Luca Bana, with three 9a+’ under his belt, has made the first ascent of The Master (9a+) in Cornalba. ”9a+/b Yess! The day I'd been waiting for quite some time has finally arrived! Bolted it back in November 2023, when I was looking for a new challenge on the magical ledge, I’d been dreaming of this line ever since. A journey of up and downs, falling with numb fingertips in the freezing wind, facing tough conditions and struggling to find the right day. An intense vertical chapter lasted two seasons. I'm glad it's finally done! Thank you to everyone who believed in me and shared this beautiful journey along the way.” (c) Nabil Rossi

”Clear skies and crisp air: conditions look perfect. After a solid first go, I find myself back on the ground, looking up once more. I’m satisfied with matching my previous high point, but I know it's still not enough if I want to have a chance.

Two full hours of rest, temps are way colder but I'm ready to try again. This time, I climb smoothly through all the hard middle section, breathing on almost every move. Short, sharp shakes — and I launch into the upper crux. 

From below, someone shouts “Come on, you’ve got it!” — as I stick the hold I’d never reached before. Almost in disbelief, I keep going, aware the route isn't over yet. My forearms are about to give out on the very last moves, but the tiny spark of energy left in me is just enough to grab the top hold and clip the chains — the same ones I placed back in November 2023 when, looking for my next challenge, I bolted the route.

For sure, it's my most difficult ascent to date — 9a+ hard is what it felt like to me, hence the slash grade. But let's see what others will say! Sooner or later I'll be back for the longer and slightly harder version starting from Goldrake.”

Jules Marchaland, who since August has done his four first 8C’s, including one flash, has sent Solar Plexus (8C) in Valle Bavona. ”Tried one day some months ago. Went quickly today. Super sick. First Time I was « campus for sure » and today I used the foot without any doubt with the solution comp it’s game changer.”

Today, he also flashed an 8A and Ganymede Takeover (8A+), putting him at the top of this year’s flash ranking game.

Formerly focused mainly on routes and competitions, the 24-year-old has in 2025 completed eleven climbs graded between 9a and 9b. In other words, only a handful of climbers can boast such an outstanding combined ticklist this year.

Jonathan Siegrist, with close to 100 routes 9a and beyond to his name, has done the first ascent of Eazy Street (9a+) in Mt. Charleston. The link up is around 30 meters and the breakdown is 7C+, 8c and 7C+. (c) Ryan White

The line of strength in the Compton Cave. An awesome fight on the send, battling all the way until clipping the anchor! Started on Legend (8b+) climbed through my new traverse into the end of Express Yourself (9a). It was so fun to piece this thing together.”

Eva Hammelmüller, who has held the number one spot in the VL ranking game for a year, has kept her momentum rolling over the past two weekends, sending two 8c+’s and two 8c’s. (c) Felix Mast
Love 2.1 (8c+) in Zillertal: ”This is the line of the valley, sooo good!!! Took me two days to send it, simply amazing.”

Reality Check (8c+) in Schleierwasserfall: ”OMG why didn't I climb more at Schleier in the past years? This place is incredibly beautiful, and I can't wait to discover more amazing lines like this one!! You better like 3mm crimps, though... ;)”

Can you tell us more about your first weekend ascents?
This weekend was just incredible! After a few really promising (but unsuccessful) attempts in my project, I managed climb a cool 8b+ at Götterwandl. The next day, we went to Zillertal to try a route I checked out two weeks ago. I not only climbed the 8c part it on my first send go, but as well decided to downclimb the last few quickdraws to try the direct exit. I ‘stole’ the idea from a local climber who sent it in exactly this style nearly two decades ago ;). However, I underestimated how pumpy downclimbing the short but steep roof would be; in addition, you don’t reach the nearly no-hand-rest again that you’d usually have after the first hard part of the 8c+. I honestly didn’t consider actually sending the route in that go, but somehow I managed to stay on the wall! Couldn’t believe it!! Climbing another 8c at Schleierwasserfall the next day was the icing on the cake.

Eva’s send train continued the next weekend in Schleierwasserfall.

Gambit (8c+): ”What a line!!! I love this style of climbing (endurance on pockets in perfect rock - can it get any better?!), and I love this location. Climbing with the waterfall behind your back truly is something special! On my first send go yesterday, I surprisingly made it to the last hard move. However, I didn't figure out a suitable beta and fell 2 more times up there... Finally, I had the foothold dialed, and I sent it today on my warm up go!!! - I guess I was still pumped enough from yesterday :D”

Least Resistance (8c): ”How did that work out?????? Still can't believe that I made it through the crux with completely frozen fingers, some improvisations, and even a footslip. Didn't climb the upper part perfectly, but luckily well enough - thanks Robs for reminding me of the beta up there! Crazy day.”

