NEWS
31 July 2024
Marco Mรผller completes Thor's Hammer (9a)
Marco Mรผller has repeated Adam Ondra's Thor's Hammer (9a) in Flatanger. The original FA grade in 2012 was 9a+ but later Adam and others suggested a downgrade due to better beta and kneepads. (c) Leo Bรธe
Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I had a couple of tries on Thor's Hammer two years ago, but I couldnโt continue because I injured my knee at that time. So, I was eager to try again this year. The first sessions on the route went great; I quickly found some beta and started making links and attempts from the ground. After getting stuck at the same move at the first crux for a couple of days, I needed to tweak my beta. I discovered a new, easier sequence, and in the same session, I climbed through the entire first part of the route and fell in 'Nordic Plumber' (Thor's Hammer continues into Nordic Plumber after about 25m, making the total route around 60m). I was super pumped and fell on what is probably the easiest part of Plumber. I needed a few more tries to climb through the first part again, and this time, I fought my way up without falling on Plumber. I had a huge fight at the final rail, and even clipping the chains were at my limit.
Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I had a couple of tries on Thor's Hammer two years ago, but I couldnโt continue because I injured my knee at that time. So, I was eager to try again this year. The first sessions on the route went great; I quickly found some beta and started making links and attempts from the ground. After getting stuck at the same move at the first crux for a couple of days, I needed to tweak my beta. I discovered a new, easier sequence, and in the same session, I climbed through the entire first part of the route and fell in 'Nordic Plumber' (Thor's Hammer continues into Nordic Plumber after about 25m, making the total route around 60m). I was super pumped and fell on what is probably the easiest part of Plumber. I needed a few more tries to climb through the first part again, and this time, I fought my way up without falling on Plumber. I had a huge fight at the final rail, and even clipping the chains were at my limit.
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9
131 July 2024
Dylan Chuat FA's Big Nose (8C)
Dylan Chuat, who earlier this spring did his first 9a+, has made the FA of Big nose (8C) and repeated Compass North (8B+) in Fionnay. (c) Sebastien Maflin
Can you tell us more about the first ascent?
After a major cleaning session with Clรฉment Lechaptois, extensive method research (not easy to find), and a few attempts, here I am at the top of this King Line in Fionnay, which I named Big Nose in reference to the magnificent hold in the middle of the boulder. Without a doubt, itโs one of the most beautiful lines in Fionnay. Itโs impressive, the moves are incredible, the holds are crazy, and the effort to link it all together is really cool!
I took a while to decide on the grade because itโs much harder than all the 8B+ routes in the region and tougher than the only 8C Iโve actually tried and completed (over 4 years ago ๐ ). However, I wasnโt in my best shape, and once I found the methods, I completed the boulder fairly quickly. Additionally, the last crux is very condition-dependent, and Iโve never had truly cold conditions, which makes a big difference in the difficulty of the boulder. So, a heads-up to future repeaters!
Can you tell us more about the first ascent?
After a major cleaning session with Clรฉment Lechaptois, extensive method research (not easy to find), and a few attempts, here I am at the top of this King Line in Fionnay, which I named Big Nose in reference to the magnificent hold in the middle of the boulder. Without a doubt, itโs one of the most beautiful lines in Fionnay. Itโs impressive, the moves are incredible, the holds are crazy, and the effort to link it all together is really cool!
I took a while to decide on the grade because itโs much harder than all the 8B+ routes in the region and tougher than the only 8C Iโve actually tried and completed (over 4 years ago ๐ ). However, I wasnโt in my best shape, and once I found the methods, I completed the boulder fairly quickly. Additionally, the last crux is very condition-dependent, and Iโve never had truly cold conditions, which makes a big difference in the difficulty of the boulder. So, a heads-up to future repeaters!
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7
131 July 2024
Finja Perschmann, 11, does Scary Christmas (8A)
Finja Perschmann has, during her first session, sent Scary Christmas (8A) at Gotthardpass. The 11-year-old got inspired from Greta di Biase who, last year, sent it at age 10.
What was most challenging with the ascent?
The hardest part was to trust my feet and place them so they wouldnโt slip. The second challenge was to keep my nerves together, as I absolutely wanted to send it in this (first) session.
What is her climbing background and how much does she climb during the winter and summer seasons?
