8 January 2026

Gio Placci does Tearapia Dโ€™Urto (9a+)

Gio Placci, who was eigth in the World Championship, has repeated Stefano Ghisolfiโ€™s Terapia d'urto (9a+) in Arco. (c) Crimp Films

โ€Almost 50 days ago I suffered a bad ankle injury that forced me to stop climbing completely. Since my outdoor season is always quite short because I still want to focus mainly on competitions, this setback basically made me skip most of the winter rock season.

Before the injury, though, I was already very close to sending this short and powerful line, first freed by Steghiso a few years ago. As soon as my ankle was good enough, I couldnโ€™t resist coming back to finish the job. Even if the route is quite low to the ground, the moves are super cool and really fun to climb. It took me three days to send it (I had already climbed the two routes that make up this route before).

My main project in Arco, Excalibur (9b+), will have to wait until next winter, when Iโ€™m planning to spend much more time outdoors. Iโ€™m also training more specifically for this route and I canโ€™t wait to the the progress.โ€
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