Can you tell us more about the second weekend’s ascents?
I love the style of climbing at Schleierwasserfall (endurance on pockets in perfect rock - can it get any better?!), and I love the location. Climbing with the waterfall behind your back truly is something special! On my first send go in ‘Gambit’, I surprisingly made it to the last hard move. However, I didn't figure out a suitable beta and fell 2 more times up there... Finally, I had the foothold dialed, and I sent it the day after on my warm up go!!! - I guess I was still pumped enough from the tries the day before :D.

While the send of ‘Gambit‘ felt solid, I had the craziest fight in ‘Resistance’. Not expecting to climb all the way to the top in my second go, I battled completely numb fingers, memory gaps, and waterfall showers. Winning this fight felt surreal!

Alex Ventajas, with some 20 routes 9a and beyond under his belt, has done Trip tik tonik (9a). ”So thrilled to send this super line in just 2 days of attempts! Thanks to Alessio and Claudia for all the betas that helped me achieve it so fast! Totally my style, tricky kneebars and after the blouder a nice endurance run till the anchor!”

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I’d been curious about this sector for a few years already. I’d seen lots of videos of “Trip tik tonik” and it always looked so aesthetic. This week I was on holiday in Rodellar, but I felt the need to “change the air” a bit and visit a new place. It seemed like the perfect chance to start heading back toward Italy and make a stop here.

I knew I wanted to try this line, so I focused on it immediately! I only had three climbing days left, so I knew it was going to be a good challenge. Luckily, I met Claudia Ghisolfi and Alessio Voghera there, who had both recently sent the route, and they shared their betas with me. That definitely helped me cut down on the number of attempts!

The route really suits my style: the first part is quite technical, with some knee-bars, and the upper section after the boulder is a masterpiece of endurance. Already on my second go I fell at the crux, which gave me the chance to refine the boulder sequence and consolidate the upper part.

On the second day, I knew that if I could just get through the crux, I’d have a good shot at clipping the chains. I kept falling there, but each time a little bit higher, getting down after every fall to save energy.

I waited for the last light of the day to rest properly and give it one final go: this time I finally stuck the boulder and reached a small saving kneebar! Despite the fatigue of the long day, I suddenly felt full of energy and kept going, enjoying the long ride on the tufas all the way to the top!

I’m super happy to have sent the route in just two days and to have stayed motivated even when the boulder was shutting me down at first. I would have loved to try the original beta from before the key hold broke (it looked so unique!), but the new sequence is still cool!

Janja Garnbret, who flashed Puro Dreaming (9a), last week reports on Instagram. ”Quick work of Rude (8B+)” in Val Daone.

The 26-year-old has dominated the comp scene for ten years and last year she sent Bügeleisen Sit (8C).

Jennifer Wood has completed Pixam (8c) in Kalymnos. This was the fourth 8c since July for the 29-year-old who finished competing in 2023.

Can you tell us more about the send and your kneepad thinking?
I tried Pixam at the end of my last trip in May and surprised myself by actually getting really close. First go this trip I couldn’t believe how much easier the moves felt so confidently set off on Redpoint. Got a bit shut down aha, the humidity was tough and I was faffing with a tricky clip and I was powering out.

A couple of days later and I’d lost my initial optimism but stuck with it, but everything went wrong on the send go aha. I fumbled a clip about 6 times, ripped a massive flapper in my tip but just dug deep on the crux and somehow pulled it off. After a reasonable rest the top wall is an amazing bit of climbing, maybe 8a+ ish so felt great to hold it together :) “

I actually did wear a knee pad in the end! Was a bit stubborn last trip because I don’t like climbing in them, but this season plus time with the experts in Hvar has helped me get to grips with them 😂

How can you best explain your continuous great progress the last few years?
I think the main reason I’ve been able to improve quite a lot this year is just spending sooo much more time on rock ! Comps are not so good for that 😅 I feel like I’ve been learning a lot technically as well as just getting better at projecting tactics. Oh and I have rest days on trips now , annoyingly that helps a lot too 😉

Stephan Vogt, who did Action Directe (9a) in 2017, has completed Nice freshly baked (9a) in Frankenjura. ”Really good upgrade to the already amazing Shangri-La. [Adding a boulder on top of the 8c+]. Deserves a cooler name... One of the more natural hard routes in the Jura! Thought I could do it on my second session but then kept falling 10ish times after the big crux move. Thanks Leona for all the belays and Hans for the picture and the good projecting vibes!” (c) Hans Radetzki

What are your winter plans?
I have a few more projects that I am excited about and that I hope to finish soon. Now that I am a local here I finally have time to do quick sessions in between work.