[Axel and Katinka] We both climb for a long time and have always had our focus on rock climbing over competitions. Since we moved to Freiburg in 2014 and started working life time on rock has sadly reduced significantly, but we still find some time for regular climbing trips. While home, we are both active coaches for the local youth climbing teams in Freiburg. Finja (and Merle) consequently joined us on many climbing trips since their birth, grew into the climbing teams early and successively started to enjoy the sport more and more.
For about two years Finja has been pretty hooked on improving her skills. She really enjoys the time with her friends in the climbing team and has fun competing. Currently, she trains regularly twice a week in our training team, plus some extra sessions every few weeks with the Stรผtzpunkt Sรผd-West. Additionally, when she gets the chance she joins us parents or friends during climbing sessions.
What was most challenging with the ascent?
The hardest part was to trust my feet and place them so they wouldnโt slip. The second challenge was to keep my nerves together, as I absolutely wanted to send it in this (first) session.
What is her climbing background and how much does she climb during the winter and summer seasons?
[Axel and Katinka] We both climb for a long time and have always had our focus on rock climbing over competitions. Since we moved to Freiburg in 2014 and started working life time on rock has sadly reduced significantly, but we still find some time for regular climbing trips. While home, we are both active coaches for the local youth climbing teams in Freiburg. Finja (and Merle) consequently joined us on many climbing trips since their birth, grew into the climbing teams early and successively started to enjoy the sport more and more.
For about two years Finja has been pretty hooked on improving her skills. She really enjoys the time with her friends in the climbing team and has fun competing. Currently, she trains regularly twice a week in our training team, plus some extra sessions every few weeks with the Stรผtzpunkt Sรผd-West. Additionally, when she gets the chance she joins us parents or friends during climbing sessions.
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10
030 July 2024
Jonathan Siegrist does The Ritual (9a)
Jonathan Siegrist has done The Ritual (9a) at The Temple. In total, the 38-year-old has now sent 79 routes 9a to 9b. โBad ass route. Long RH move at the end of the traverse was my definitive crux. Some left over fitness from Swiss helped me get through the second half. Loved climbing on this thing, fingers feel ready now for the neighbor!โ
Can you tell us more about the ascent and your latest trip to Europe?
Thereโs a really unique area in Ten Sleep canyon with steep clean rock called โThe Templeโ. Matt Wendling bolted some futuristic lines back in the mid 2000โs and in the last several years BJ Tilden opened 2 of these projects at 9a. Both are amazing! โThe Ritualโ is a bit easier so I started on this one with the hope that it would help train my fingers for โPneumaโ (its more bouldery neighbor).
Earlier in July I was in Chamonix for the Arcโteryx Alpine Academy and decided to extend my trip for a week to check out some of the climbing around Martigny, Swiss. I was so psyched on some of the new stuff there! For sure it was clear that I need to come back next year for more.
Can you tell us more about the ascent and your latest trip to Europe?
Thereโs a really unique area in Ten Sleep canyon with steep clean rock called โThe Templeโ. Matt Wendling bolted some futuristic lines back in the mid 2000โs and in the last several years BJ Tilden opened 2 of these projects at 9a. Both are amazing! โThe Ritualโ is a bit easier so I started on this one with the hope that it would help train my fingers for โPneumaโ (its more bouldery neighbor).
Earlier in July I was in Chamonix for the Arcโteryx Alpine Academy and decided to extend my trip for a week to check out some of the climbing around Martigny, Swiss. I was so psyched on some of the new stuff there! For sure it was clear that I need to come back next year for more.
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15
030 July 2024
Mei Kotake does New Base Line (8B+)
Mei Kotake, who won the Lead World Cup in Briancon two weeks ago, has completed New base line (8B+) in Magic Wood. (c) Vladek Zumr
Can you tell us more about the ascents?
It took me three days to send New Base Line. I made all the moves during the two first days and got the hang of them. Then, I started connecting and sent it on the third day. This is my first 8B+ but I sent caricature (8B) in Hourai this March. It was graded 8B by Dai Koyamada at first, but I felt it was 8B+. Only some climbers could send it. After sending it and some 8A+' in Japan, I feel that I was able to understand how to approach high-grade problems. Therefore, I could send New Base Line. I used to focus my training on competitions. However, I really have to be strong and get better at climbing technic to send hard projects outdoors. Mixing with my knowledge and experience of competitions, my results is getting better.
