3 July 2024
Lucile Saurel ticks Jackโs Broken Heart (8A+)
Lucile Saurel, who this winter did her first 8A+, has completed Jack's broken heart (8A+) in Magic Wood. โI loved this boulder so much, powerful and crimpy movements, all what I love!โ (c) Aurele Bremond
The 23-year-old is an active competition climber who was #4 in the Youth World Championship in 2019. This year she has made the podium in one European Cup.
What is your next plan?
For climbing, I wait for the French sรฉlection to see if I can participate at the European Championship at the end of Augustโฆ and maybe go to Fionnay to climb outdoors and in Magicwood maybe!
The 23-year-old is an active competition climber who was #4 in the Youth World Championship in 2019. This year she has made the podium in one European Cup.
What is your next plan?
For climbing, I wait for the French sรฉlection to see if I can participate at the European Championship at the end of Augustโฆ and maybe go to Fionnay to climb outdoors and in Magicwood maybe!
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5 October 2022
Jack's broken heart 8A+ by Camilla Moroni
Camilla Moroni, who has climbed five 8A to 8A+ graded problems over the last six weeks, has sent Jack's broken heart (8A+) in Magic Wood. "I'm super happy. Righโฆ
Michaela Kiersch, who sent La Rambla (9a+) in January, reports with an Insta video that she has done Jack's broken heart (8A+) in Magic Wood. Here is the La Ramโฆ
10 October 2023
Janja Garnbret is sending for fun in Magic Wood
Janja Garnbret reports on Instagram that she on her first day, "From the beach straight to Magic Wood", sent Sofa Surfer (8A+), Foxy Lady (8A), Octopussy (8A) aโฆ
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
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