Janja Garnbret (SLO) wins the gold by also winning in Lead

Janja Garnbret was the big favourite coming into the Olympics and delivered just like she has been doing the last few years, winning in both Bouldering and Lead. Runner-ups were Miho Nonaka and Akiyo Noguchi from Japan, who did her last competition after a very impressive 17(!!) years international competition career. As the lead qualification winner, Chaehyun Seo, who has beaten Janja in five out of their seven competitions, began her climb, there was a big drama about who was going to get the bronze medal. At one point, Jessica Pilz had the bronze but then Seo surpassed her and Noguchi was back on the podium, unless Seo would beat Garnbret, in which case the Korean would get the bronze.

#4 was the new Speed World record holder Aleksandra Miroslaw (POL) having been beaten by Akiyo in two out of the three disciplines. Noteworthy is also that in practice, Miroslaw lost her bronze due to countback in bouldering.

Like in the men's final, the Lead route was great, while the boulders were too hard. The camera work and direction was again not good with many distracting close-ups. On the other hand, the Eurosport commentator did an excellent job, including explaining all the possible multiplication outcomes live.

1. Janja Garnbret 5 * 1 * 1 = 5 (c) Jon Glassberg/Louder Than 11
2. Miho Nonaka 3 * 3 * 5 = 45
3. Akiyo Noguchi 4 * 4 * 4 = 64
4. Aleksandra Miroslaw 1 * 8 * 8 = 64
5. Brooke Raboutou 7 * 2 * 6 = 84
6. Anouck Jaubert 2 * 6 * 7 = 84
7. Jessica Pilz 6 * 5 * 3 = 90
8. Chaehyoun Seo 8 * 7 * 2 = 112