NEWS

Lethal Design 8A+ by Audrey Miller
Audrey Miller, who did her first 8c last year, has done in Photos. With some 100 ascents in the 8a database it is one of the most repeated 8A+ in the USA. Some guys have called it 8A and Adam Ondra, who flashed it, actually said it might be 7C+.

"I first saw Lethal about a year ago and was way too intimidated by the tiny crimps, and the number of moves to give it any tries. Another year later I found myself back at the boulder, and got convinced to try it. After sussing the moves, I almost bailed on ever trying again because those holds are sharp as knives, but something about it drew me in. I came back a month later for spring break, and knew I wanted to try and take it down. I spent a couple days trying the moves and making links, and had a really close go that ended in a dry fire. After that, I knew I could do it. I only had one day left in my trip, so I felt a bit of pressure to do it, knowing I wouldnโ€™t be back for maybe a year. Thankfully, the combination of a cool breeze and some great energy from my friends gave me the psych to fire off the boulder first try of the day!"

Zonker L1 + L2 8a onsight by Andrea Locatelli (11)
Andrea Locatelli, who did his first 8c last year, has onsighted Zonker L1+L2 (8a) in Valle dell'Opol. "My first 8a onsight. Not very hard but surely very nice. I easily got through the first part (7a), then I was lucky enough to immediately understand the crux. I made the most out of a good rest and climbed the last part well. When at last the carabiner was in the chain my heart started beating super-fast and I was so happy to be there! I really like onsight climbing because you never know what's coming next."

His father David gave us some info on Andrea's climbing background. "Since Andrea was very young, we got him used to spend a lot of time outdoors, often on the crag, close to home or around Europe. When he was three years old, he started to play in the small climbing gym we have in our garage, and he improved very fast. At the age of seven, he joined a climbing team and started to compete in regional and national competitions. He likes to climb in the climbing gym, where he trains twice or three times a week, but he also loves to climb outdoors.

So far, he has not dedicated many days to a project, and he likes onsight climbing. At the age of nine, he completed his first 8a and right afterwards his first 7c onsight. To reach the climbing areas, we often travel with the whole family in our camper, trying to offer him a variety of climbing styles, types of rocks, crags, and boulder areas. Soon, we would like to go to Fontainebleau and then Kalymnos!"

Adam Ondra has onsighted Prospettiva Nevski (8c), "Nice pumpy line, really proud to onsight this one! given 8c+, hard 8c is a good grade in my opinion." and Solitary Souls (8c+) in Arco. "Perfect flow on all of its 35 meters, unique line, unique to climb!"

In total, the 29-year-old has now 23 8c+ onsights recorded on his scorecard but it would be close to 30 without all his personal grades. His superiority is just amazing as no other has onsighted more than two. He was also the first to onsight a 9a but he lost that title as he downgraded it. Overall, Adam has been pretty much the best onsight climber in the world since 2005, when he at age 12, onsighted 19 8a+ and 8 8b's.

Junero 8C by James Pearson
James Pearson has done his first 8C, Junero in Albarracin. The 36-year-old started out as a bold trad climber on the British scene, establishing and repeating cutting edge routes. Later he began doing both hard multi-pitch routes as well as Big Wall ascents, besides ticking 9a sport routes. and hard DWS. In other words, including this 8C boulder, he is one of the best multi-discipline climbers in the world.

โ€œOn the day I climbed Juneru Sit, I warmed up in my usual way and began to try the moves. I wanted to try the knee-bar in isolation yet again, to see if today was the day I might finally unlock the enigma, but I couldnโ€™t even pull onto the crux from my ladder, my left middle fingers refusing to take the punishment of the tiny undercling pocket. I began to try the first moves in the hope that Iโ€™d find some forgotten courage, but slipped off early onโ€ฆ things were not looking good!

. A few tries later I fought desperately and made it to the knee-bar, I really wanted it and knew time was running out, so took extra care to work on my body position to give me every chance. The knee-bar stuck and I lifted my left hand, it was working, I was doing it, then boom, I hit the crash pads! My knuckles covered in blood, what once was my skin shining red and white still hanging on the first crimp.

