Simone Tentori, who sent his first 8C+ last year and did three 8C’s in December, has completed Deep Fake (8C+) in Brione. ”All moves in the first session but then very slow progress with no/very little improvement day after day. Unexpected ascent on my 10th? session. It felt very hard to suggest a difficulty but felt harder than the 8C's I ve done in the previous months.” (c) Martin Svec

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
After my recent sends, I didn't feel the need to chase anything else. My time in Ticino was close to an end and my mind was already drifting toward the upcoming trip to the US with Siara Fabbri. I felt satisfied and ready to take a little brake from hard projects.

In between packing and seeing friends I had one last half day in Brione and I was not sure what to do. In the end I thought 'fuck it, let's go to Deep, worst case it's good training'

I already had 10ish sessions on it, but I wasn't feeling close at all. During our very first sesh, Jek Raimondi and I could solve all the moves, but then we got stuck, with so many days similar to each other. We kept repeating moves but we could not manage the needed links to start thinking about proper send goes. Unfortunately Jek couldn't join me on Saturday, but when I showed up at the roof I had the pleasant surprise of seeing again Martin Svec (after almost 7 years!) and meeting Jana Svecova for the first time. Very good vibes, psyched to try hard and zero press.

Chris Sharma did the first ascent of Vision Quest 9a/+ in December 2024 after some 30 sessions and endless falls from 10-15 meters.

”When I’m up there, it’s just me, a GriGri, and the moves in my head. Rappelling down solo like that—it’s pure exploration, but yeah, sometimes I’m hanging absurdly high over the water, burning an hour on just a couple of moves, and thinking, What the hell am I doing up here? This is just crazy 😀

When I start climbing from the ground, I always have someone with me. I’ve taken a few 15-meter falls—those were fine—but my worst fall? Easily when I slammed on my back from 10 meters. That one was brutal.

DWS is often characterized as vacation climbing. It’s certainly super fun but it’s also seriously hard, challenging work—especially in December.

The route itself has an 8B boulder crux, followed by relentless 8b+ climbing. It might only be 28 moves, but man, they’re sustained and seriously pumpy.”

Deep Water Soloing has been practiced for close to 50 years, but it wasn’t until 2006 that the discipline gained widespread attention, following Chris Sharma’s landmark ascent of Es Pontas (9a+). The climb helped define modern DWS and set a new benchmark for the style. Since then, the 44-year-old has continued to raise the bar, establishing first ascents of Big Fish (8c+/9a), Alasha (9a), and, most recently, Black Pearl (9a+). With these ascents, Sharma has done the first ascents of the five hardest Deep Water Solo routes in the world, each of them located on the island of Mallorca.

Vojta Trojan and Eliáš Kysela have repeated Will Bosi’s Furia de Jabali (9a+) in Siurana. Trojan has previously done a dozen 9a’s and beyond and for 19-year-old Kysela, with four 9a’s to his name, it was his first 9a+.
Vojta comments, ”I first tried Furia de Jabalí in autumn 2024 and from the start it looked really promising. The style suited me and I thought it would go quickly. But things kept getting in the way and I had to come back several times. What I expected to be fast took much longer than I wanted.

This year I’d mostly been bouldering, so coming back to the rope after a while felt different, but this route worked well for that. It’s not the best or the most beautiful line I’ve ever climbed, but at some point it was simply about finishing what I’d started. Thanks to everyone who was there (often freezing) to belay and support.”

Gio Placci, who was eigth in the World Championship, has repeated Stefano Ghisolfi’s Terapia d'urto (9a+) in Arco. (c) Crimp Films

”Almost 50 days ago I suffered a bad ankle injury that forced me to stop climbing completely. Since my outdoor season is always quite short because I still want to focus mainly on competitions, this setback basically made me skip most of the winter rock season.

Before the injury, though, I was already very close to sending this short and powerful line, first freed by Steghiso a few years ago. As soon as my ankle was good enough, I couldn’t resist coming back to finish the job. Even if the route is quite low to the ground, the moves are super cool and really fun to climb. It took me three days to send it (I had already climbed the two routes that make up this route before).

My main project in Arco, Excalibur (9b+), will have to wait until next winter, when I’m planning to spend much more time outdoors. I’m also training more specifically for this route and I can’t wait to the the progress.”

