Junero 8C by James Pearson

James Pearson has done his first 8C, Junero in Albarracin. The 36-year-old started out as a bold trad climber on the British scene, establishing and repeating cutting edge routes. Later he began doing both hard multi-pitch routes as well as Big Wall ascents, besides ticking 9a sport routes. and hard DWS. In other words, including this 8C boulder, he is one of the best multi-discipline climbers in the world.

“On the day I climbed Juneru Sit, I warmed up in my usual way and began to try the moves. I wanted to try the knee-bar in isolation yet again, to see if today was the day I might finally unlock the enigma, but I couldn’t even pull onto the crux from my ladder, my left middle fingers refusing to take the punishment of the tiny undercling pocket. I began to try the first moves in the hope that I’d find some forgotten courage, but slipped off early on… things were not looking good!

. A few tries later I fought desperately and made it to the knee-bar, I really wanted it and knew time was running out, so took extra care to work on my body position to give me every chance. The knee-bar stuck and I lifted my left hand, it was working, I was doing it, then boom, I hit the crash pads! My knuckles covered in blood, what once was my skin shining red and white still hanging on the first crimp.

I tried a few more times but felt empty and burnt out. When I fell on the first move, not even able to arm the first crimp, I decided that enough was enough, packed up my things, and started to walk back down to the van. I remembered the climbing heroes from the movies of my youth, people like Chris Sharma always sent their project on the last day, last try, when things were looking bleak. It had never worked for me before, but for some reason on this day I decided to go back for one final try." . I don’t think I've ever tried so hard on a boulder problem, and was sure I was going to fall on each and every move, somehow sticking it and moving on to the next. When I got to the knee-bar, it felt so bad that I didn’t even worry about trying to place myself well, instead just throwing for the next hold, totally lost in the moment. When I caught it and realised everything had stuck, I was suddenly transported back to the here and now, instantly aware of what I’d just done, but also how exhausted I was. The next 3 moves, normally much easier than the rest, have never felt so hard, but there was no way I was falling off or at least giving up without the fight of my life. I dragged myself over the top and just stood there looking down at the pads smiling. This one meant a lot!”