12 November 2025

Chaehyun Seo ticks Papichulo (9a+) and much more

Chaehyun Seo, who was runner up in the Lead World Cup in 2025, has completed Papichulo (9a+), Joe Blau (8c+), two 8cโ€™s and a flash of El Gran Blau (8b+) in Oliana. The 22-year-old won four WCโ€™s in 2019 and became World Champion in 2021. The next year she sent La Rambla (9a+).

Can you tell us more about your trip and the process behind Papichulo?
I went to Santa Linya last year, but there was too much rain, so I couldnโ€™t climb at all. I accidentally(?) ended up in Oliana and tried Papichulo, but it was also super foggy and humid, so I just worked out all the moves, and the trip was done.

So I came again this year to work on the route. I arrived here on 10/31, and on my fifth climbing day, I felt quite good, but I didnโ€™t have full certainty.

On the sixth climbing day, my first try was not so bad, but not enough. On the second try, I suddenly almost got the last hold of the final crux, and I thought I still had enough energy.

I knew it would be hard to send it on the third try because I had already gone to the top twice in one day, but I really wanted to try again. So I tried at 5:20, almost after sunset. I felt less powerful than on the second try, but I focused on my breathingโ€”and I made it!

How long will you stay and what is next?
I will leave here on 11/28, and I want to try Mamichula. I canโ€™t predict how it will go ๐Ÿ˜…, and I also want to try many other 9a+ routes.

What are your competition and outdoor plans for 2026?
Mm, I think Iโ€™ll focus on lead, but I will also compete in boulders too, but not all! First comps, outdoors for vacation like this year.
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