Siara Fabbri has done Toy Boy (8A+) in Val di Mello. "Great day out with Simo and good psyche/send train with Kim! Dialled the 2nd crux beta then sent, really nice line and movement!" (c) Simone Tentori

What's the climbing like on Toy Boy?
Toyboy is a really fun line traversing a smooth crimpy crack feature in a roof and then into some easier overhanging climbing. The 1st crux is a cool move off a small slopey crimp with a sort of double drop knee and tiny upside-down toe hook, and the 2nd crux is a tricky cross move. I fell here on my flash go during my first quick session on it. We came back and after dialling the beta here and with some send train psyche after Kim I sent 2nd try :). A little lesson I took from this block is that I should always tick a far/hard-to-reach hold at the closest point I can grab something!

Lujza Michalkova and Sara Šimekova have done Forever More sit start (8A+) in Brione. (c) Ado Capko

Sara (in the picture): The first time I touched this boulder I knew it was finally something made for me. The first time I was in Brione was last fall. I climbed here my first 7A, first 7B even my first 7C, all in one week. This place is magical for me. When I came a week ago with our team, I just wanted to climb as many 7B and 7C's as possible. But my plan didn't really work, there was always one move missing. I was frustrated and I just wanted to try something that I will enjoy. One girl recommended me Forever more, but I didn't believe I can climb 8A.

After the week of nothing I just wanted to try the moves and didn't care about the grade or the ascent. After a while, I had almost all the moves. I was shocked. I struggled for a while with the mantle, but after a few tries, I found my beta. The only move missing was this dynamic move to the small crimp. After a few really close tries, I stuck it and continued climbing. This was the stand 8A version. I tried the Sit start afterwards but my skin was too bad to give it a proper try.
We came there again on the next day after a rest day. The first try was just warming up. On the second try I stuck the hard move and went up. But my leg slipped when I was going up. On the third try, I was able to climb this boulder. Now I am preparing for European competitions. I am trying to find some sponsors that would help me on my way.

Lujza: I tried the boulder Forever more on Saturday for the first time, because my friend Sára Šimeková suggested it. Even though I didn't have much hope, cause I was ill and pretty tired, I just went for it and tried it again and again. The mantel went pretty quickly (2nd try), but the first two moves were the real deal. You have to take two crimps, push into your foot in the opposite direction while being almost in a horizontal position and cross over with your right hand to a crimpy pinch. After this you have to pinch it hard, put your right foot higher, do a bad toehook with your left and do a long move to the next crimp, concentrating on the right foot to stay on the wall. I managed to do the stand start (8A, basically the 8A+ without the first move) and wanted to do the sit start as well, because I did all the moves, but it got dark and we didn't have time nor energy anymore.

We're climbing 1+1, meaning we have one climbing day and then one restday, so on Sunday we rested, did some school stuff and took a hike. Monday was the day, I knew it, just my skin didn't feel like it. We warmed up, the conditions were good and it was time. Or maybe not... I kept falling in the second move, slipping of the crimp with my left hand. Slowly my ring finger started bleeding, then index finger and then my middle finger. All taped up I tried it more times and suddenly I just stuck it. And when I stick the problem I never let go of the rock, so there it was, after that big fight, I sent it. All the pain in my fingers and my muscles went magically away and all I felt was happiness :)

Claudia Ghisolfi, who last September did her first 9a, and placed in the top ten at a Lead World Cup, has done Premiere (8c) in .

Can you tell us more about Premiere?
I'm not in good shape and I didn't want to try hard routes now. But my boyfriend (Alessio Voghera) told me to try that route with him and on Saturday we did it together! It isn't a hard 8c because when Stefano, (my brother) did the first ascent he didn't use the kneepad. But I'm happy even if it isn't hard because in the past October, I fractured my heel slamming against the wall and It was hard to find the right confidence to climb without fear of falling

What are your 2023 competition plans?
Now I'm training hard in the week to prepare for the comps that start at the end of May with the Italian Lead Championship but at the weekend I always climb outside. It's important to me to climb outside even if it isn't considered "training".

Do you have any Olympic aspirations?
Yes, I'll compete in one boulder world cup 🤞🏻

Matt Fultz, has pulled off the first repeat of Aidan Robert’s Vecchio Leone Sit (8C+) in Brione, making it his seventh ascent of that grade.

