Stephan Vogt has done Power of now 8B+ and End of Story (8c+) in Magic Wood. The 29-year-old German has previously done two 9a's and also two 8C's. (c) Friederike Traub

Can you tell us more about these latest sends?
After two very intense months filled with lots of route setting and filmmaking, I decided to return to Magic Wood. A place very dear to my heart. The plan was to focus on a few climbs I always wanted to do. When climbing „Stil for Talent“ (fb8C) and „Never Ending Story 1+2+3“(9a) in 2021 I already saw this beautiful yet intimidating line going from the Jug of Never Ending Story slightly left and up to the top of the Bruno Block. In my opinion, this is the best and most logical ropeless way up, and it seems crazy that no one had climbed it yet. When I arrived here a few weeks ago I heard that Josh Cornah did the first ascent last year. I checked it out on the rope and sent it quickly after relearning the lower parts. This line has about 25+ moves so I think giving it 8c+ as a lead grade makes most sense, for it feels slightly easier than the right exit, which gets 9a. It also feels a lot easier than „Stil for Talent“ so if you were to give it a boulder grade I think 8B+ sounds fair considering that the first two parts are low end 8B+.

Two Years ago I also had a good session on „Power of Now“ in my opinion one of the best boulders in the forest. First Ascended by Giuliano Cameroni. So naturally this one was on my list as well. Pretty happy to see that my winter training with Gabriel Prange seems to have helped with becoming a more powerful climber. In my second session this trip I finally stuck the first hard move which I could not do last time. A few sessions later I found myself on top of this amazing boulder. Good trip so far. Can't wait so see what the next week will bring before returning to Germany.

”During the IFSC Executive Board meeting yesterday, 5 July 2023, the IFSC took note of the resignations submitted by the Medical and Antidoping Commission Chair, Eugen Burtscher (AUT) and member, Volker Schoeffl (GER) and thank them for their service to the sport and athletes’ health. The Executive Board gave full support to the remaining members of the Medical Commission and to the IFSC Sport Department to deliver on approved IFSC Executive Board protocols.” Here you can read the IFSC statement.

8a asked Volker Schöffl, who just resigned from the IFSC Medical Commission, due to the "non-action of IFSC", in regard to RED-S problems of the athletes, to comment on the new IFSC statement.

"Well, it just shows that they do not get the message, continue the way they treat it and do not take internal consequences. Disappointing. Also, it just causes me to worry even more. We have made a very detailed plan and worked on this for months. Nevertheless, they always delay it… or don't want to take real action. Thanks for taking up the topic.”

Could you say something about the plan especially if it includes something practical which can easily be understood?
The plan was: to screen for low BMI/MI. Athletes under a certain threshold would be considered and needed to hand in medical tests, eg lan, bone mineral density, etc, as well as psychological evaluation and questionnaire for reds and eating disorders. These medical health data would undergo medical evaluation in accordance with a scoring system developed with IOC Medcom guidance. Then they would get graded; Green, Yellow, and Red. Red, meaning the risk for athletes' health or psyche IFSC would be supposed to not allow competing for a certain time. It is quite easy. A lot of work went into establishing the evaluation parameters. Everything was finalised from our side weeks ago. No further action was done by IFSC, delayed the process, and did not communicate. MI is mass index which is a fairer version of BMI. Had lots and lots of external specialist opinions etc considered. While BMI/MI has its flaws it is still the easiest ubiquitous accessible tool, also proposed by WHO. It is not used to disqualify anyone, just a filter to see who may have a problem.

In Schöffl's own words on Instagram:
"As a consequence of the non-action of the IFSC I resign with immediate effect from my voluntary position in the IFSC Medical Commission.

Hereby I am drawing the same consequence as our MedCom president [Eugen Burtscher]. We share the opinion that as medical doctors we can no longer accept the non-action of the IFSC concerning the RED-S problems of our athletes.

I have been a #MedCom member since the inauguration of the IFSC in 2009. During that time frame we achieved many goals for the well-being of our athletes. However, the current politics with regards to RED-S cannot be accepted. We have worked for more than 10 years on the topic. We have collected numerous data, have measured BMI/MI at every WorldCup last year and have developed very profound plans how to detect and help athletes with such problems. We have spent many hours in meetings and on the desk establishing a new and better system of monitoring and decision making. As a consequence, we now have the most profound data on this matter of all sport disciplines. We have pointed out the problem and possible solutions to the sports director and board continuously and repeatedly. However, the only acknowledgement we have received has consisted of defamation and discouragement. In short, the IFSC may not be willing at all to undertake further action regarding this important health issue of its athletes and is acitvely delaying and slowing down any decisions that could lead to much needed action.

As medical doctors we cannot accept this any longer. Sport climbing has a RED-S problem. Possible solutions to detect, evaluate and help critical athletes were developed through the Medical Commission. These solutions have been and are being ignored. No further action is taken by the IFSC.

For the wellbeeing of our athletes and the development of this sport, I cannot take any responsibility on this matter and am forced to resign.

Many thanks to my long-time colleagues and friends in the Medical Commission for their work and efforts, especially to our president Dr.Eugen Burtscher. I hope this step may help the cause and our athletes but I know it won‘t."

Volker Schöffl – climbing doctor

Max Bertone, little brother to Oriane who did his first 8c+in 2019 at age 12, has done his first 9a, TCT, at Gravere, video. "3rd attempt. I fell at the last move at the 2nd one, so I was almost sure to send the route this time. Felt soft but it's the first for me and I don't have enough experience to propose a personal grade. Great line!"

You just pulled off a third try 9a ascent?
🤣 I actually did it in 3 days, I had only 1 try per day because of the crimps hurting my fingers. The first attempt was close to 1 hour! I didn’t watch any videos so I had to find the beta myself.

