Jonathan Siegrist has done The Ritual (9a) at The Temple. In total, the 38-year-old has now sent 79 routes 9a to 9b. ”Bad ass route. Long RH move at the end of the traverse was my definitive crux. Some left over fitness from Swiss helped me get through the second half. Loved climbing on this thing, fingers feel ready now for the neighbor!”

Can you tell us more about the ascent and your latest trip to Europe?
There’s a really unique area in Ten Sleep canyon with steep clean rock called ‘The Temple’. Matt Wendling bolted some futuristic lines back in the mid 2000’s and in the last several years BJ Tilden opened 2 of these projects at 9a. Both are amazing! ‘The Ritual’ is a bit easier so I started on this one with the hope that it would help train my fingers for ‘Pneuma’ (its more bouldery neighbor).

Earlier in July I was in Chamonix for the Arc’teryx Alpine Academy and decided to extend my trip for a week to check out some of the climbing around Martigny, Swiss. I was so psyched on some of the new stuff there! For sure it was clear that I need to come back next year for more.

Mei Kotake, who won the Lead World Cup in Briancon two weeks ago, has completed New base line (8B+) in Magic Wood. (c) Vladek Zumr

Can you tell us more about the ascents?
It took me three days to send New Base Line. I made all the moves during the two first days and got the hang of them. Then, I started connecting and sent it on the third day. This is my first 8B+ but I sent caricature (8B) in Hourai this March. It was graded 8B by Dai Koyamada at first, but I felt it was 8B+. Only some climbers could send it. After sending it and some 8A+' in Japan, I feel that I was able to understand how to approach high-grade problems. Therefore, I could send New Base Line. I used to focus my training on competitions. However, I really have to be strong and get better at climbing technic to send hard projects outdoors. Mixing with my knowledge and experience of competitions, my results is getting better.

What is your next project?
I’m working on Supercrackinette (9a+). This is my biggest gold! I was able to connect both the first and the second half earlier this spring. I’ll go back there next spring.

Eva Hammelmüller has done M'enfin (8c) in La Saume. During the last week, the 24-year-old has now done five routes 8b+ and beyond. (c) Felix Mast

”The latest 8c I climbed definitely felt not easy for the grade. The holds on this climb are tiny, and the moves require unique body positions. As it was our last day in La Saume (and the third climbing day in a row😅) I knew I had to make every attempt count, and I am happy to have climbed this cool route within a few goes!”

Michaela Kiersch is about setting a new standard in Rocklands by adding Green Mamba (8A+) and The Master Key (8B) to her list. In total, she has now done 16 boulders 7C+ and harder during her first 18 days. (c) Kevin McNally

Can you tell us more about the ascents?
I worked Master key last week and sorted out my beta fairly quickly. After a couple of tries from the bottom I ripped two very deep, bloody splits in my tips. It’s been a week and they are healed and I was able to do it in 2 tries today. I then went over to Green Mamba and after sorting my beta I sent 2nd try from the start, maybe 20 minutes. Maybe 6 tries total when counting working moves.

Dimitri Vogt has repeated Alexander Rohr’s Inferno (9a) in Gimmelwald (extrem) and a few days later he did the eight pitches L'Histoire sans Fin (8b+) in Bas-Valais.

Can you tell us more about those two ascents?
The route Inferno (9a) combines the crux of Jungfraumarathon with the upper crux of Gimmelexpress, which makes it a nice endurance test piece. I had a finger injury a few weeks ago and the route was ideal for getting back into shape, as it is quite steep and therefore has relatively large holds. Last weekend, despite the heat, it worked out and I was able to clip the chain with pumped forearms.

From the first time I saw a topo and pictures of this multi-pitch, I knew immediately that I wanted to try this route. The route climbs the majestic corner pillar of the Petit Clocher du Portalet, which is made of incredibly beautiful orange granite with cracks, corners and slabs. L'histoire sans fin is probably one of the best granite routes in the world at this level of difficulty. When Samuel, a good colleague from Valais, asked me if I would like to attempt the route with him, I was of course immediately on board. After a tiring approach with a lot of luggage, we set off directly onto the route and began to check out the difficult pitches. The route starts with a perfect 40m 7c+ crack, which is quite pumpy and secured with cams. This is followed by several lengths between 7c-8b+ which are definitely tough. It quickly becomes clear that a lot of the climbing on these lengths takes place on the feet. The pitches are relatively flat, but the footholds are very tiny, and the handholds are usually bad. In addition, it seems impossible to memorize all the passages, as there seems to be an infinite number of possible foothold positions. Nevertheless, I try to memorize as many details as possible when bouldering out.

After two days on the route, we take a two-day break. I first need time to process what I've experienced. I was definitely impressed by the difficulty of the route. It seems as if there is no way to cheat unsafe sections with somewhat more powerful solutions. The route demands complete trust in your feet and really good climbing. After this break, we climb again with the aim of just seeing how it goes. I reckon my chances of success are slim. Several places still felt very unsafe when I was bouldering out and I’m far from remembering all all the foot- and handhold sequences of the difficult lengths. Nevertheless, I am motivated to give it a go. I manage the first difficult pitch, the 40m crack, at the first attempt, placing all the cams as I climb. I feel fresh and light. Then something happens that I've only ever experienced on multi-pitch routes. I get into a flow and with every pitch I complete, my movements improve and I climb with more confidence and focus. Without hesitation, I climb passages that still felt very difficult and unsafe when I was checking them out. With this focus and confidence, I climb one pitch after another on the first attempt. At the top of the last difficult pitch, I realize what I have just achieved. I have just made a fall-free ascent from l'histoire sans fin.

