Janja Garnbret was the big favourite coming into the Olympics and delivered just like she has been doing the last few years, winning in both Bouldering and Lead. Runner-ups were Miho Nonaka and Akiyo Noguchi from Japan, who did her last competition after a very impressive 17(!!) years international competition career. As the lead qualification winner, Chaehyun Seo, who has beaten Janja in five out of their seven competitions, began her climb, there was a big drama about who was going to get the bronze medal. At one point, Jessica Pilz had the bronze but then Seo surpassed her and Noguchi was back on the podium, unless Seo would beat Garnbret, in which case the Korean would get the bronze.

#4 was the new Speed World record holder Aleksandra Miroslaw (POL) having been beaten by Akiyo in two out of the three disciplines. Noteworthy is also that in practice, Miroslaw lost her bronze due to countback in bouldering.

Like in the men's final, the Lead route was great, while the boulders were too hard. The camera work and direction was again not good with many distracting close-ups. On the other hand, the Eurosport commentator did an excellent job, including explaining all the possible multiplication outcomes live.

1. Janja Garnbret 5 * 1 * 1 = 5 (c) Jon Glassberg/Louder Than 11
2. Miho Nonaka 3 * 3 * 5 = 45
3. Akiyo Noguchi 4 * 4 * 4 = 64
4. Aleksandra Miroslaw 1 * 8 * 8 = 64
5. Brooke Raboutou 7 * 2 * 6 = 84
6. Anouck Jaubert 2 * 6 * 7 = 84
7. Jessica Pilz 6 * 5 * 3 = 90
8. Chaehyoun Seo 8 * 7 * 2 = 112

The screenshot is from Olympics.com. If the ranking in the lead stage is the same as in lead qualifications, then the medals go to Garnbret, Nonaka and Seo, see below. This is also true if the order of the athletes is the same and Garnbret places 2nd or 3rd. If Janja places first and everyone else's order is the same, Miroslaw replaces Seo on the podium. Jessy Pilz can get a medal (silver) if she wins the lead stage. Nonaka will get a medal if she places 6th. Brooke Raboutou probably needs a third place in Lead to take a medal (along with Nonaka and Garnbret).
1 Garnbret Janja (SLO) 5*1 -- 5
2 Miroslaw Aleksandra (POL) 1*8 -- 8
3 Nonaka Miho (JPN) 3 *3 -- 9
4 Jaubert Anouck (FRA) 2*6 -- 12
5 Raboutou Brooke (USA) 7 *2 -- 14
6 Noguchi Akiyo (JPN) 4*4 -- 16
7 Pilz Jessica (AUT) 6 *5 -- 30
8 Seo Chaehyun (KOR) 8*7 -- 56

Janja Garnbret, who flashed all four problems in the qualification, continued doing the first two in a total of 3 attempts in the final. No one did another top, and so Garnbret secured another Bouldering win. On the third and last boulder she got the zone on her first attempt and then she retired after her second try. Brooke Raboutou (USA) was runner up and was actually the only one being close to the Top of the first two boulders. Third was Miho Nonaka (JPN) with two zones. Akiyo Noguchi and Jessica Pilz finished fourth and fifth. French speed specialist Anouck Jaubert was ranked sixth, after getting the first zone on her second try, ahead of Seo and Miroslaw. Complete results

1. Janja Garnbret SLO 2T3z (c) Jon Glassberg/Louder Than 11
2. Brooke Raboutou USA 3z
3. Miho Nonaka JPN 2z
4. Akiyo Noguchi JPN 2z
5. Jessica Pilz AUT 2z
6. Anouck Jaubert FRA 1z
7. Chaehyun Seo KOR 0z
8. Aleksandra Miroslaw POL 0z

Ranking after 2/3 stages
1 Garnbret Janja (SLO) 5*1 -- 5
2 Miroslaw Aleksandra (POL) 1*8 -- 8
3 Nonaka Miho (JPN) 3 *3 -- 9
4 Jaubert Anouck (FRA) 2*6 -- 12
5 Raboutou Brooke (USA) 7 *2 -- 14
6 Noguchi Akiyo (JPN) 4*4 -- 16
7 Pilz Jessica (AUT). 6 *5 -- 30
8 Seo Chaehyun (KOR) 8*7 -- 56
If the ranking in the lead stage is the same as in lead qualifications, then the medals go to Garnbret, Nonaka and Seo. This is also true if the order of the athletes is the same and Garnbret places 2nd or 3rd. If Janja places first and everyone else's order is the same, Miroslaw replaces Seo on the podium. Jessy Pilz can get a medal (silver) if she wins the lead stage. Nonaka will get a medal if she places 6th. (Corrected the article re. Garbrets attempts on the first problem)

