally prepare for an attempt and what goes through your mind up there in up-side-down land?
It’s a tough route mentally cause you have many good rests where you get the time to think alot. You start thinking about how you’re feeling compared to previous tries, and how the conditions are feeling, etc. I just tried my best to shut negative thoughts out and boost my confidence by giving myself positive affirmations. It was also very boosting metnally to have someone I trusted, consistently belay and cheer for me throughout. I can’t thank my girlfriend Johanna enough for the support and it was an incredible feeling to reach the top as a team. I am proud of my climbing and also very relieved to have done Change before the season ended!