Han Seuran does Catharsis (8B+)

Han Seuran, who last autumn successfully climbed Puro Dreaming (8c+), has now, after only six sessions, completed Catharsis (8B+) at Shiobara. Back in 2011, Tomoko Ogawa sent it and made history as the first woman to reach 8B+. The Dai Koyamada line is a 10-meter roof featuring around 25 moves, and Seuran has shared an Instagram video of her ascent.

The Korean climber is a former competition athlete who reached the finals of the Lead World Cup three times in 2011.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
It was my husband [9b climber Hyunbin Min] who suggested this route, saying Japan would be a good project since it’s close to Korea. When I first saw the video, I realized the moves were exactly the kind I enjoy and do well with. So I decided that even if it took me several years, I would take on the challenge — and this time, I chose Shiobara.

At first, it was so difficult that I had to break down each move one by one. I wasn’t even sure if I could link them together. My initial goal was just to connect the moves, but day by day, the holds started to feel better. Gradually, the moves began to feel easier too.

Two days before returning to Korea, I achieved my best attempt yet. That made me feel a bit impatient — I really wanted to send it this time.

The day before I left, around 2 p.m., I fell just before the top. After a two-hour rest, the sun had set and the humidity rose, making me anxious and less confident. But I kept telling myself, “I can do this. I will do this.” And on my final attempt, I finally sent it.