Petra Klingler has had a memorable day in Magic Wood, sending Octopussy (8A), Jack's broken heart (8A+) and Unendliche Geschichte 1 (8A+). The 32-year-old has won the World Championship in Boulder in 2016 and Ice Climbing in 2022.

Can you tell us more about that special day?
What an incredible day it was! I arrived to Magic Wood on Saturday evening to try UG1 with some friends. Unfortunately, nothing was going right. I could barely manage the first move. Eventually, I managed to get an okay go, but it drained so much energy from me that I couldn’t continue afterwards. Feeling a bit frustrated, I headed to bed.

Exhausted and tired, I slept remarkably long on Sunday, waking up at 11 a.m., which is quite unusual for me as a morning person! After a hearty breakfast—or rather, a late brunch—we set off again. We started with a little warm-up on a 7a that felt surprisingly tough, and then we decided to give Octopussy a shot. I had already attempted it in two previous sessions, but the long reach had always been a challenge.

I started with a warm-up attempt. The holds felt good, and before I knew it, I was holding the top hold in my hand. It was such a surprise that we didn’t even film it. Catching my breath, I jumped back on, teasingly prompted by my friends, who joked that I would have to do it again since there was no proof of my ascent. And once again, I managed to climb the boulder cleanly.

Next to it was Jack’s Broken Heart, which I had also tried during two sessions. Since I felt good and was waiting for my friends, I thought I’d take the opportunity to repeat the beta and stay warm up. The first move was close, but I didn’t let go. Move by move, I made it to the crux—an extended reach to a sharp hold, a cut lose, and right heel to hand. I slapped the sloper and made a dynamic move to the left. At this point, I knew I couldn’t let go. Fortunately, my friend was filming, as I certainly didn’t expect to send it.

With two of my projects already crossed off the list, I felt happy and satisfied. I wanted to join the others at UG1 to burn off some energy and repeat the moves, hoping to tick off this classic before the season ended.

I jumped on and pushed through. What a day! I can hardly remember the details of the movements—it felt like a movie. I couldn’t believe it. Until that day, I had never sent an 8a+. Prior to that, I had bouldered seven 8as, four of which were in the Rocklands just last month. What an incredible day!
Just to top it off, we once again forgot to keep the camera rolling 😂🫣, so I climbed UG1 a second time for the camera 🙃.

Javi Pec has been a full-time climbing photographer for about ten years and has been sharing his photos on Vertical-Life/8a roughly every other month since 2005.” I remember many years ago. I won a Mammut chalk bag in the 8a contest - Photo of the Month 😂😂😂. Still got it 😂.

The 47-year-old is still climbing 5 or 6 days a week. ”I really love it! My highest grade is 8b. Not much considering I’ve been climbing for over 25 years 😂 Last week I did an 8a. Now I’m so close to send another 8b. Last Sunday I felt at the last draw…😂😂”

Just scroll his Instagram to see more amazing pictures. It should also be mentioned that he was a bit shy to have his portrait inside the Patxi Usobiaga picture and it also took some chatting until we got his grade level :)

What is your climbing background?
I started climbing in the late ‘90s. At first, I climbed occasionally since I was really into skateboarding, but little by little, I got hooked on climbing and haven’t stopped since. In these nearly 25 years, I’ve barely taken a break from it. Photography already interested me, but mainly as a way to capture memories. During my skateboarding years, we were always really motivated by audiovisuals, whether photos or videos. We loved looking at magazines like Thrasher and Transworld. In climbing, it was a natural evolution of those interests. I began taking photos of my friends, who were skilled climbers and eventually started selling my photos to magazines. This led me to connect with brands in the industry.

How and when did you become a full time climbing photographer?
I studied history at university and worked as an archaeologist for almost 10 years. During that time, I climbed and took photos. It was all a slow evolution. At first, I had occasional photography jobs, and little by little, it became something more regular. In 2013, I started as a freelancer. At the beginning, it wasn’t easy, but over time, everything evolved to the point where I could make a living from climbing photography. The rise of climbing gyms and competitions is also something that has helped me live off this work.

What are your most memorable moments?
Just the simple fact of being outdoors, climbing, and photographing top-level climbers brings me great satisfaction. Looking back and seeing how my career as a professional photographer has evolved is also very rewarding. Still, I have special memories, not just because of the photos I was able to capture at that moment, but because of everything surrounding them. For example, it was very special for me to photograph Angela Eiter when she made the first-ever female ascent of a 9b, ‘La Planta de Shiva’ in Villanueva del Rosario. I was immersed in documenting another of those special moments—Patxi Usobiaga’s process of climbing ‘Pachamama’ (9a+), when a brand called me to document Angie’s ascent. That same afternoon, I was on a train heading to the other side of Spain.