Clothilde Morin, with eight 8A’s to her name, has sent Partage (8A+) in Fontainebleau. The 25-year-old finished her IFSC comp career being number five in a European Cup in 2023.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I’m really happy to have sent Partage on December 31st to finish 2025 on a high note. One of Fontainebleau’s iconic highballs, located in Buthiers, impossible to miss from the road with its 6+ meter height.

It took just over one session to get it done. By the end of the first session, spent dialing in the beta, I was already falling on the last move to the big jug. Running low on energy, I decided to come back the next day. As hoped, I sent it first try of the session.

How was it falling from so high up?
And falling from the last good hold isn’t that sketchy since the fall is super vertical, and with three solid pads you’re pretty safe. However, there are still two moves to go. They’re way easier than the crux, but you have to fully commit on hands and feet on pretty flat footholds. I’ve never fallen from up there, but if you do, you’ll definitely feel that one.

David Bermudez Carbonell, with seven 9a’s under his belt, has done Merendola (9a) in Cuenca. (c) Javi Pec

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I tried this route a bit last year and I left it relatively close. After sending El Carnicero de Rostov I started trying again Merendola in the half of december until I could send the route on the last day of the year. It's a route with a lot of endurance and sharp holds. It ends with an awkward boulder where you have to pull from an undercling that you grab from a far position.

Anna Kelley, who two months ago sent her first 8B, has done Lethal Design (8A+) in Red Rock (NV). Last year the 18-year-old was 8th in the Youth World Championship and this year her focus is the World Cup.

Can you tell us more about LD?
I actually had no intention of trying Lethal during my trip. I went to try Book of Nightmares (8A) but felt spanned out so decided to feel out the moves of Lethal. I did all the moves pretty quickly and then did some links. After, I just decided to give a try from bottom and ended up taking it to the top! I think it suites me pretty well, the biggest crux for me was fighting the pump and numbness on the top out slab.

Andrea Chelleris, who last week did his fifth 9a in 2025, starts 2026 by sending Direct into your Fabelita (9a) and Fabela pa la enmienda (9a) in Santa Linya. ”1st 9a of the year 2026. Wow legs and arms got so pumped, such a good route 2x 9a in the same day🔥.”

Can you tell us more about the two 9a’s?
Today at first I didn’t even want to climb because it was my third day in a row and the skin wasn’t that good, but the weather forecast wasn’t good for the next days, so I decided to give it a last day before going home as it was going to be rainy. In the warm-up I felt okay, then I went for Fabela pa la Enmienda, which is a 125-move beast. After the chain from Fabela I could rest well for the last part. When I arrived at the crux (100–105 moves from the ground) I was a bit tired but not as much as the last two times, so I made it through. I rested again just before the last 10-move push, and later I clipped the chain 😁

After 2 hours of rest I did a little activation on the hangboard and cleaned the first crux, waited another 20 minutes, but I failed. I got back on the ground, rested 40 minutes for the last try before dark. I was tired but psych was high, so I screamed on my way up through the crux, rested as much as I could to be sure that I could be fresh enough for the cruxes of Fabelita.

Gianluca Vighetti has had a great trip to Isili which begun with a one day ascent of Terzo Tempo (8c+), that took it down from 9a. Later he did the FA of Not so Isili (9a+) and Nara Cixiri (9a). “I propose 8c+/9a for this line, slightly harder than Terzo Tempo. It starts on Terzo Tempo than it goes all the way up-right until before the last crux of Halloween.”

Can you tell us more about your 9a+ FA?
After doing Terzo Tempo I asked if there were some lines that still waited for the first ascent. Not so Isili was the real ultimate hard route of Isili. It connects the crux of "Terzo Tempo" with the crux of "La signora con La Falce 8c" with a really long and pumpy traverse in the middle. I think this route could be 9a+, maybe a soft one because I felt it a little bit easier than Lapsus but it is much more my style.

Simon Lorenzi reports on Instagram that he has repeated Sean Bailey’s Shaolin (9A) in First Creek Canyon. The 28-year-old has previously done the FA of Soudain seul (9A), repeated Alphane (9A), Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) and Burden of Dreams (9A). Including some 8C+’, the active competition climber has the most impressive boulder tick list in the world together with Will Bosi. (c) Yulen Calleja

”Shaolin was my main goal of the trip; I had tried it a little last year and trained specifically to be ready and fit! Everything went super smoothly. It’s the first time a 9A has worked like this for me: at every session I was making progress, without rushing, just staying patient until everything clicked. It was also much easier mentally than last year, because I was with my friends, we had an Airbnb, we were comfortable, joking around outside the boulder. The whole experience was really enjoyable!”