Gianluca Vighetti has had a great trip to Isili which begun with a one day ascent of Terzo Tempo (8c+), that took it down from 9a. Later he did the FA of Not so Isili (9a+) and Nara Cixiri (9a). “I propose 8c+/9a for this line, slightly harder than Terzo Tempo. It starts on Terzo Tempo than it goes all the way up-right until before the last crux of Halloween.”

Can you tell us more about your 9a+ FA?
After doing Terzo Tempo I asked if there were some lines that still waited for the first ascent. Not so Isili was the real ultimate hard route of Isili. It connects the crux of "Terzo Tempo" with the crux of "La signora con La Falce 8c" with a really long and pumpy traverse in the middle. I think this route could be 9a+, maybe a soft one because I felt it a little bit easier than Lapsus but it is much more my style.

Simon Lorenzi reports on Instagram that he has repeated Sean Bailey’s Shaolin (9A) in First Creek Canyon. The 28-year-old has previously done the FA of Soudain seul (9A), repeated Alphane (9A), Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) and Burden of Dreams (9A). Including some 8C+’, the active competition climber has the most impressive boulder tick list in the world together with Will Bosi. (c) Yulen Calleja

”Shaolin was my main goal of the trip; I had tried it a little last year and trained specifically to be ready and fit! Everything went super smoothly. It’s the first time a 9A has worked like this for me: at every session I was making progress, without rushing, just staying patient until everything clicked. It was also much easier mentally than last year, because I was with my friends, we had an Airbnb, we were comfortable, joking around outside the boulder. The whole experience was really enjoyable!”

Alex Johnson, with 8B+ as her personal best, has sent Gringo (8A+) in The Swell. Between 2008 and 2010, the 36-year-old won two World Cups and secured second place twice.“ Gorj, maybe one of the best in the state. Insane backdrop. I love the desert.” (c) Tim Kemple

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
This climb has been on my wishlist for a long time, and I’m stoked we finally made the trip to the desert. The boulder is beautiful, the movement is super fun, and the scenery is stunning.

I managed to do it quickly, which felt like a strong reflection of where I’m at right now and the work I’ve been putting in. It feels like a meaningful punctuation mark on 2025, and it’s motivating to head into 2026 with this momentum.

What are your 2026 plans?
First and foremost, back to the Swell! I fell off the end of another 12 [8A+], would have been insane to do them back to back, but alas.

Trips to both Joshua Tree and Vegas in January. Then just hopefully checking more things off my all-time wishlist, but mostly local-ish for now, no major trips planned yet. Utah winter is still yielding, it’s been amazing.

Leo Bøe sent Change (9b+) in September after working it for 2.5 months. “The trick to sending was a combination of many things, but having the right mindset was crucial. I got to a point where I was tired mentally after so many days on the route. It was even hard to walk up to the cave, but a change of mindset helped alot. I started focusing on the battle and not the result. I decided to be happy with my performance as long as I tried my hardest. I was able to just focus on the moves and trying hard and it got me all the way to the top.”

Sam Weir, who had his best year last year sending seven boulders 8C and beyond, has repeated Tagada (8B+) in Chironico. “2nd ascent. Harder than all my 8C of last year so I suspect this one is regular 8C.”

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Tagada is a small power boulder revolving around an undercling opened by my friend Clément Lechaptois a few years ago. After a few sessions I managed to work it out. Clem opened it at 8B+? but it was harder than the 8Cs of last year for me so I think this could be more in the 8C range. He is out there fighting grade inflation all alone 🤣

Noah Wheeler, who last year sent two 9A’s, has flashed Zach Galla’s Brass Knuckles (8B+) in Dayton Pocket / Laurel Snow. ”Amazing boulder! Tried to optimize my warmup and prep because I knew it was in style and it payed off! With the original beta.”

How did you optimize your warm up?
I have a series of dynamic stretches that I do every climbing day - I did those for a more extended period of time and did some warmup moves on Riverdance (7C) - the boulder to the right of Brass.

What about beta preparation, any videos?
Not much beta prep - Watched some vids. I knew of two different betas for the crux going in - heel hook and toe in. I knew the toe in beta was much less nuanced and more board style, so it was the obvious choice for a flash go. Ultimately it all came down to a nice long proper warm up and a good mindset!

