2 January 2026
Simon Lorenzi sends his 5th 9A, Shaolin
Simon Lorenzi reports on Instagram that he has repeated Sean Baileyโs Shaolin (9A) in First Creek Canyon. The 28-year-old has previously done the FA of Soudain seul (9A), repeated Alphane (9A), Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) and Burden of Dreams (9A). Including some 8C+โ, the active competition climber has the most impressive boulder tick list in the world together with Will Bosi. (c) Yulen Calleja
โShaolin was my main goal of the trip; I had tried it a little last year and trained specifically to be ready and fit! Everything went super smoothly. Itโs the first time a 9A has worked like this for me: at every session I was making progress, without rushing, just staying patient until everything clicked. It was also much easier mentally than last year, because I was with my friends, we had an Airbnb, we were comfortable, joking around outside the boulder. The whole experience was really enjoyable!โ
โShaolin was my main goal of the trip; I had tried it a little last year and trained specifically to be ready and fit! Everything went super smoothly. Itโs the first time a 9A has worked like this for me: at every session I was making progress, without rushing, just staying patient until everything clicked. It was also much easier mentally than last year, because I was with my friends, we had an Airbnb, we were comfortable, joking around outside the boulder. The whole experience was really enjoyable!โ
31 comments
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
23 March 2026
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโฆ
Related
7 March 2025
Noah Wheeler repeats Shaolin (9A)
Noah Wheeler, who started the year by doing Return of the Sleepwalker (9A), has done the second ascent of Sean Baileyโs,
Shaolin (9A) in First Creek Canyon.
โRโฆ
10 June 2022
Jungle Boogie 9a+ by Nico Pelorson
Nico Pelorson, who did his first 9a+ this spring, reports on Insta that he has done Jungle Boogie (9a+) in Cรฉรผse. The French has previously done also nine 9a's โฆ
12 November 2022
Forgotten G 8C and Ephyra 8C+ by Will Bosi
William Bosi has repeated Kim Marschner's Forgotten Gem (8C) in Chironico. "Amazing boulder that will be a future classic for sure!" (c) Sam Pratt
Yesterday, heโฆ
Related news
7 March 2025
Noah Wheeler repeats Shaolin (9A)
Noah Wheeler, who started the year by doing Return of the Sleepwalker (9A), has done the second ascent of Sean Baileyโs,
Shaolin (9A) in First Creek Canyon.
โRโฆ
10 June 2022
Jungle Boogie 9a+ by Nico Pelorson
Nico Pelorson, who did his first 9a+ this spring, reports on Insta that he has done Jungle Boogie (9a+) in Cรฉรผse. The French has previously done also nine 9a's โฆ
12 November 2022
Forgotten G 8C and Ephyra 8C+ by Will Bosi
William Bosi has repeated Kim Marschner's Forgotten Gem (8C) in Chironico. "Amazing boulder that will be a future classic for sure!" (c) Sam Pratt
Yesterday, heโฆ
Favorites
8 June 2026
Janja Garnbret does Bibliographie (9b+)
Janja Garnbret has added another milestone to her remarkable climbing career by becoming the first woman to climb Bibliographie (9b+) in Cรฉรผse, one of the hardeโฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