Lucia Dörffel, who got her Olympic ticket two weeks ago in Budapest, has sent Riverbed (8B) in Magic Wood. ”I was in Magic for just two days. It was just a perfect short trip with good vibes and good weather. Really cool boulder. Endurance training worked :)” (c) Elias Arriagada K.

Can you tell us more about getting your ticket in the Olympic qualifier series in Budapest?
It was the toughest comps I’ve ever climbed because there was so much mental pressure. I think for all athletes who competed there. After the first one [Shanghai], I was kind of in a good position for a ticket so I’m really happy I could manage my mind in the second one and could show my best climbing.

Ardch (Ard) Intrachupongse moved from Thailand to the USA in 2016 when he was 8. Since 2022, he has participated in a few World Cups and in Innsbruck, last month, he placed seventh. Here is the IFSC - Athlete of the Week video He mainly trains by himself and his focus is dynamic boulders.

Can you tell us how you train?
I mostly just climb, but I make sure I am climbing at a high intensity and very intense [sessions]. Occasionally I would hangboard and do some weight training for injury prevention. I rarely train on comp boulders because no gym in Seattle sets hard enough comp style boulders that I can benefit from. I try to do 2 days on and 2 days off (varies depending on injury and recovery). I don't often do outdoors because its extremely rainy here where I live but I would say twice a month when it's nice out.

How did you prepare for Innsbruck?
I spent the last few months tuning my physical and mental strength. I did a lot of learning how to turn on my “try hard” and I also did a lot of “perfect execution training” making sure if I could physically do it, I needed to do it in the least amount of attempts while overcoming the pressure.

I ran 2 full comp Simulations (qualifiers and then finals at night) in the last month preparing for Innsbruck. I spend a lot of time on “made up comp style boulders” but I have spent very little amount of time training on more difficult competitions boulders Since I simply, just do not have access to those kinds of boulders near where I live.

I just happen to be lucky that comp style boulders come very naturally to me, I spent a lot of time dyno-ing when I was younger, but I got all my competition boulders training from, “Oh what if I do this move”. Weekly I probably train 4-5 days a week about three hours each session so 10-15 hours per week in the gym.

I think the intention of how you train and why you are training in that area is very important. When I want to climb hard outdoors it's going to look very different, there will be some similarities in the strength/ power training so I have to adjust the intensity accordingly

Have you trained with other teams and how was your Thailand team set up in Innsbruck?
Nope, never. I have never travelled to train with other national teams before (restricted by funding) but I should start taking that option more seriously. I travelled to Innsbruck with a friend. We grew up on the same climbing team and he is now going to college in Colorado and coaching a local youth team over. He asked if he could come to Innsbruck with me to gain experience. I said sure. The funny part is how he was more nervous than I was and I ended up doing with the usual solo routine I have, but now it's just alongside a friend. The Thai federation signs me up for events but no support so far.

What about sponsors and financing?
I have no active sponsors, just free products but no contracts (I am totally open to new sponsorship I just don't know how to approach the brands). Last year I was competing in the youth circuit, and now that I've aged out, I'm coaching the kids who are still competing in it, about 20 hours a week and on top of that I do private lessons here and there.

On Ard's Instagram he has a gofund.me link to help support his international competitions.

Ainhize Belar Barrutia, who has already completed 16 routes 8c to 9a, has sent Parasitorik ez (8c) in Araotz/Oñate. Pictured is the 18-year-old sending Honky Tonky (8c).

”It was the first time that I went to Korea [the sector] this year and I wanted to try something to get used to the climbing style again. It is a route that very few people try, even though it’s one of the best routes on the wall, without many tricks and quite a lot of resistance. Finally, I was able to do it on the third try.”

Autumn Lloyd has ticked Euro Trash (8A+) in Little Cottonwood Canyon (UT).