I tried a few more times but felt empty and burnt out. When I fell on the first move, not even able to arm the first crimp, I decided that enough was enough, packed up my things, and started to walk back down to the van. I remembered the climbing heroes from the movies of my youth, people like Chris Sharma always sent their project on the last day, last try, when things were looking bleak. It had never worked for me before, but for some reason on this day I decided to go back for one final try.
" . I donโ€™t think I've ever tried so hard on a boulder problem, and was sure I was going to fall on each and every move, somehow sticking it and moving on to the next. When I got to the knee-bar, it felt so bad that I didnโ€™t even worry about trying to place myself well, instead just throwing for the next hold, totally lost in the moment. When I caught it and realised everything had stuck, I was suddenly transported back to the here and now, instantly aware of what Iโ€™d just done, but also how exhausted I was. The next 3 moves, normally much easier than the rest, have never felt so hard, but there was no way I was falling off or at least giving up without the fight of my life. I dragged myself over the top and just stood there looking down at the pads smiling. This one meant a lot!โ€

Esclatamasters 8c+/9a by Hazel Findlay
Hazel Findlay reports on Insta that she has done Esclatamasters (8c+/9a) in Perles. It was put up by Ramon Julian Puigblanque in 2006 and it has previously been repeated by five females. At one time it was considered as 8c+ but due to a break it is possibly back to 9a again. (c) Ezra Byrne

Hazel is one of the best female trad climbers out there and she has also done several multi-pitches as well as big walls. Previously, she has done a couple of 8c sport routes. Until age 16, her main focus was competitions and she was British junior champion six times.

La Ligne Claire 8c+ by Manon Hily
Manon Hily, #4 in the World Cup 2018, reports on Insta that she has done La Ligne Claire 8c+ in St Lรฉger. (c) Antonin Rhodes

"I had one week off so I decided with a friend to go to Spain but the weather forecast was not so good . We changed our plan in last minute and decided to go to Saint Leger. For the first three days, I just tried some beta in different sections. I had one rest day and then I did the first real attempt. I fell on the top at the crux move and then in the last two days, I fell again twice in the same move. The last go was the good one. It was the last day. The international woman right day ;)"

What is next?
I'm training for the competitions :) In May and June, we will have the french selection. I hope to be in the french team and to do all the world cups in Europe. I hope to be back in the finales :)

The Game 8C by Nick Bradley
Nick Bradley has done The Game (8C) in Boulder Canyon (CO). "Just logging this feels unreal. A dream of mine that I never thought would become a reality. 30+ sessions on the most physically and mentally demanding project Iโ€™ve ever had. Just absolutely elated. I donโ€™t think Iโ€™ll ever stress about climbing again after this." (c) Alton Richardsson.

Interesting is that the 25-year-old has done all his three 8Cโ€™s just the last nine months. His Insta starts with, "As long as Iโ€™ve been climbing, Iโ€™ve felt the need to prove myself, to myself. Somehow, that eventually developed into some serious imposter syndrome. In my mind, The Game was and always will be the hardest boulder in the world. The boulder to prove yourself on. In reality, that sentiment is no longer widely held. The Game is now far from the hardest in the world, but that hasnโ€™t changed how I feel about it. Itโ€™s not the grade, itโ€™s the climb itself and its reputation."

How can you explain being a "late bloomer"?
Iโ€™m not really sure how to explain that, to be honest. I train constantly to get better. In the last couple years, Iโ€™ve made a few important mental breakthroughs that probably made the difference.

I went through a bit of a plateau because I was only projecting on hard boulders and not sending anything. That would get to my head a lot. I switched gears and decided to do a bunch of boulders that I knew were hard for me but well within my ability. I ended up doing several, and that was the confidence booster I needed to finish up the harder projects. I just needed to be in the mindset of sending.

Another breakthrough for me was letting myself think Iโ€™m strong. Iโ€™d actively tell myself that before getting on the wall. Something about that used to feel self-centered and insincere, but getting over that made a big difference. Iโ€™d get on the wall with the mentality that I know I can do the moves, rather than testing to see if I can.

Meadow Lark Lemon 8B by Kirsch and Fausey
Michaela Kirsch reports on Insta and Isabelle Faus with an Insta video that they have done Meadow Lark Lemon 8B in Red Rocks. Michaela only needed 3-4 sessions and actually, Isabelle did it even faster.

TCG explains:  "Why did Ondra downgrade his own route?"
EPIC TV has published a video with the headline - Why did Ondra downgrade his own route?

Ondra's comments in his scorecard: "I thought it would be 9b+, but unfortunately after only a few days of work it cannot be 9b+."

TCG stands for Time Comparison Grading, which means that a grade is applied mainly based on how much time and effort was invested. In other words, if Ondra had needed another five days to send it, he would have likely suggested 9b+ for it. More details about TCG.