Can you tell us more about your latest 8C+?
I’m just very blessed to be able to climb in such a beautiful place and be in good shape. I didn’t expect to get caught up with this problem before the trip but it really drew me in with its complex moves and positions. In total it took 8 working sessions and is the first problem of this difficulty I’ve done outside the United States, although I’m hoping to do more this year!

Jules Marchaland, who did First Ley (9a+) in February, has repeated Pierre Le Cerf's Just two fix (9a) in Gorges du Loup. Last year, the 21-year-old took silver at the only Euro Youth Cup he did. After that comp the 20-year-old did three World Cups, always placing in the top 20, in addition to sending his first three 9a’s.

Can you tell us more about your latest 9a?
This route is about 35m! (So long for me haha) The first part is Just One Fix (8c+), "soft", and after a very good rest you have a physical end with brutal move and endurance ! For the progress: I did the first part in 2017! And last year I tried the second pitch! I think I fell 5-6 times at the last hard move and this year I came back stronger and I did it on my 2nd try.

What are your comp plans in 2023?
The main goals are the french championship! I have from last year's results, qualified to do the Chamonix and Briancon World Cups and I hope I can do the start of the season!

William Bosi has been live-streaming three, out of five, sessions on Nalle Hukkataival's Burden of Dreams, 9A in Finland. He's making solid progress and he's also found some new beta. Toru Nakajima is also in Finland trying BoD for the fourth time and says, on Insta. "Honestly, I was somehow shocked at how strong Will is."Will recently decided to extended his trip and continues his battle. In this 8a ranking game, the 24-year-old is #1 with the highest score ever achieved in Boulder. (c) Band of Birds

How and how much time have you put into preparing yourself for, Burden of Dreams?
Overall I worked ten sessions on the replica before coming out. Currently, I am five sessions in on the boulder but the sessions are limited due to skin management as the granite is pretty brutal on my fingers! I can train on the boulder with tape but I think I will need all the skin I can get for the send!

What have you learned from climbing with Adam Ondra?
I think the overall takeaway from training and climbing with Adam is just sheer joy for all kinds of climbing. He is a master at so many different styles and despite all that he has achieved, his fire and love for training and climbing are as bright as ever. It is utterly inspiring.

What are your plans for 2023 and what would be your "burden of dream" ascents beyond this one?
[Yes,] Obviously right now my focus is on climbing Burden of Dreams in Finland but I am hoping to travel to the USA later in the year to explore some lines out there!

Could the comp scene and format change in any way that would make you, and perhaps even others more psyched to take part?
That is difficult to say as there is such a range of opinions on the comp scene at the moment. Fundamentally, as the profile of the sport rises, so does the pressure on athletes to succeed. I would most welcome focussed improvements on athlete wellbeing at all levels from grassroots through to senior level. Competitions should be a memorable and positive part of any athlete's career as opposed to something which could at worst make them fall out of love with the sport or cause lasting physical and mental harm.

Filmmaker, Matt Bird is in Finland with Bosi and adds, "So if you break down the 5 moves, he has done all the moves on the boulder so he is now on links. I saw him do the link from the end of the foot-walk to the top so just first move and foot-walk to tack on. All perfectly possible...and yet.... Honestly, from filming it, it is going to be a roll of the dice for whoever gets up it. (8a: Also Shawn Raboutou and Stefano Ghisolfi will be trying it this week). Everything from weather to skin, to shoe condition, to mentality comes into play and that is on top of immaculate technique and requisite strength. It's the perfect encapsulation of bouldering at the highest level for me. Impossible for people outside climbing to fully comprehend the madness of it all but utterly compelling for those invested in bouldering at the upper limits. He could do it this week or in three years time 😂 such is the nature of the game."

Solveig Korherr, who over the last six weeks, has done several 8A boulders and an 8c route, has been on a trad trip to Cadarese, where she sent two 8a's and onsighted a 7c. As she previously has done both a 9a route and an 8A+ boulder, she's edging towards being a top multi-discipline free climber. (c) Francesco Zanuso


Can you tell us about your trad experience and how you benefit from being a multi-discipline climber?
As I’m still rather new to trad and crack climbing, spending two weeks in Cadarese was a great learning experience for me. The granite cracks in Cadarese were definitely a bit more forgiving than in Indian Creek where I spent a little bit of time too. As they are more features outside of the cracks, I could get away with my sport climbing skills a lot more. Climbing The doors (8a) was a big highlight for me. It is very outstanding and varied line as it changes crack sizes. The lower part was quite pumpy for me. I was laybacking most of it because my fingers didn’t quite lock in the crack and I’m still not very good at ring lock technique but luckily the crack got thinner at the top. As I was still a bit scared of trusting my gear and I placed almost too much and it cost a lot of time. In the end, it was a huge fight, especially because the hardest move comes at the end after 30 meters of climbing. I was really happy when I reached the anchor and felt super fatigued just giving everything.