What is your next project?
Iโm working on Supercrackinette (9a+). This is my biggest gold! I was able to connect both the first and the second half earlier this spring. Iโll go back there next spring.
Can you tell us more about the ascents?
It took me three days to send New Base Line. I made all the moves during the two first days and got the hang of them. Then, I started connecting and sent it on the third day. This is my first 8B+ but I sent caricature (8B) in Hourai this March. It was graded 8B by Dai Koyamada at first, but I felt it was 8B+. Only some climbers could send it. After sending it and some 8A+' in Japan, I feel that I was able to understand how to approach high-grade problems. Therefore, I could send New Base Line. I used to focus my training on competitions. However, I really have to be strong and get better at climbing technic to send hard projects outdoors. Mixing with my knowledge and experience of competitions, my results is getting better.
What is your next project?
Iโm working on Supercrackinette (9a+). This is my biggest gold! I was able to connect both the first and the second half earlier this spring. Iโll go back there next spring.
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32
029 July 2024
Eva Hammelmรผller ticks M'enfin (8c)
Eva Hammelmรผller has done M'enfin (8c) in La Saume. During the last week, the 24-year-old has now done five routes 8b+ and beyond. (c) Felix Mast
โThe latest 8c I climbed definitely felt not easy for the grade. The holds on this climb are tiny, and the moves require unique body positions. As it was our last day in La Saume (and the third climbing day in a row๐ ) I knew I had to make every attempt count, and I am happy to have climbed this cool route within a few goes!โ
โThe latest 8c I climbed definitely felt not easy for the grade. The holds on this climb are tiny, and the moves require unique body positions. As it was our last day in La Saume (and the third climbing day in a row๐ ) I knew I had to make every attempt count, and I am happy to have climbed this cool route within a few goes!โ
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11
028 July 2024
Michaela Kiersch does The Master Key (8B)
Michaela Kiersch is about setting a new standard in Rocklands by adding Green Mamba (8A+) and The Master Key (8B) to her list. In total, she has now done 16 boulders 7C+ and harder during her first 18 days. (c) Kevin McNally
Can you tell us more about the ascents?
I worked Master key last week and sorted out my beta fairly quickly. After a couple of tries from the bottom I ripped two very deep, bloody splits in my tips. Itโs been a week and they are healed and I was able to do it in 2 tries today. I then went over to Green Mamba and after sorting my beta I sent 2nd try from the start, maybe 20 minutes. Maybe 6 tries total when counting working moves.
Can you tell us more about the ascents?
I worked Master key last week and sorted out my beta fairly quickly. After a couple of tries from the bottom I ripped two very deep, bloody splits in my tips. Itโs been a week and they are healed and I was able to do it in 2 tries today. I then went over to Green Mamba and after sorting my beta I sent 2nd try from the start, maybe 20 minutes. Maybe 6 tries total when counting working moves.
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18
028 July 2024
Dimitri Vogt completes Inferno (9a) and a MP 8b+
Dimitri Vogt has repeated Alexander Rohrโs Inferno (9a) in Gimmelwald (extrem) and a few days later he did the eight pitches L'Histoire sans Fin (8b+) in Bas-Valais.
Can you tell us more about those two ascents?
The route Inferno (9a) combines the crux of Jungfraumarathon with the upper crux of Gimmelexpress, which makes it a nice endurance test piece. I had a finger injury a few weeks ago and the route was ideal for getting back into shape, as it is quite steep and therefore has relatively large holds. Last weekend, despite the heat, it worked out and I was able to clip the chain with pumped forearms.
From the first time I saw a topo and pictures of this multi-pitch, I knew immediately that I wanted to try this route. The route climbs the majestic corner pillar of the Petit Clocher du Portalet, which is made of incredibly beautiful orange granite with cracks, corners and slabs. L'histoire sans fin is probably one of the best granite routes in the world at this level of difficulty. When Samuel, a good colleague from Valais, asked me if I would like to attempt the route with him, I was of course immediately on board. After a tiring approach with a lot of luggage, we set off directly onto the route and began to check out the difficult pitches. The route starts with a perfect 40m 7c+ crack, which is quite pumpy and secured with cams. This is followed by several lengths between 7c-8b+ which are definitely tough. It quickly becomes clear that a lot of the climbing on these lengths takes place on the feet. The pitches are relatively flat, but the footholds are very tiny, and the handholds are usually bad. In addition, it seems impossible to memorize all the passages, as there seems to be an infinite number of possible foothold positions. Nevertheless, I try to memorize as many details as possible when bouldering out.