Katherine Choong, formerly a competition climber and now regarded as one of the world’s leading female multi-pitch climbers, has sent the five pitches Tarragó (8b+) in Tarragó (8b+). ”6b, 8b, 8a, 8b+, 7c+/8a. The rock isn’t exactly perfect though : dusty, fragile conglomerate, holds breaking every other try… But the climbing is super athletic and sustained, on a massive overhang, surrounded by the magical landscape of Montserrat. All the pitches were climbed in lead and sent in a single day. Route open by David Tarragó, first freed by the Pou brothers in 2013, and later repeated by Edu Marín, Seb Berthe and Jorge Díaz-Rullo. Thanks to all of them for the vision and the inspiration! (c) Mélanie Cannac

”I thought I’d be able to send it pretty quickly. No crazy hard moves, and the style seemed to fit me well. But it turned out to be way tougher than expected! On my first ground-up go, I fell at the very top of pitch 4 (8b+). The following days, I couldn’t even get past the first crux of the 8b+, and fighting my way through pitch 2 (8b), which I only sometimes sent on my second try, drained me completely. Last October 15th, after a day of rain, the rock was still slightly humid. I sent P2, then made it through the first crux of P4, getting close to the spot where I’d fallen on day one… when suddenly I was hanging in the rope again, a hold broke in my hand. The situation felt hopeless. Failing because of something beyond my control was even more frustrating than falling from my own mistake. I took a breath, found a new beta, rested, and went for one final try. This time, in a full-on fight, shaking on each holds, everything finally came together. I clipped the anchor. I topped out the final pitch in thick fog, completely drained but deeply happy. What a journey. Many thanks to Jim Zimmermann, my partner, who was extremely close to sending it, but the conditions during the last two days we had left were the worst of the trip : fog wrapped the cliff in humidity all day long. We’ll be back!”

What are your winter plans?
I would like to go back to Perles to try again Esclatamasters (9a). I injured my finger last year in this route but I really liked it and would love to finish it. Maybe Villanueva del Rosario if I have time, no particular project at the moment but there's many routes that I would like to try.

Jernej Kruder has done the second repeat, after Matty Hong, of Chris Sharma’s Big fish (8c+) in Mallorca. ”Crux starts at about 15m and finishes at 20! 8c+/9a.”.

The 34-year-old is one of the very best multi-discipline climbers out there. In 2018, he captured the Boulder World Cup title, and outdoors he has sent a 9a+ deep-water solo, a 9a+ first ascent, a 9a trad climb, multiple 8C boulders, and multi-pitch routes graded up to 8c. Here is the Slovenian’s full report. (c) Michael Piccolruaz

”After sending Es Pontas (9a+) back in 2016, I set my eyes on Alasha, which at that time was the second hardest psicobloc line in the world. I spent many days and put in a lot of effort, but the route simply wouldn’t let me through. At some point, I gave up. It was a hard decision, but luckily for me, Chris opened another line — Big Fish. It was slightly lower in grade but with the crux nearly 20 meters above the sea. The moves seemed doable, but the place was dark and intimidating.

I returned in 2023 to give it my full effort. After a few days, I got comfortable with the height and even managed to reach the last hard move. Then the weather turned bad, and my head gave in. I left Mallorca empty-handed. Last year, I bought plane tickets again. But just before leaving, I decided to stay home due to poor weather and to prepare better for my upcoming trip to Yosemite.

This year, things were completely different for me. I focused entirely on outdoor climbing. I did some hard multipitch routes and bouldering lines, and I even managed to finish two of my trad projects on the last days of my trips. I was quite happy with my season so far, so the only thing left for the year was to check out Big Fish again. I didn’t have high expectations — I hadn’t trained or climbed hard since my trip to Squamish. Honestly, I just wanted to see if it was worth coming back in December. My first touch after two years felt surprisingly good. I didn’t feel too weak, and I felt very comfortable high above the water. Falling twice from the first hard move on the first day was more of an introduction to falling again than a real attempt to send.

The next day was different. I was there with just two friends — Jairo and Carlos. I felt ready to commit. The sea was calm, and the air was dry. I cruised through the first section. Then time seemed to stop. I was completely in the moment — no sound of my friends cheering, no music from the speaker, no thoughts about the past or the future. Just pure focus on the next move. I climbed through the crux and suddenly found myself standing on top of one of my favorite lines in the world. After the conditions deteriorated, I spent the rest of my trip simply enjoying the island and checking out new projects. On my last day, I sent Face Your Fear (8b) on my second go.”