Can you tell us more about the ascent and your climbing background?
I live in western CO and I went to LCC for the first time on June 16th to take advantage of some unseasonably cool temps. Euro Roof (7C+) went down pretty fast so I checked out Euro Trash and managed to work out the beta and get it done in a couple hours, which was honestly really shocking given that Euro Trash was only the third V12 I’ve ever tried and the first I’ve done. The movement was great and it was nice to find a hard boulder which suits us shorter climbers. Pity about the glued crimp, but it's still an incredible line.

I am 19 and I’ve been around climbing my whole life through my parents but have been climbing seriously since I was 13. I grew up in Lander WY until I was 12 and have lived in Grand Junction CO ever since. My dad, David Lloyd, and I spent many years climbing established lines and developing bouldering around WY, CO, and UT, which was an incredible introduction to the sport.

Lukas Mayerhofer, has added to his previous three 8C's with the FA of Anam cara low (8C) in Silvretta which adds four [hand] moves into Anam Cara (8B+).

How much difficulty is added with the new low start and how much effort have you put in?
I would say around 7C or 7C+, it‘s not super hard but it adds quite a bit.

I actually did the original start back in 2020 and shortly after I figured out the lower moves but was too weak back then. Since then it was on my mind for some years and I tried it every now and then but I was hopeless. This year I came back with a better mindset and three sessions were enough to finish it!

Lucile Saurel, who this winter did her first 8A+, has completed Jack's broken heart (8A+) in Magic Wood. ”I loved this boulder so much, powerful and crimpy movements, all what I love!” (c) Aurele Bremond

The 23-year-old is an active competition climber who was #4 in the Youth World Championship in 2019. This year she has made the podium in one European Cup.

What is your next plan?
For climbing, I wait for the French sélection to see if I can participate at the European Championship at the end of August… and maybe go to Fionnay to climb outdoors and in Magicwood maybe!

Shauna Coxsey reports with an Instagram video that she has sent SUPERMAN (8B) at Cressbrook. "A Peak classic I was almost sure I'd never do. A true finger strength test-piece for sure. Proud of this one!"

Paul Houghoughi took the picture and reports that, as part of her warm-up, she sent Bizarre Ride (8A) on her second go and that she did Superman on her fourth go from the start.

Marco Müller, has added to the ten 9a's he's already redpointed by by climbing, Super Finale (9a) in Rawyl. (c) Alois Remund

“I first tried this route around two months ago. Since then, it’s been quite difficult due to the conditions, as it usually rained over the weekends. Nevertheless, I could work on the sections for a couple of days. Last weekend, the weather looked promising, the route was dry, and I was able to fight my way up.”

What is coming up next?
I want to check out Thor's Hammer (9a+) in Flatanger and see if it’s possible to complete it within the three weeks I am there. Otherwise, I’m going to try something easier. There are still many routes I haven’t tried yet.

Solomon Kemball sent Isles of Wonder Sit (8C) in May. "Absolute warfare on this one, 3 [individual] month-long trips and a year and a half of training. 8B for the bottom section is a joke 20+ sessions to get through that. I think the sit section has to be around 8C and the lowest it could be top end 8B+."

Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen has flashed Afterlife (8B) in Felbertal. Here is his Instagram video.

Can you tell us more about the flash?
I have been chasing this for some time now, and I always said that flashing an 8B has been a 'life goal'. So that one is off the list.

When going to Felbertal I had already planned to have a serious flash attempt in Afterlife. And this time a real serious attempt. Normally, I don't like to put to much effort into my flashes, resulting in half-serious attempts. Not totally warm, not the best visualization, half-baked beta (especially for the foot), etc. But this time, I did everything right. I took my time (and some more), warmed up really well, visualized the moves. And I knew that this was the right problem for me; it should suit me really well. Also, conditions were good with a strong wind.

I watched some videos and took my time to check the holds But when I was ready to go for it, I started to feel nervous. It was weird to experience this 'comp-like' pressure. Normally, there is always a next go on projects. Only not this time. Only one try! A deep breath. And exe…