29 June 2024

Sam Weir does F the System (8C+)

Sam Weir has completed Fuck the system (8C+) in Fionnay. โ€Amazing. Fell on the 5a top out before the lip 6 weeks ago and waited patiently for it to be dry again. No knee bar. Style matters on this one for the grade to be correct. 8B/+ into 8B+. Best moves I have done on a boulder.

Can you tell us more about your ascent and the process that went into it?
I started trying FTS shortly after finishing Foundations Edge (8C) last may. I tried it once a week for the whole summer culminating in sticking the crux and then falling in the next 7C section. Fast foreword to 2024 I came back in way better shape and after a few sessions I managed to send the 8C+ part twice on the same day mid may and fell on 5a jugs so pumped and cold. I was sure it would go. Then 6 weeks of rain came in and the boulder has not been dry once. Yesterday I got my chance and I made it happen. Barely ๐Ÿ˜… almost fell in every move but just kept going. Iโ€™ll miss this one.

I think itโ€™s important to note the style in which this boulder is done. No knee bar is 8B/+ to 8B+ whereas with itโ€™s 7B+ to 8B+ and you donโ€™t climb the same moves. Seeing that FTS is a contrivance on its own (you could just after the first move hand foot match and re climb foundations) it should be done in this way for the grade :)
18 comments
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโ€ฆ
Related
Pietro Vidi sends Foundations Edge (8C) and three 8B+
Pietro Vidi, who was #6 in a Boulder Euro Cup in May and #3 in the Italian Championship, has during a five day trip to Fionnay done Foundations Edge (8C), videoโ€ฆ
Foundations Edge 8C by Simone Tentori
Simone Tentori has done Dave Graham's Foundations Edge (8C) in Fionnay. "I'm just so happy to have climbed one of my lifetime dream boulders. It's my second 8C โ€ฆ
Thomas Salakenos ticks his first 8C!
Thomas Salakenos has done Foundations Edge (8C) in Fionnay. This was the first 8C for the 29-year-old who the last two weeks has been in Magic Wood where he didโ€ฆ