Mattea Pötzi, who got the bronze in the last World Cup, has completed Et on tuera tous les Affreux (Le Cadre original) (8c+) in Céüse. ”5 days and 14 attempts later I could clip the chains of this amazing climb! First 8c+ (did no 'real' 8c before ;) ) and it went down pretty quickly after I figured out all the moves. Gradewise: first crux might be easier for us small folk (really high foot) but it evens out in the second crux, where I had to step really, really high again to make it work. Anyway, I'll just go with 8c+, as this seems to be the consensus after broken hold :)” (c) Miro Enzenberger

Sara Šimekova, #8 in the Euro Boulder/Lead Youth Championship last year, has done Rustam Direct (8B) in Holstejn. “Climbed on second session. For smaller people the end is also quite uncomfortable. The hardest part for me was to connect it all together.” (c) Hanka Šikulová

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Honestly, I didn't expect this one 😅 After some disappointing European competitions, I went bouldering outside just to clear my head, try some moves, and for a moment, stop thinking about training, pushing, expectations...

On the first session, I did all the moves, but I knew that linking them together will be a bit harder. During my second session, it somehow all fell into place, my mind and body worked together, and I just knew exactly what to do and what my body wants.

Considering the fact that my skin started to hurt and we had already spent some time trying the boulder, I knew that I didn't have much more attempts. I also knew that after that session, regardless of whether I sent it or not, I'd head home and might not get another chance to try it until autumn. Yet I was absolutely okay with that, I was enjoying the process, feeling happy about the progress I made, and that I had a chance to try some cool moves.

Biggest thanks belong to my coach Tomáš Binter st. without whom I wouldn't have the physical foundation to do it in the first place. He also helped me a lot with tuning the beta and tactics. I also can't forget to mention he drove me there and spent his free time with two teenage girls. Big thanks to @hani_sikulova for mental support, great company, and photos. Without you, we wouldn't have had bouldermats and probably wouldn't have been able to try the boulder. Thanks also to my sponsors who support me on my journey and help me climb harder and recover better by providing me not just training material but also clothes, services, snacks and much more. Thanks also to @climbingjane who gave me all the information like where to park, how to find the boulder, etc. 🙏 Last but not least, thanks to my family and everyone who cheers for me ❤)

What has been your focus the last year and how much have you been climbing outdoors?
During the last year, we didn't focus much on rock climbing. My priority is competition, so outdoor climbing is just for fun. Last autumn, I spent some days lead climbing in Osp and Spain after the competition season ended. However, aside from that, I haven't been spending time on rocks because I decided to focus more on training and indoor climbing to be better prepared.

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Michaela Kiersch continues her sending train in Rocklands by doing The Arch (8B).

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I tried The Arch after a long day of other projects and worked out my beta in the dark but was way too tired to send. I did it second try in my 2nd sesh. At the end of another long day of other projects 😉

How do you like bouldering in Rocklands?
I think going to any new area feels exciting and overwhelming because of all the possible climbs to try. So far (aside from the rain) it’s been incredible. Pretty much my bouldering is limited to Switzerland and Rocklands 😂😂😂.

How do you choose which boulders to try?
I created a to-do list based on classics in the area as well as climbs in the grade range I was interested in. And then I started going down the list and trying all the climbs which were close to each other. I’m in great shape so luckily most of my sends have happened in 1 session.

Derek Thatcher started to climb in Castle Hill some 25 years ago and now they have a protocoll, how to wash boulders to preserve friction on their limestone, video. This method using a spray bottle and a soft bristle brush should not be used on sandstone!

"Washing hand and foot holds has been commonplace in Castle Hill Basin for over 20 years and in recent years with increasing traffic more and more visitors have taken up the process to maximise friction and preserve the rock. Now more climbers are seen carrying garden spray bottles than not and it is so uncommon to visit an ‘unwashed’ climb that it seems offensive when you do. The norm is to wash all the built up rubber and chalk off every boulder when you finish and leave it in perfect condition for the next people (once dried of course). Once you start seeing the benefits of washing any drawbacks seem insignificant, you may even find yourself washing large sport climbs in the hope of improving friction."

Is it true that a polished boulder can have improved friction after a year without climbing?
A year is optimistic! Certainly within 5 to 10 years depending on the aspect, from observation of climbs that have been closed off for various reasons. Lots of small areas of boulders have been closed here and fenced off for native replanting. This is all observational, not science, but I certainly have re-looked at things and have a good memory for texture. I assume it is done by the same weathering processes that give the friction in the first place. I am not a geologist but my understanding is that the micro texture of limestone is formed by water running over the rock and both removing and depositing materials.

One of the largest positives I see here from our campaigning is that the general climber starts to pay way more attention to their impact. Watching when holds start to rubber up and realising they can do something about it.