Self-funded and climbing for Thailand Ard placed 7th in Innsbruck

Ardch (Ard) Intrachupongse moved from Thailand to the USA in 2016 when he was 8. Since 2022, he has participated in a few World Cups and in Innsbruck, last month, he placed seventh. Here is the IFSC - Athlete of the Week video He mainly trains by himself and his focus is dynamic boulders.

Can you tell us how you train?
I mostly just climb, but I make sure I am climbing at a high intensity and very intense [sessions]. Occasionally I would hangboard and do some weight training for injury prevention. I rarely train on comp boulders because no gym in Seattle sets hard enough comp style boulders that I can benefit from. I try to do 2 days on and 2 days off (varies depending on injury and recovery). I don't often do outdoors because its extremely rainy here where I live but I would say twice a month when it's nice out.

How did you prepare for Innsbruck?
I spent the last few months tuning my physical and mental strength. I did a lot of learning how to turn on my “try hard” and I also did a lot of “perfect execution training” making sure if I could physically do it, I needed to do it in the least amount of attempts while overcoming the pressure.

I ran 2 full comp Simulations (qualifiers and then finals at night) in the last month preparing for Innsbruck. I spend a lot of time on “made up comp style boulders” but I have spent very little amount of time training on more difficult competitions boulders Since I simply, just do not have access to those kinds of boulders near where I live.

I just happen to be lucky that comp style boulders come very naturally to me, I spent a lot of time dyno-ing when I was younger, but I got all my competition boulders training from, “Oh what if I do this move”. Weekly I probably train 4-5 days a week about three hours each session so 10-15 hours per week in the gym.

I think the intention of how you train and why you are training in that area is very important. When I want to climb hard outdoors it's going to look very different, there will be some similarities in the strength/ power training so I have to adjust the intensity accordingly

Have you trained with other teams and how was your Thailand team set up in Innsbruck?
Nope, never. I have never travelled to train with other national teams before (restricted by funding) but I should start taking that option more seriously. I travelled to Innsbruck with a friend. We grew up on the same climbing team and he is now going to college in Colorado and coaching a local youth team over. He asked if he could come to Innsbruck with me to gain experience. I said sure. The funny part is how he was more nervous than I was and I ended up doing with the usual solo routine I have, but now it's just alongside a friend. The Thai federation signs me up for events but no support so far.

What about sponsors and financing?
I have no active sponsors, just free products but no contracts (I am totally open to new sponsorship I just don't know how to approach the brands). Last year I was competing in the youth circuit, and now that I've aged out, I'm coaching the kids who are still competing in it, about 20 hours a week and on top of that I do private lessons here and there.

On Ard's Instagram he has a gofund.me link to help support his international competitions.