NEWS

Autumn Lloyd climbs Euro Trash (8A+)
Autumn Lloyd has ticked Euro Trash (8A+) in Little Cottonwood Canyon (UT).

Can you tell us more about the ascent and your climbing background?
I live in western CO and I went to LCC for the first time on June 16th to take advantage of some unseasonably cool temps. Euro Roof (7C+) went down pretty fast so I checked out Euro Trash and managed to work out the beta and get it done in a couple hours, which was honestly really shocking given that Euro Trash was only the third V12 Iโ€™ve ever tried and the first Iโ€™ve done. The movement was great and it was nice to find a hard boulder which suits us shorter climbers. Pity about the glued crimp, but it's still an incredible line.

I am 19 and Iโ€™ve been around climbing my whole life through my parents but have been climbing seriously since I was 13. I grew up in Lander WY until I was 12 and have lived in Grand Junction CO ever since. My dad, David Lloyd, and I spent many years climbing established lines and developing bouldering around WY, CO, and UT, which was an incredible introduction to the sport.

Lukas Mayerhofer does the FA of Anam Cara Low (8C)
Lukas Mayerhofer, has added to his previous three 8C's with the FA of Anam cara low (8C) in Silvretta which adds four [hand] moves into Anam Cara (8B+).

How much difficulty is added with the new low start and how much effort have you put in?
I would say around 7C or 7C+, itโ€˜s not super hard but it adds quite a bit.

I actually did the original start back in 2020 and shortly after I figured out the lower moves but was too weak back then. Since then it was on my mind for some years and I tried it every now and then but I was hopeless. This year I came back with a better mindset and three sessions were enough to finish it!

Lucile Saurel ticks Jackโ€™s Broken Heart (8A+)
Lucile Saurel, who this winter did her first 8A+, has completed Jack's broken heart (8A+) in Magic Wood. โ€I loved this boulder so much, powerful and crimpy movements, all what I love!โ€ (c) Aurele Bremond

The 23-year-old is an active competition climber who was #4 in the Youth World Championship in 2019. This year she has made the podium in one European Cup.

What is your next plan?
For climbing, I wait for the French sรฉlection to see if I can participate at the European Championship at the end of Augustโ€ฆ and maybe go to Fionnay to climb outdoors and in Magicwood maybe!

Shauna Coxsey sends Superman (8B)
Shauna Coxsey reports with an Instagram video that she has sent Superman (8B) at Cressbrook. "A Peak classic I was almost sure I'd never do. A true finger strength test-piece for sure. Proud of this one!"

Paul Houghoughi took the picture and reports that, as part of her warm-up, she sent Bizarre Ride (8A) on her second go and that she did Superman on her fourth go from the start.

Marco Mรผller does Super Finale (9a)
Marco Mรผller, has added to the ten 9a's he's already redpointed by by climbing, Super Finale (9a) in Rawyl. (c) Alois Remund

โ€œI first tried this route around two months ago. Since then, itโ€™s been quite difficult due to the conditions, as it usually rained over the weekends. Nevertheless, I could work on the sections for a couple of days. Last weekend, the weather looked promising, the route was dry, and I was able to fight my way up.โ€

What is coming up next?
I want to check out Thor's Hammer (9a+) in Flatanger and see if itโ€™s possible to complete it within the three weeks I am there. Otherwise, Iโ€™m going to try something easier. There are still many routes I havenโ€™t tried yet.

Solomon Kemball sent Isles of Wonder Sit (8C) in May. "Absolute warfare on this one, 3 [individual] month-long trips and a year and a half of training. 8B for the bottom section is a joke 20+ sessions to get through that. I think the sit section has to be around 8C and the lowest it could be top end 8B+."

Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen flashes Afterlife (8B)
Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen has flashed Afterlife (8B) in Felbertal. Here is his Instagram video.

Can you tell us more about the flash?
I have been chasing this for some time now, and I always said that flashing an 8B has been a 'life goal'. So that one is off the list.

When going to Felbertal I had already planned to have a serious flash attempt in Afterlife. And this time a real serious attempt. Normally, I don't like to put to much effort into my flashes, resulting in half-serious attempts. Not totally warm, not the best visualization, half-baked beta (especially for the foot), etc. But this time, I did everything right. I took my time (and some more), warmed up really well, visualized the moves. And I knew that this was the right problem for me; it should suit me really well. Also, conditions were good with a strong wind.

I watched some videos and took my time to check the holds But when I was ready to go for it, I started to feel nervous. It was weird to experience this 'comp-like' pressure. Normally, there is always a next go on projects. Only not this time. Only one try! A deep breath. And exeโ€ฆ

Janja Garnbret wins her 28th Lead WC
Janja Garnbret won over Ai Mori on countback from the qualification as they both topped the final route and reached 48+ in the semi. Over the 24 last World Cups and World Championships that Janja has competed in she has never placed lower than second in any Boulder or Lead event and she has won all Combined events. Complete results.

โ€œEvery single win means a lot to me, because Iโ€™m always with my feet on the ground, I donโ€™t take things for granted, Iโ€™m always focused and determined to win, the feeling is incredible every single time. This was my last World Cup before the Olympics. I will go home and take some time to rest, and then train until Paris 2024!โ€

Jakob Schubert wins Lead in Innsbruck
Jakob Schubert, who started last as he won the semifinal, pleased his home crowd in Innsbruck by climbing three holds higher than Alex Megos in the final. The 33-year-old got his fourth World Championship gold last year and he has also previously won 20 Lead World Cups. Complete results.

โ€œClimbing here at home is always different, itโ€™s always special, and this route today was exceptionally special because it was such a crazy fight from halfway up. Every move I felt like I was going to fall. I might have not been the best climber on the route tonight, but I was the best fighter, and thatโ€™s what brought me to victory. And it was also only possible because of the crowd.

Iโ€™m always really focused and donโ€™t hear too much while I climb, I would say. I wouldnโ€™t recognise which song was playing, but it was crazy loud when I made that move and I immediately knew that that was probably the victory. From there I felt like I could almost enjoy itโ€ฆ I mean, not really, because I was way too pumped.โ€

Sam Weir does F the System (8C+)
Sam Weir has completed Fuck the system (8C+) in Fionnay. โ€Amazing. Fell on the 5a top out before the lip 6 weeks ago and waited patiently for it to be dry again. No knee bar. Style matters on this one for the grade to be correct. 8B/+ into 8B+. Best moves I have done on a boulder.

Can you tell us more about your ascent and the process that went into it?
I started trying FTS shortly after finishing Foundations Edge (8C) last may. I tried it once a week for the whole summer culminating in sticking the crux and then falling in the next 7C section. Fast foreword to 2024 I came back in way better shape and after a few sessions I managed to send the 8C+ part twice on the same day mid may and fell on 5a jugs so pumped and cold. I was sure it would go. Then 6 weeks of rain came in and the boulder has not been dry once. Yesterday I got my chance and I made it happen. Barely ๐Ÿ˜… almost fell in every move but just kept going. Iโ€™ll miss this one.

I think itโ€™s important to note the style in which this boulder is done. No knee bar is 8B/+ to 8B+ whereas with itโ€™s 7B+ to 8B+ and you donโ€™t climb the same moves. Seeing that FTS is a contrivance on its own (you could just after the first move hand foot match and re climb foundations) it should be done in this way for the grade :)