Aleksandra Miroslaw delivered a great Speed performance, setting a new World and Olympic Record in the final race against Anouck Jaubert (FRA). It was a tight race in which Jaubert had a small initial advantage, before Miroslaw passed her. As Miroslaw hit the top pad, Jaubert slipped. The Japanese representatives Miho Nonaka and Akiyo Noguchi ranked 3rd and 4th respectively. Janja Garnbret won her last two races and finished in fifth place. Jessica Pilz finished 6th. Brooke Raboutou narrowly lost to Garnbret in the second race, and finished 7th, ahead of Seo Chaehyun. (c) Jon Glassberg/Louder Than 11

Combined Final Results
1 Miroslaw Aleksandra
2 Jaubert Anouck
3 Nonaka Miho
4 Noguchi Akiyo
5 Garnbret Janja
6 Pilz Jessica
7 Raboutou Brooke
8 Seo Chaehyun

Follow the live scoring on Olympics.com as well as stay updated on the calculation of the results throughout the day. IFSC has put together a list Where to watch Sport Climbing at the Olympic Games 2020

In Germany, ARD Sportschau is streaming live.
ZDF is also streaming live.
In Austria, ORF and ORF Sport Plus is streaming live. Katharina Saurwein is commentating.
In Poland player.pl has a Eurosport package with full Games streaming.
In France, France.tv is showing climbing.
In Czech Republic, Ceska Televize is showing climbing.
In Europe, a Eurosport Player subscription also allows you to choose the sport you want to watch (ca. 7€/month) and can be purchased in most countries.
Please post in the comments what the best options in your country are and we will update this news item.

(c) Jon Glassberg/Louder Than 11
“ It's incredible!! I succeeded in winning a medal at the Olympic Games! Today we experienced sports history in real time - the first time medals in sport climbing were to be awarded at the Olympic Games.

I set for myself the goal of winning a medal early on. I always articulated this goal, and worked hard and meticulously towards it over the past few years. With this goal in mind, I traveled to Tokyo on the 26th of July and went into qualifications on Tuesday; I achieved two personal bests in the speed competition and won in lead climbing. With this goal in mind, I also went to the Aomi Urban Sports Park today.

Along with Tomoa Narasaki from Japan and Adam Ondra from the Czech Republic, all of the favorites to win were there to fight for the podium. I wanted to show that I am one of the best in the sport.

After an incredibly exhausting day, I have now actually achieved this ambitious goal. I still can't fully process it - so much went against me today.

The placements in speed were unexpectedly distributed; Bassa Mawem, the French speed climber, didn't start due to injury; Tomoa didn't take first place. While I was happy with my performance in bouldering, the result didn't reflect that. I'd almost given up hope of a medal.

During lead climbing, my disappointment was already so great that I channeled all that frustration onto the wall. I had to give everything I had, I knew that - but I didn't believe it would be enough, even with a first place finish.

After I topped out, I didn't even know that I had the medal. Only after our national coach Reini Scherer pointed out to me that I was third could I believe it. What a moment - I won't forget anytime soon.

It was a fight till the end, and lead climbing brought me a medal again - it's just amazing. I feel so incredibly fit in this competition. It obviously doesn't matter how I enter the round - it just always works.

The bronze medal means so much, but I have to process it first. It all happened so fast. I've worked so hard for so long. There's a lot of sweat behind this medal. That means everything to me.

I would like to take this opportunity to congratulate Alberto Ginez Lopez and Nathaniel Coleman on their gold and silver medals!“

Alberto Ginés López started off by first winning in Speed. Interestingly, the 18-year-old had done 15 IFSC comps prior to the Olympics, compared with only 8 events for the one doing second-most. IFSC has published some quotes from the Spaniard.

“It's a dream come true, I didn't expect it at all. I didn't expect to get into the final. A dream come true.

Our goal from the start was to get into the final, we knew it would be difficult, and then we were in the final. A few things hadn't gone to plan, and we just knew we had to do the best we can.

