"Angelino Zeller is a three-time world champion in climbing. He is paralyzed from the waist down due to a paragliding accident. Angelino has always been active and has also worked professionally as an industrial climber. However, when he returned to indoor climbing during rehab after his accident, a spark ignited. He began to train regularly and to master climbing without using his legs. When climbing, he works solely with his upper body strength to gain momentum to perform the next one-arm pull-up through targeted swinging, a true tour de force. The Sarree2000 route in the Aosta Valley is his next project. Italian professional climber Stefano Ghisolfi climbed this 8a+ route back in 2015 without using his feet, simply to prove that it can be done.

Drew Ruana did the first repeat of Daniel Woods' The Ice Knife (sit-start) (8C+) last year.

Molly Thompson-Smith flashed Verna (8A) and sent three more 8A's last month, which we followed with an interview.

Zach Galla has sent Sound of Violence (8C) in Left Fork. ”I’ve tried sound of violence on and off ever since I was able to climb the right exit, Pegasus (8C), about 2 years ago. I was always under the impression that Sound was the easier way out the roof but it gave me a good bit more trouble.

What did you mean on Instagram reporting the ascent saying, “Kicked off my training deload/soul climbing”?
I’ve recently been on a heavy comp training grind in preparation for the pan american championship coming up later this month and decided to lower my training volume and enjoy some rock climbing for a week before locking myself back in the gym. The body and mind are now reset and I’m stoked for the Pan ams!

In 2020, Zach was runner-up in Pan-Am Championship after Colin Duffy, where he was beaten by one try to the zone on one boulder. The winner of the Panamerican Championship 2023 will get an Olympic ticket to Paris.

Theo Blass has made the first repeat of Seb Bouin’s La Folle Histoire Immonde 8c+/9a in Thaurac. The wonderkid did his first 8c at age 10 and over a year ago he sent Trip tik tonik (9a). Photo (c) Laurent Dormont

”The route is a real gem - a long steep route on tufas, crimps and slopers with beautiful and powerful moves - it has many hard sections with more or less good rests between. It is located in Thaurac, one of the mostly old school areas around Montpellier (think desperate run-out 7As on tiny crimps and shallow pockets with polished foodholds).

It has many hard sections separated by more or less good rests and a final bouldery crux on bad crimps. I first tried the route a couple of years ago when I was 11. I was making good progress at the time but a low percentage move in the middle (which is really hard when you are short) frustrated me and I gave the route and myself a break. I did not try it for a couple of years and then got back on it a month ago. It was still very hot in the area so I only had the time to do a couple of tries per session. I quickly realised that, being stronger and taller than 2 years ago meant that the route was much more fun to try - I did all the moves and sections easily and after 2-3 sessions was ready to give it a red point try.

The mental battle took another 2-3 sessions (I was so anxious before the final crux that I was feeling nauseous and did not even want to fight). I guess I needed some time to readjust to the pressure of trying long hard sport routes (I was mainly bouldering or doing easier routes during the summer). On the day of the send, I was feeling weightless. I understand exactly what people mean by "flow" or being in the zone. I was climbing with my body in the sun and the rock still in the shade. Such an amazing feeling.

It is great fun to try an old project when you are older and your body has changed. Sometimes I think that moves that I did as a child may feel harder if I try them as I grow up (as the holds will be smaller and I will be heavier). But the reality is that with more reach, power and experience almost all the routes now feel much easier (probably except for tiny pockets, but I never really liked climbing on pockets - its boring).”

Janja Garnbret reports on Instagram that she on her first day, "From the beach straight to Magic Wood", sent Sofa Surfer (8A+), Foxy Lady (8A), Octopussy (8A) and Jack's broken heart (8A+). The latter she flashed and then then just the other day she made "quick work" of Massive Attack (8A+). We also have been informed that she has done New base line (8B+), which she has yet to report.

Since Janja took home the Olympic Gold in Tokyo she has done 20 IFSC competitions, out of which she has won 17 and been runner-up three times. The 24-year-old won her first world championship in 2016 and in total, she has won eight more. On rock, the Slovenian has done two 9a's, onsighted four 8c's and bouldered 8B+.

