
1 January 2026
Noah Wheeler flashes Brass Knuckles (8B+)
Noah Wheeler, who last year sent two 9Aโs, has flashed Zach Gallaโs Brass Knuckles (8B+) in Dayton Pocket / Laurel Snow. โAmazing boulder! Tried to optimize my warmup and prep because I knew it was in style and it payed off! With the original beta.โ
How did you optimize your warm up?
I have a series of dynamic stretches that I do every climbing day - I did those for a more extended period of time and did some warmup moves on Riverdance (7C) - the boulder to the right of Brass.
What about beta preparation, any videos?
Not much beta prep - Watched some vids. I knew of two different betas for the crux going in - heel hook and toe in. I knew the toe in beta was much less nuanced and more board style, so it was the obvious choice for a flash go. Ultimately it all came down to a nice long proper warm up and a good mindset!
How did you optimize your warm up?
I have a series of dynamic stretches that I do every climbing day - I did those for a more extended period of time and did some warmup moves on Riverdance (7C) - the boulder to the right of Brass.
What about beta preparation, any videos?
Not much beta prep - Watched some vids. I knew of two different betas for the crux going in - heel hook and toe in. I knew the toe in beta was much less nuanced and more board style, so it was the obvious choice for a flash go. Ultimately it all came down to a nice long proper warm up and a good mindset!
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