Filip Schenk ticks Beginning (9a+)

Filip Schenk, who just did his first 9b, has sent Beginning (9a+) in Arco. ”Last autumn I struggled a lot with the cold temperatures on this one. This year I came back and send it on my second try. This one means a lot to me!”

The Italian has been competing actively since 2014 and as a teenager he won eleven IFSC comps including two World Championships in Boulder. This year was his best World Cup season and he was third in Chamonix. (c) Crimp Films

”Eremo di San Paolo is the crag where I first started climbing, and probably the one where I’ve climbed the most in my entire life. I never really loved its style: physical, overhanging, with tiny holds. Maybe that’s exactly why I kept going back, driven by the need to test myself. After starting the season sending Erebor, I experienced a few almost magical days: within five days I also sent Tre Mou Polacche (9a) and my old project, Beginning (9a+). Finishing the hardest routes at the "Eremo" leaves me with a bittersweet feeling, but also the pride of seeing real progress in the style that has always challenged me the most."

How can you best explain your peak in 2025?
I have worked on my finger strength which always have been my weakness. Especially on rock, this has helped me. It is also about finding a balance to be motivated. Previous years I was tired after the comp season and not so motivated trying harder routes. Now I have five more days outdoors before I start my training for the next comp season.