Time Comparison Grading (TCG)

Debate/Jens: I have been asked to discuss the TCG which was created five years ago in order to try to explain and compare climbing gradings. The simplified diagram shows an example comparison of the time needed for a 7b+ max onsight climber to reach harder grades in perfect conditions. Click on the Picture The first 9a, 9a+ and 9b where all done after months of invested time by the FA. If you or anybody make a personal best within 15 minutes or so, it is most likely that it is a devalued grade. When you can not reach your max level it can often be explained by; Condition, Form, Style, Beta or that the grade is very stiff. TCG is a long way from a perfect tool to explain/compare grading as there are so many variables that can not be controlled. The time span are longer in bouldering and for different types of climbers. As it best, TCG can give a grade suggestion based on how much time was needed for an ascent.