10 October 2023
Theo Blass, 13, does La Folle Histoire Immonde 8c+/9a
Theo Blass has made the first repeat of Seb Bouinโs La Folle Histoire Immonde 8c+/9a in Thaurac. The wonderkid did his first 8c at age 10 and over a year ago he sent Trip tik tonik (9a). Photo (c) Laurent Dormont
โThe route is a real gem - a long steep route on tufas, crimps and slopers with beautiful and powerful moves - it has many hard sections with more or less good rests between. It is located in Thaurac, one of the mostly old school areas around Montpellier (think desperate run-out 7As on tiny crimps and shallow pockets with polished foodholds).
It has many hard sections separated by more or less good rests and a final bouldery crux on bad crimps. I first tried the route a couple of years ago when I was 11. I was making good progress at the time but a low percentage move in the middle (which is really hard when you are short) frustrated me and I gave the route and myself a break. I did not try it for a couple of years and then got back on it a month ago. It was still very hot in the area so I only had the time to do a couple of tries per session. I quickly realised that, being stronger and taller than 2 years ago meant that the route was much more fun to try - I did all the moves and sections easily and after 2-3 sessions was ready to give it a red point try.
The mental battle took another 2-3 sessions (I was so anxious before the final crux that I was feeling nauseous and did not even want to fight). I guess I needed some time to readjust to the pressure of trying long hard sport routes (I was mainly bouldering or doing easier routes during the summer). On the day of the send, I was feeling weightless. I understand exactly what people mean by "flow" or being in the zone. I was climbing with my body in the sun and the rock still in the shade. Such an amazing feeling.
It is great fun to try an old project when you are older and your body has changed. Sometimes I think that moves that I did as a child may feel harder if I try them as I grow up (as the holds will be smaller and I will be heavier). But the reality is that with more reach, power and experience almost all the routes now feel much easier (probably except for tiny pockets, but I never really liked climbing on pockets - its boring).โ
โThe route is a real gem - a long steep route on tufas, crimps and slopers with beautiful and powerful moves - it has many hard sections with more or less good rests between. It is located in Thaurac, one of the mostly old school areas around Montpellier (think desperate run-out 7As on tiny crimps and shallow pockets with polished foodholds).
It has many hard sections separated by more or less good rests and a final bouldery crux on bad crimps. I first tried the route a couple of years ago when I was 11. I was making good progress at the time but a low percentage move in the middle (which is really hard when you are short) frustrated me and I gave the route and myself a break. I did not try it for a couple of years and then got back on it a month ago. It was still very hot in the area so I only had the time to do a couple of tries per session. I quickly realised that, being stronger and taller than 2 years ago meant that the route was much more fun to try - I did all the moves and sections easily and after 2-3 sessions was ready to give it a red point try.
The mental battle took another 2-3 sessions (I was so anxious before the final crux that I was feeling nauseous and did not even want to fight). I guess I needed some time to readjust to the pressure of trying long hard sport routes (I was mainly bouldering or doing easier routes during the summer). On the day of the send, I was feeling weightless. I understand exactly what people mean by "flow" or being in the zone. I was climbing with my body in the sun and the rock still in the shade. Such an amazing feeling.
It is great fun to try an old project when you are older and your body has changed. Sometimes I think that moves that I did as a child may feel harder if I try them as I grow up (as the holds will be smaller and I will be heavier). But the reality is that with more reach, power and experience almost all the routes now feel much easier (probably except for tiny pockets, but I never really liked climbing on pockets - its boring).โ
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