For 24 years, we’ve compiled our Climber of the Year list using available reporting and information. We place added emphasis on climbers who excel across multiple disciplines, from competition climbing to performance on real rock. First ascents, trad climbing, multi-pitch routes, and deep-water soloing (DWS) also factor into our selections. Because the list is inherently subjective, we welcome your input, suggestions, and nominations. (c) Andrea Donato

1. Laura Rogora - ITA
2. Janja Garnbret - SLO
3. William Bosi - GBR
4. Chaehyun Seo - KOR
5. Mejdi Schalck - FRA
6. Adam Ondra - CZE
7. Michaela Kiersch - USA
8. Alberto Gines López - ESP
9. Brooke Raboutou - USA
10.Yannick Flohé - GER, Jorge Diaz-Rullo - ESP

11. Eva Hammelmüller, Sorato Anraku, Seb Bouin, Elias Iagnemma, Jules Marchaland, Simon Lorenzi, Alex Megos, Katie Lamb, Jakob Schubert, Lee Dohyun, Hamish McArtur, Stefano Ghisolfi, Erin McNeice, Noah Wheeler, Manon Hily, Stefano Carnati, Oriane Bertone, Filip Schenk, Dylan Chuat, Nicolai Užnik, Melina Costanza, Pepa Šindel, Tereza Svobodova, Sera Gearhart, Barbara Zangerl, Zach Galla, Martina Demmel, Claudia Ghisolfi, Lara Trinkl, Gio Placci, Andrea Chelleris, Sean Bailey, Leo Bøe, Jonathan Flor, Jonathan Siegrist, Loic Zehani, Karoline Sinnhuber, Lorenzo Bogliacino, Simone Tentori, Annie Sanders, Sungsu Lee, Satone Yoshida, Pietro Vidi, Colin Duffy, Mao Nakamora, Toby Roberts, Lucija Tarkuš, Jacopo Larcher, Camilla Moroni, Aidan Roberts

Andrea Chelleris, who the last month previously has sent three 9a’s, has completed Ciudad de dios (9a) in Santa Linya. The 16-year-old Italian, who won the Euro Youth Cup, is #1 in the Vertical-Life Youth ranking game. (c) Emile Pino - Pino pictures

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
After I sent La Fabela (8c+) I decided to try Ciudad de dios which adds a harder start to La Fabela. From the first go I could do the moves well and I started falling on the first crux on my second try. Then yesterday I came and got close on my first 3 attempts but the conditions were humid so every time something was slipping. I wanted to go back home to try it the next day but when a bit of sun got on the wall the conditions got better so I decided to give one more try. I was tired so I had to do all the moves without any mistakes. It worked out and I passed the crux but it wasn’t finished because I had all the Fabela part, so on the jug I stayed a lot to get all the pump away in order to arrive fresh on the very last crux. I had to fight a bit but fortunately I wasn’t close to fall.

Laura Rogora, who earlier in 2025 climbed a dozen routes graded 9a or 9a+, has made the first ascent of Malkuth (9a) at Ferentillo. In addition, with six 8c or 8c+ onsights and getting the bronze in the Lead World Cup, the 24-year-old Italian is the Vertical-Life climber of 2025. (c) Marco Marotta

Can you tell us more about the great sending day?
A few months ago, Cody Roth had told me about this route he was trying at Gabbio, and when I went down to Rome for the holidays, I immediately went to try it. The route starts from Jorgao, a short 8b+, then traverses left just before the chain and connects to an 8c, Die Hard. Yesterday, even on the first attempt, I felt good, but I a foot slipped just before the connection with Die Hard; I did it on the second try of the day. After that, I climbed Kether, an 8c which is the exit variation of Jorgao, and Nel buii 8b, another classic at Gabbio that I hadn’t climbed yet. I also got my hands on a new project bolted by Cody.

How can you best explain your great progress in 2025?
For sure, the fact that I’ve been focusing exclusively on lead climbing with my coach Alessandro Marrocchi and spending a little more time on rock climbing has contributed to my progress.

Serena Morgan has done A Maze of Death (8A+) in Bishop (CA). The Dave Graham boulder from 2002 has been logged 116 times and boasts a 4.6-star rating, putting it among the best out there.

Can you tell us more about doing your first 8A+?
I first tried Maze almost 4 years ago and did quite well on it, but hadn’t been back to try it again until now. After working on other styles, it felt much harder than I’d remembered. I spent several days doing some re-learning and new learning to make it possible for me. Back in Colorado I’ve just been long-term projecting, so it was really fun and rewarding to try hard and execute!

What are your 2026 plans?
I’m pretty psyched to try the Altruist and Lost when I get back to Boulder. I’m thinking of staying out there through the alpine season and then spending the fall/winter in Bishop and maybe Yosemite.