Jonathan Siegrist FA’s Samadhi (9a)

Jonathan Siegrist has done the first ascent of Samadhi (9a) in The Pagoda. The 40-year-old has now sent 97 routes 9a and beyond out of which 12 only the last year. (c) Ryan White

Can you give us the full story from finding the line, bolting and sending it?
I found and started developing this area last fall. Right away I was super psyched because of how unique and high quality the rock and features were. I put in a bunch of work last year and then as soon as it warmed up enough I was back this spring. This line in particular looked like it could be impossible from the ground but when I got closer I could see just enough holds, all really bad - but the rock was excellent and so interesting. The first several days I didn't even do all of the moves but eventually I learned the body positions and started to trust my feet a bit better.

The meat of the route is only around 20 moves but every move is hard and there is no rest. I was struggling a bit to make progress with two very hard sections but could feel that a breakthrough was coming - to my big surprise the breakthrough was nailing both hard parts on the next try and sending the route! It has to be one of the best routes in this grade range I have ever bolted. It's just hard not to love climbing on such perfect rock.