29 December 2023
Jules Marchaland does third 9a in 8 days
Jules Marchaland, who was #10 and #11 in two World Cups this summer, has done Chocholocco in Carros. Some 18 months ago, the 22-year-old broke his left little toe and he has since been climbing with the toe sticking out of his shoe.
Can you tell us more about the ascent and having done three 9a's in a week?
I did Chocholocco in two sessions, including one in October. The resting hold was so wet and I couldn't put chalk after so I did the last crux with a wet hand ๐ . After a big fight, I could clip the chain ๐. Three 9a's in 8 days (not a real week haha) but yes I'm very happy. I donโt think Iโm necessarily in excellent shape, but I think Iโm very successful. I put a lot of effort into the routes and I manage to chain them together quickly, itโs pretty boring haha.
What is the status of your toe?
My toe, same hahaโฆ no progress but with more time I'm sure one day it will be ok! I tried a Tenaya and the pain was really less powerful.
What are your plans and ambitions for 2024?
I really want to do a final in a World Cup and continue to progress to do hard routes outside. Do some 8c onsights and a 9b redpointโฆhaha.
Can you tell us more about the ascent and having done three 9a's in a week?
I did Chocholocco in two sessions, including one in October. The resting hold was so wet and I couldn't put chalk after so I did the last crux with a wet hand ๐ . After a big fight, I could clip the chain ๐. Three 9a's in 8 days (not a real week haha) but yes I'm very happy. I donโt think Iโm necessarily in excellent shape, but I think Iโm very successful. I put a lot of effort into the routes and I manage to chain them together quickly, itโs pretty boring haha.
What is the status of your toe?
My toe, same hahaโฆ no progress but with more time I'm sure one day it will be ok! I tried a Tenaya and the pain was really less powerful.
What are your plans and ambitions for 2024?
I really want to do a final in a World Cup and continue to progress to do hard routes outside. Do some 8c onsights and a 9b redpointโฆhaha.
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