After two days on the route, we take a two-day break. I first need time to process what I've experienced. I was definitely impressed by the difficulty of the route. It seems as if there is no way to cheat unsafe sections with somewhat more powerful solutions. The route demands complete trust in your feet and really good climbing. After this break, we climb again with the aim of just seeing how it goes. I reckon my chances of success are slim. Several places still felt very unsafe when I was bouldering out and Iโm far from remembering all all the foot- and handhold sequences of the difficult lengths. Nevertheless, I am motivated to give it a go. I manage the first difficult pitch, the 40m crack, at the first attempt, placing all the cams as I climb. I feel fresh and light. Then something happens that I've only ever experienced on multi-pitch routes. I get into a flow and with every pitch I complete, my movements improve and I climb with more confidence and focus. Without hesitation, I climb passages that still felt very difficult and unsafe when I was checking them out. With this focus and confidence, I climb one pitch after another on the first attempt. At the top of the last difficult pitch, I realize what I have just achieved. I have just made a fall-free ascent from l'histoire sans fin.
Can you tell us more about those two ascents?
The route Inferno (9a) combines the crux of Jungfraumarathon with the upper crux of Gimmelexpress, which makes it a nice endurance test piece. I had a finger injury a few weeks ago and the route was ideal for getting back into shape, as it is quite steep and therefore has relatively large holds. Last weekend, despite the heat, it worked out and I was able to clip the chain with pumped forearms.
From the first time I saw a topo and pictures of this multi-pitch, I knew immediately that I wanted to try this route. The route climbs the majestic corner pillar of the Petit Clocher du Portalet, which is made of incredibly beautiful orange granite with cracks, corners and slabs. L'histoire sans fin is probably one of the best granite routes in the world at this level of difficulty. When Samuel, a good colleague from Valais, asked me if I would like to attempt the route with him, I was of course immediately on board. After a tiring approach with a lot of luggage, we set off directly onto the route and began to check out the difficult pitches. The route starts with a perfect 40m 7c+ crack, which is quite pumpy and secured with cams. This is followed by several lengths between 7c-8b+ which are definitely tough. It quickly becomes clear that a lot of the climbing on these lengths takes place on the feet. The pitches are relatively flat, but the footholds are very tiny, and the handholds are usually bad. In addition, it seems impossible to memorize all the passages, as there seems to be an infinite number of possible foothold positions. Nevertheless, I try to memorize as many details as possible when bouldering out.
After two days on the route, we take a two-day break. I first need time to process what I've experienced. I was definitely impressed by the difficulty of the route. It seems as if there is no way to cheat unsafe sections with somewhat more powerful solutions. The route demands complete trust in your feet and really good climbing. After this break, we climb again with the aim of just seeing how it goes. I reckon my chances of success are slim. Several places still felt very unsafe when I was bouldering out and Iโm far from remembering all all the foot- and handhold sequences of the difficult lengths. Nevertheless, I am motivated to give it a go. I manage the first difficult pitch, the 40m crack, at the first attempt, placing all the cams as I climb. I feel fresh and light. Then something happens that I've only ever experienced on multi-pitch routes. I get into a flow and with every pitch I complete, my movements improve and I climb with more confidence and focus. Without hesitation, I climb passages that still felt very difficult and unsafe when I was checking them out. With this focus and confidence, I climb one pitch after another on the first attempt. At the top of the last difficult pitch, I realize what I have just achieved. I have just made a fall-free ascent from l'histoire sans fin.