I was doing some calculating, with the points, and then I decided not to get into that, that it wouldn't be good for me. I just decided to do as well as I could, and I thought 'If I do well, I do well, and if I don't, I don't.'”(c) Jon Glassberg/Louder Than 11

Alberto Ginés López (ESP) is the first Olympic Gold medallist in Sport Climbing. Nathaniel Coleman (USA) took silver. Jakob Schubert (AUT) won Bronze. The big favourites for gold, Adam Ondra (CZE) and Tomoa Narasaki, (JPN) narrowly missed the podium. Narasaki's slip in the speed stage final probably cost him the gold.
The lead stage could not have been more dramatic. The routesetters (Adam Pustelnik (POL), Jan Zbranek (CZE), Hiroshi Okano (JPN) and Akito Matsushima (JPN)) set a fantastic final route, that got a Top and on which every climber went into fighting mode.

Adam Ondra and Jakob Schubert both needed to win the stage in order to get a medal. Schubert was last out, after Ondra reached 42+. Alberto Ginés López was #1 overall after having climbed to hold 38+ but could lose the gold to Adam Ondra, depending on the results for Schubert. As Schubert grabbed hold #39, Ondra was in the gold position for some seconds before Schubert, in full control got to hold #43, moving Ondra to 6th position and Alberto getting back his gold. Then Schubert topped out, apparently with power to spare, creating an extraordinary show and drama that will go to the history books. (c) Jon Glassberg/Louder Than 11



Combined Final Results
1 Ginés López Alberto (ESP) 1 * 7 * 4 = 28
2 Coleman Nathaniel (USA) 6 * 1 * 5 = 30
3 Schubert Jakob (AUT) 7 * 5 * 1 = 35
4 Narasaki Tomoa (JPN) 2 * 3 * 6 = 36
5 Mawem Mickael (FRA) 3 * 2 * 7 = 42
6 Ondra Adam (CZE) 4 * 6 * 2 = 48
7 Duffy Colin (USA) 5 * 4 * 3 = 60
- Mawem Bassa (FRA) DNS

Big drama in the Bouldering final where Nathaniel Colman (USA) won with two tops. The ranks 2 - 5 were decided by number of attempts to the zone on the second boulder as they all flashed the first boulder and then flashed the zone on the last boulder. Mickael Mawem was ranked as #2 as he was the only one flashing all three zones.
Adam Ondra, who looked strongest on the last boulder, was ranked #6.
As it stands, it is a totally open affair among Mawem, Narasaki (JPN) and Coleman, all tied with six points and Alberto Ginés López with seven points. By using the qualifying rankings, Alberto will take the gold ahead of Coleman. Jakob Schubert would go from the bottom in the field to a bronze.

1 Mawem Mickael (FRA) 3 * 2 (1T3z 1 3) = 6
2 Narasaki Tomoa (JPN) 2 * 3 (1T3z 1 5) = 6
3 Coleman Nathaniel (USA) 6 * 1 (2T3z 4 4)= 6 (c) Jon Glassberg/Louder Than 11

4 Ginés López Alberto (ESP) 1 * 7 (0T3z 0 9) = 7
5 Duffy Colin (USA) 5 * 4 (1T3z 1 5) = 20
6 Ondra Adam (CZE) 4 * 6 (1T2z 2 2) = 24
7 Schubert Jakob (AUT) 7 * 5 (1T3z 1 7) = 35
8. Mawem Bassa (FRA) - | DNS - | DNS - | - DNS

In the first ever Olympic final stage, Spanish lead specialist Alberto Ginés López took first place in Speed. In his first race, his opponent Colin Duffy (USA) false started, then Ginés López beat Adam Ondra, who had had a free pass to Top 4 after Bassa Mawem’s DNS due to injury. In the final heat, Tomoa Narasaki (JPN) slipped on the so-called Tomoa start, and Ginés López didn’t let his chance pass. The young Spaniard now has excellent chances for a medal due to the multiplication format. In practice, he most probably only needs to be #5 in one of the remaining disciplines.

Mikael Mawem (FRA) placed third, after some slips on his race against Narasaki. Notable was Adam Ondra setting an impressive PB of 6.86s on what might have been the last speed run of his career. Nathaniel Coleman (AUT) finished 6th and Jakob Schubert (AUT) finished 7th. While nothing is decided, Ginés López and Ondra have gotten a great start.

Speed Stage Results

1 Ginés López Alberto 6.42 (c) Jon Glassberg/Louder Than 11
2 Narasaki Tomoa 7.82
3 Mawem Mickael 6.47
4 Ondra Adam 6.86
5 Duffy Colin 6.35
6 Coleman Nathaniel FALL
7 Schubert Jakob WILDCARD
8 Mawem Bassa DNS