Another epic and memorable fight on this trip. was Bookcacke (7c+). I think my legs have never been this pumped before😄 It was really cool to experience some open dihedral climbing. This one felt super hard to me compared to some other climbs in Cadarese. Big thanks to Jon for telling me to persevere more after I didn’t quite understand how to climb the top part at the beginning & showing me the kneebar wisdom.

I love how trad climbing is not only physically but also mentally challenging. There is still a lot to learn for me and I’m motivated to do more trad climbing trips in the future. Since I’ve been mainly focusing on sport climbing over the last few years, it was great to branch out into other disciplines as well. So far, it has been a very good experience for me. It is nice to change it up for motivation and climb whatever is best in the area.

I definitely learned to be more patient. For example, when I crack climbed for the first time, it was really frustrating at the beginning, but in the end, when I lowered my expectations, I started to have a lot of fun and got better at it. Now, I even get really psyched when I can find a hand jam or finger lock in a sport route. It’s definitely harder to maintain a high level in every discipline, especially in sport climbing, where I have the highest expectations, but bouldering and sport climbing can work quite well together. After spending a lot of time bouldering in Ticino this winter, I felt quite strong, even on the sport climbs. I just chose some shorter routes for the beginning. Bouldering definitely taught me to persevere more, even when moves seem impossible at the beginning, and not give up too quickly. I’m hoping that I can transfer that to my sport climbing.

In general, in between rock climbing trips, I always like to do some training cycles to maintain a high level, and I learned that if I want to do multiple disciplines, I have to give my body some time to get in shape for whatever I’m motivated for or what my goal is. In the end, it makes me a much more varied and better climber. For now, I’m back in the gym trying to build some fitness for some lead climbing projects.

Aidan Roberts, who in October, made a relatively quick repeat of Alphane (9A) has done the FA of Unison, (8C) in Brione. Insta video. Yesterday, photographer Vladek Zumr dropped the news that Aidan, also pulled off a flash FA of X,Y and Z, 8A+. "The other guys, (Giuliano Cameroni, James Pearson and Nathan Phillips) tried a few times before him, so he saw the lower moves, and then he just crushed it (about an hour after his FA Unison). He's just on another level and a really humble guy.”

Niccolo Ceria added a post that sheds more light on the aesthetic and committing, X,Y and Z. It was envisioned by first Bernd Zangerl who tried it and showed it to Ceria. Four years ago, Ceria re-cleaned and tried it a bit, and with the support of Aiden and a formidable group stoking the fire, Ceria made the fourth repeat . " The climb style also deserves to be mentioned: a simple and basic crimpy sequence leads you to a very high foot placement where you have to shift your body weight to the left, go as low as you can with your hips and bring the right foot on a faint rail to finally cross your hand on the last edge. It took me a while to figure this beta out when I came back for some proper attempts."

Dai Koyamada first made headlines in 1998 when he was #4 in a Lead World Cup. After quitting the comp circuit, he did his first 9a in 2002 and the next year he did his first 8C boulder. In total, over the last 20 years he has done over 35 8C’s and most of them are FAs.

The 46-year-old's latest 8C creation is Mugen in Hinohara. He started the project by spending five days building the landing platform made of hundred of sticks, Insta picture plus video, Insta video. "One thing is clear: this problem is great. One of the best problems in my life."

Radek Votocek did five 8c+ graded routes last year and Rock Erotic (8c+) in Geyikbayırı was his hardest, as it's officially (8c+/9a).

Lukáš Černý has put together the video and says, "I had the pleasure to film with Radek during my Christmas trip, and I was able to record some more of his new entries in his climbing diary. In the video, you can even look at his most difficult journey. In addition, you will find out when he began to train systematically, what the other climbers initially thought of him, or how he feels about climbing on sandstone."