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12
026 July 2024
Mattea Pรถtzi does Le Cadre orginal (8c+)
Mattea Pรถtzi, who got the bronze in the last World Cup, has completed Et on tuera tous les Affreux (Le Cadre original) (8c+) in Cรฉรผse. โ5 days and 14 attempts later I could clip the chains of this amazing climb! First 8c+ (did no 'real' 8c before ;) ) and it went down pretty quickly after I figured out all the moves. Gradewise: first crux might be easier for us small folk (really high foot) but it evens out in the second crux, where I had to step really, really high again to make it work. Anyway, I'll just go with 8c+, as this seems to be the consensus after broken hold :)โ (c) Miro Enzenberger
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18
026 July 2024
Sara ล imekova ticks Rustam Direct (8B)
Sara ล imekova, #8 in the Euro Boulder/Lead Youth Championship last year, has done Rustam Direct (8B) in Holstejn. โClimbed on second session. For smaller people the end is also quite uncomfortable. The hardest part for me was to connect it all together.โ (c) Hanka ล ikulovรก
Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Honestly, I didn't expect this one ๐ After some disappointing European competitions, I went bouldering outside just to clear my head, try some moves, and for a moment, stop thinking about training, pushing, expectations...
On the first session, I did all the moves, but I knew that linking them together will be a bit harder. During my second session, it somehow all fell into place, my mind and body worked together, and I just knew exactly what to do and what my body wants.
Considering the fact that my skin started to hurt and we had already spent some time trying the boulder, I knew that I didn't have much more attempts. I also knew that after that session, regardless of whether I sent it or not, I'd head home and might not get another chance to try it until autumn. Yet I was absolutely okay with that, I was enjoying the process, feeling happy about the progress I made, and that I had a chance to try some cool moves.
Biggest thanks belong to my coach Tomรกลก Binter st. without whom I wouldn't have the physical foundation to do it in the first place. He also helped me a lot with tuning the beta and tactics. I also can't forget to mention he drove me there and spent his free time with two teenage girls. Big thanks to @hani_sikulova for mental support, great company, and photos. Without you, we wouldn't have had bouldermats and probably wouldn't have been able to try the boulder. Thanks also to my sponsors who support me on my journey and help me climb harder and recover better by providing me not just training material but also clothes, services, snacks and much more. Thanks also to @climbingjane who gave me all the information like where to park, how to find the boulder, etc. ๐ Last but not least, thanks to my family and everyone who cheers for me โค)
What has been your focus the last year and how much have you been climbing outdoors?
During the last year, we didn't focus much on rock climbing. My priority is competition, so outdoor climbing is just for fun. Last autumn, I spent some days lead climbing in Osp and Spain after the competition season ended. However, aside from that, I haven't been spending time on rocks because I decided to focus more on training and indoor climbing to be better prepared.
Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Honestly, I didn't expect this one ๐ After some disappointing European competitions, I went bouldering outside just to clear my head, try some moves, and for a moment, stop thinking about training, pushing, expectations...
On the first session, I did all the moves, but I knew that linking them together will be a bit harder. During my second session, it somehow all fell into place, my mind and body worked together, and I just knew exactly what to do and what my body wants.
Considering the fact that my skin started to hurt and we had already spent some time trying the boulder, I knew that I didn't have much more attempts. I also knew that after that session, regardless of whether I sent it or not, I'd head home and might not get another chance to try it until autumn. Yet I was absolutely okay with that, I was enjoying the process, feeling happy about the progress I made, and that I had a chance to try some cool moves.
Biggest thanks belong to my coach Tomรกลก Binter st. without whom I wouldn't have the physical foundation to do it in the first place. He also helped me a lot with tuning the beta and tactics. I also can't forget to mention he drove me there and spent his free time with two teenage girls. Big thanks to @hani_sikulova for mental support, great company, and photos. Without you, we wouldn't have had bouldermats and probably wouldn't have been able to try the boulder. Thanks also to my sponsors who support me on my journey and help me climb harder and recover better by providing me not just training material but also clothes, services, snacks and much more. Thanks also to @climbingjane who gave me all the information like where to park, how to find the boulder, etc. ๐ Last but not least, thanks to my family and everyone who cheers for me โค)
What has been your focus the last year and how much have you been climbing outdoors?
During the last year, we didn't focus much on rock climbing. My priority is competition, so outdoor climbing is just for fun. Last autumn, I spent some days lead climbing in Osp and Spain after the competition season ended. However, aside from that, I haven't been spending time on rocks because I decided to focus more on training and indoor climbing to be better prepared.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
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13Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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81Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
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69Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโฆ
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