What are your summer plans?
My summer plan is to continue climbing outdoors around Briançon, and maybe participate in the World Cup in Briançon if I’m taken [selected] 🤞.

Last year, Max won the Youth World Championship and this year he has won the two Euro Youth Cups he has participated in. When it comes to bouldering, he has done five 8B's and he was #4 and #5 in the Euro Cups last year. (c) Tom Redfern

Vojta Trojan has sent Condé de choc (9a) in Entraygues. "5th go - 100% my style, hard boulder into really good climbing on the top. 3rd preclipped!" (c) Emile Pino

This was his sixth 9a in the last year and now having a total of eleven, it won't be a surprise if even harder sends are on the horizon.

Can you tell us more about Condé? Do you have a 9a+ on your radar?
I’ve tried the route once, when I was here 3 weeks ago for La moustache qui fâche (9a+). This time I came here but the top-out of Moustache was all wet so I went for Condé once again and sent it surprisingly quickly. The main objective is still Qui Fache Moustache and I hope to finish it this trip!

Sera Gearhart has logged her first 8B, Evil Backwards in Mt Evans. "I thought I'd do this boulder quickly because everyone told me I was doing the hard part. Turns out, that just wasn't the crux for me! Hardest move on this boulder was the cross in the "v9" outro. I'm really proud for seeing it through when it got epic. Shout-out to Tay for being the kindest and most supportive when I was really down on myself. On to the next."

Last week, 8a reported that she had given Carnage (8B) a personal 8A+ grade. Up until 2022, she had only done three 8A's, but over the last 18 months she's done 21 boulders 8A to 8B.

How would you explain your great gains over the last 1.5 years?
I really changed my approach to climbing about 2 years ago! Taylor [McNeill] was a huge influence. I started focusing more on specific goals rather than climbing as much as I could. I stopped training and rested way more and really started to focus on my mentality and tactics. I started climbing almost exclusively outside. I'm excited to take what I have learned and try adding a bit more strength and training back into my approach this summer, maybe it will lead to more of a level up!

Skibidi Rizz God has done Carnage (8B) in Guanella Pass and Evil Backwards (8B) in Mt Blue Sky. In the 8a junior ranking game, the 13-year-old is #2.

His brother and coach, Samuel, who just did his first 8B+, Warrior up, has filled us in on Becket''s approach to climbing.

"Beckett started climbing with me when I transitioned to climbing from gymnastics. For a couple of years, it was nothing more than a hobby. When he was 9, however, he had a season where he made Divionals and Nationals for the first time, both in the same season. That was maybe the first time that really got him interested in trying to get better. The following year, he had a better season making finals at Nationals, which is when he realized that he had really improved.

That got him very excited to continue training harder, which really kicked off when I started training a small group of a few focused athletes during Covid, including him. Then, shortly following, I started to take him climbing outside. He learned to lead climb and a couple of weeks later, I took Beckett to Rifle Mountain Park, where he did his first 5.12s. Then, last spring, I think he really started to see the fruits of his training pay off when he did his first 7C+ boulder and then started coming on alpine trips with me week to week. He realized his strength when he started to climb hard boulders, which only fueled his motivation to train even harder.

The last year I really saw that passion for trying hard push him. He's told me that his goal is to really find what his limit is, and push that. He's very hard on himself when he doesn't think he's doing enough though. As his coach, I want to help him achieve his goals. But, especially as his older brother, I also want him to be able to love the sport as long as possible. So helping him keep his expectations in check is important. I write training for him. He trains on his own, and he trains hard. He also takes every opportunity to get outside he can get. Our dad has been a great support in this, giving up many weekends to take him to whatever his latest project is. I've been really grateful to climb with Beckett so much in the last year and look forward to all the years of going out with him and our younger brother, Asher, to come."

Akira Waku, who at age 48 did Hydrangea (8C) in 2019 , has repeated Ryuichi Murai's Birth of the Cool (8B+) in Shiobara. Waku started climbing at 35 and didn't have any previous sports background. As there was no gym around he built one which he still runs.

Can you tell us more about your second 8C?
The number of working days was 5 days in 2021, 30 days in 2022, and 7 days in 2023, for a total of 42 days. Every single move of the original part up to where it joins Karamba was difficult. At first, I couldn't link them at all. In the second half of 2022, all the moves were finally solved and the connection try started. In 2023, a stoic weight loss and conditioning went well, and as soon as I entered awakening mode, I was able to break through the core stability, and I was able to send it.

How do you train?
Training is mainly 3 hours 2-3 times a week of finger and weight training with the beast maker and fingerboard at home. I don't go to the gym very often. I go outdoors on weekends.

Currently, the 52-year-old is working Nexus (8C+) which is a harder variation and in this video we can see he is pretty close sending it. Ryuichi Murai did the FA and it is still unrepeated. "It will be a line that connects to the 8B+ that I climbed the other day after doing 10 moves of 8B to 8B+ with my own moves. It's a long line with a total of 40 moves. I started trying it immediately after climbing the 8B+. It seemed like I could climb with a good feeling, but the season where I could exert my strength has come to an end. In Japan, July is the rainy season and the rocks get wet. July and August are summer months, with temperatures exceeding 30°C. The next season will start in September when it gets cooler. Until then, keep training."

In the female and male Combined national ranking, Japan is #1 with 4 870 points, followed by Austria with 4 399 and Slovenia with 4372 points. Complete National Team Ranking.

Noteworthy is that Jakob Schubert will not do the two upcoming World Cups in Chamonix and Briancon as his focus is the World Championship in Bern in August. The same goes for Tomoa Narasaki. Furthermore, neither Adam Ondra nor Alex Megos is registered for Briancon.