Andrine Skilbrei, who this spring did her first 8c+, has sent The Troll Hammer (8c) in Flatanger. (c) Andrea Cossu

"I’ve not been climbing much lately as I am working on my master’s, so I was a bit surprised I was in the shape to do it in what little time I actually spent in the cave climbing. Because of my limited time to climb I choose this route mostly to have something to get in shape on as I have done the first part Dvergtrollet (8a+) a couple of years back, and I’ve also been up in the upper part a couple of times before and really liked the climbing up there.

In the end it turned out quite well for me, I felt little pressure and just enjoyed getting out of the house and climbing a bit, not really caring too much if I sent or not. Not to say I wasn't really happy when I did it!”

Christof Rauch, who already has fourteen 8C’s to his name, has done Foundations Edge (8C) in Fionnay. The 29-year-old is approaching 1 000 boulders 8A and harder but during the last 12 months he has “only” done 61 and this was his first 8C in 18 months.

“This one means a lot to me! I had a few trips over the last years and around 10 sessions on the boulder. This year I finally did it, first day back at it. It feels amazing and somehow surreal to close this chapter and climb one of my dream lines! Syked! Onto the next!

Solid work! You've been a little quiet up until now this year. What else have you been up to?
[It's] Probably due to work, building a house and some small injuries [I've had]. At the moment I also have a small finger injury on my right index finger. I can’t do some things but finally feel in a quite good shape again. Another problem is that I don’t have many cool boulder projects left around my home. I still work full time and also have a week of beeing on call for work every 5 weeks, so I can’t travel on these weekends."

Can you tell us more about Foundation and the challenge it posed?
[Ever] Since I saw the video of the first ascent by Dave Graham I was inspired by the line. A few years later, in 2019, I had my first trip to Fionnay. Back then I wanted to do some easier boulders but couldn’t resist to check out the moves of „Foundations Edge“. To my surprise it went not so bad and I managed to do all the moves and already some small links. The weather was against us that trip and I couldn’t go back for another session. Syke was high and I went back the next year. This time I felt better on the moves and managed to climb it in 2 parts. Sadfully the weather turned bad again and I only had 2 days on the climb.

2022 I decided to go back for another round. The weather was better but still a bit too warm for my taste. I came really close to send it that time but went home empty handed. With the boulder in my mind I just had to go for another trip a few weeks later. This time the conditions were better and I came painfully close, it feels like I should have sent it but my mind played against me. I was nervous, made mistakes and just wanted it too bad.

One year later it was time to go back, I planned some days to get the moves dialed again and even another trip later to have more chances. After a long drive I already realized at the warmup on the fingerboard that I feel pretty strong, then I immediately made some big links. First real try I fell on the last really hard move, mind-games kicked in again and I got really nervous. Then I had some medium good tries were I felt strong but always made some small mistakes. I knew I could do it, I only had to calm down a bit.

So I really focused on that and went for it. I climbed not perfectly but somehow still stayed on the wall. After the crux I almost messed it up due to hesitation and then I almost messed it up going to the jug. Climbing the easier but high topout felt amazing. I finally did it, first day of the season, I couldn’t believe it! Syked!

Samuel Ometz has sent X integral (9a+) in Gottreux, which was put up by Dylan Chuat in July. "It finally worked! Such a great variety of grips and climbing styles. Flat crimps and power endurance at the start, medium rest, hard compression boulder on open grips, bad rest, pinchy boulder, top. Lost count of the number of days, ~20-30 counting the tries in the shocker (9a) and Satire (8c+)."

Can you tell us more about this line?
X Integral is a combination of 'Satire' and 'The schocker'. The shocker is the 1st route I tried and which took 5 days this year. Then I tried and climbed 'les boules à Berty', 'bad reputation' and 'satire' in the next ~10 sessions. Then focused on 'X integral' for the next ~15 sessions. All together this cliff kept me busy most of the summer which was great! I really hope that other strong climbers will come as the routes are really good, is easily accessible and has many days of good conditions even in the summer heat :)

Matty Hong did Biographie (9a+) in Céüse in May and here is the 8a interview.