Your premium source when it comes to route setting, gym management and the world of indoor climbing is back for the sixth year in a row! Researched by experts, written for enthusiasts.

Inside this issue:

Creating SPACE in Wartime Ukraine –The story of a gym network that remains open to climbing during the war

Prehab for routesetters –Professional advice from climbing specialist physios and doctors

Gym Spotlight –Gaswerk, an in-depth look at how a DIY gym grew to become one of the world's largest and then sprouted new locations.

Progress in Padding – The past, present and future of that cushion we often take for granted

+ the winners of the Route Setter Magazine photo contest, route setter and gym expert interviews and the latest products from top brands and suppliers!

If you're attending the Vertical Pro this week, in Germany, swing by Vertical-Life's booth, Hall A7 #100, and treat yourself to a copy. If you're not attending, don't panic, you can order a copy here: here!

Jorge Diaz-Rullo sends Ciudad de dios (9a) and spend his day #131 on his big project in Margalef, besides training hard.

Pietro Vidi, who has sent seven boulders 8B+ to 8C this autumn, has repeated Shawn Raboutou’s Roadkill (8C) in Valle Bavona. In the 8a ranking game, the 20-year-old Italian is #4.

"It was quite an unexpected one! I would have never thought to be able to do the first kneebar and for two days I couldn’t do the move. On the third day I randomly stuck the move thanks to Dave's [Graham] precious tips, and I fell on the easy part not being able to keep my mind together. I came back the day after, stuck the move first try and didn’t let go on the high exit! For sure, it is one of the most beautiful lines in Bavona, even though it all revolves around the first move."

Camilla Moroni has sent The Traphouse (8B+) in Fontainebleau, after trying it for three sessions. (c) Pietro Vidi

How does this line differ from the 8A+ variation you did last week?
There are two more moves on underclings to reach the start holds of Traphouse raccourci. It’s like a low start. I climbed the boulder with the Brooke’s beta which consists of jamming one finger in a little crack, I chose my middle finger.

What are your winter plans?
Just training. I’m mainly focused on Olympic qualification and I will train all winter for this.

Michaela Kiersch, who over the last ten days has done an 8b+, 8c, 8c+ and 9a, has added to that list with a redpoint of Victimes del futur (9a) in Margalef. (c) Jan Novak

“I tried Futur for the first time the same day I sent zipayorik ez!! (8c). It was one try just to check out the moves — I did them all fairly quickly so I added it to my list! I had 5 climbing days left and wanted to try and manage this one and also try Coma Sant Pere (8c+). Luckily CSP went down quickly because turns out I needed a few extra days on Futur to solidify my beta in the crux which kept changing with conditions. In the end it took 5 days and I sent on my 4th try of my final day in Margalef — pretty magical!”

Melina Costanza has done After Hours (8B) in Huntington Canyon. (c) Zoe Herwitz

“I was feeling strong coming off of Nationals last month [where she won both Lead and Boulder] and I knew I wanted to try something hard outside.

Right now, there’s a decent chunk of time before US Team Trials in March, so I was able to get outside between training days! I saw a video of a friend who put up the FA of After Hours and knew immediately this was the boulder I wanted to try! I’d never been on something of the grade before, but it went down quickly and I’m motivated to try some harder things in the near future.”

Is it correct that your previous hardest boulder was Lethal Design (8A+) which you called 7C+? How much do you normally climb outdoors?
That is correct! I have hardly climbed outdoors at all haha. I’m just getting into it! This is the only 8B I’ve ever tried.

I know a lot of people still give Lethal 8A/+ but I did other 7C’s and 7C+’s that trip that felt way harder.

Simon Lorenzi, who made the FA of Soudain seul (9A) in 2021 after some 25 sessions, needed some 20 sessions to send Alphane (9A) last year. "Soudain Seul was harder to send for me. But as you know climbing is a matter of style."

The sending process of Alphane could probably have been quicker as he also had to tackle injury and skin problems as well as bad conditions. After he did it in two parts in August after just five sessions, he got a shoulder injury that made it impossible to fully extend his arm for a month. Then he injured his left index finger meaning that he only focused on the second half while working on it in November. Then in December, he made one more trip and was close to sending but got skin problems.

"It was a roller coaster because I opened my right index finger at my first attempt of the day. I had this problem 10 days ago and didn't find a solution to try with tape. Finally, I put one piece of tape in a strange way and I sent it on my first try with the tape. I went from being depressed about my skin to sending in like 5 min."

Kelly Birch joins the exclusive 8B+ club by repeating Daniel Woods’ Muscle Car (8B+) in Coal Creek.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
At approximately 17 moves long, it links together multiple other hard sections of the whole boulder, ending on a heartbreaking “redpoint crux” of a punchy V11.

I’d done many of the other climbs on this boulder, BUT Muscle Car continued to elude me. Still, I kept returning to the boulder with friends occasionally, trying to keep a relaxed mindset about it. I recently returned to it after a few months away, feeling stronger after a very productive summer alpine season. Finally, after probably at least 25 attempts where I’d fallen at the final crux, I finally stuck it and took it to the top! Incredibly proud of myself for reaching the V14/8b+ milestone.

What is your climbing background?
I’ve been climbing on and off for about 18 years. I was a youth competitor for many years, but took a 5-year hiatus during my late teens and early 20s. During this time, I became passionate about powerlifting and strength training. A few years ago, I returned to climbing with renewed psyche, and have since been focused predominantly on hard bouldering outside. I sent my first V13/8B in 2022, followed by three others this year. Hope there’s more to come for me!

Grimper reports that Charles Albert has made the FA of L'Ombre du Voyageur (9A) at Saleve. In this Instagram video Charles utilizes 360 rotations, feet first climbing, and toe-hooks and knee bars without the aid of shoes or knee pads. Charles says he thinks it is closer to 9A+ in this style, but imagines it is probably 9A otherwise. (c) Arthur Delicque

In 2018, Charles put up No Kpote only as a 9A but later both 8C+ and 8C have been suggested by climbers using climbing shoes. He has now completed roughly ten boulders 8C and harder out of which most are FAs.

Babsi Zangerl did the third repeat of Beth Rodden’s Meltdown (8c+) in Yosemite (CA) last month. Rodden put it up in 2008 and it is considered to be the first 8c+ trad in the world. Carlo Traversi did the first repeat in 2018 and then Babsi's partner Jacopo Larcher sent it last year.