How much work do you normally put in during a week?
That’s something I couldn’t calculate. For me, climbing and photography are a passion that takes up all my time. I always want to climb. I always want to be outdoors. And with photography, it’s the same. If I’m not taking photos, I’m studying, looking at photography-related things, and always trying to learn new things to improve. Sometimes I’m out climbing and leave the camera aside, but many other times I do both. I try to make the most of my time because I really enjoy my work and climbing. While you’re climbing, you’re also observing where a good photo could be taken. For me, it’s something indivisible, and it occupies almost 100% of my time. It’s hard for me to be without climbing, and the same thing happens with photography.

Laura Rogora, the European Lead as well as Combined Champion three weeks ago, has repeated Adam Ondra’s Goldrake (9a+) in Cornalba. The same day she also onsighted Jedi (8b). Previously, the 23-year-old has done more than 20 routes 8c+/9a and harder which is almost twice as many as the runner-up, Anak Verhoeven. (c) Giancarlo "Abi" Sironi

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I tried it on Tuesday. On my second go I did it with one rest and on my fourth go I fell on the last hard move. I tried once again but I was a bit tired, so I came back the day after and did it on my first go. I solved all the moves quite fast but it took me some tries to find the best beta. The route and the rock are very nice, with small crimps on a slightly overhanging wall.

What is next?
I am going to Korea the day after tomorrow.

Martina Demmel has had a great week in Arco sending 30 routes out of which six 8b+ or 8c; Dedi fredi (8b+) , 5 Uve (8c), Elephant man (8b+), Warbeast (8c), Ghost Rider (8b+) and Super Maratona (8b+). (c) Basti Halenke

Can you tell us more about the trip and the most memborable ascents?
There are a few memorable sends from the last few days beause I often surprised myself with how much mental energy I had to keep on fighting when my body already wanted to let go. Especially in "5 uve", it was only possible with the support from my belayer & a lot of will-power. These quick sends now feel extra rewarding because I went through a lot of changes recently and I didn't even believe anymore that I can still push myself and be focused enough on the wall.

What is coming up next?
We're still here in Arco till Sunday but now it's raining non-stop, so we have to see what's dry the next few days⛈️... apart from that I've already decided to finish my comp-season earlier this year (in August) to prioritize my long-term health. Now, I'm feeling kinda recharged to start school & winter training again soon.

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Nina Arthaud, who last month did three 8A+' in Rocklands, has had some great days in Magic Wood ticking Pura Vida (8A+), Foxy Lady (8A) and Jack's broken heart (8A+). The 24-year-old stopped competing in 2021 after reaching the Lead World Cup finals twice.

Can you tell us more about the ascents?
I haven’t had much chance to go to Magic Wood yet, so I planned a 5-day trip there with some friends. The week was rather rainy and we had to be strategic to find the right slots to climb.

I tried ‘Jacks Broken Heart’ on the first day of our trip. I have had this boulder in my head for a long time and I really wanted to try it. I fell into the vertical section at the very top on my first session and managed to link it on the second.

I then tried ‘Foxy lady’. This one is so beautiful. For this boulder we had to go to the boulder at 7am because the rain was supposed to come at 9am. In the end, I managed to climb this one with the final part in the rain. Not the best conditions but for sure a good memory !

Finally, I tried ‘Pura Vida’. At first I thought I’d try the 8b version which is ‘One summer in Paradise’, which starts lower, but I really liked the high heel on the first move of the 8a+ so I changed my plans. I quickly checked the moves and I managed to climb it a few tries later. The top-out was also totally wet but I felt lucky to be able to climb it despite the rain.

Thanks to my friends for their support and good mood during this trip, it’s precious.

What is next?
I’m currently trying some boulders in Valais and Fionnay. Then back to university 😅🥲 [Psychology]. Then Ticino this autumn / winter.

How can you explain your recent great progress?
I’ve trained really hard over the past year for outdoor bouldering, using my experience from years of competition climbing. In fact, it’s only been a year since I started bouldering outside. Before that, I mainly focused on routes and had less time to climb outdoors. Recently, I’ve noticed that I’ve gained more experience and efficiency on rock. Plus, I’m extremely motivated, which helps me push myself during every session.

Part of the background for establishing the 8a scorecard in 2000 was to encourage climbers to try to climb onsight instead of just trying to redpoint one route during a trip. The "bonus points" you get are worth three grades more. During the last years, we have seen that the redpoint level has increased at the same time as the onsight level has decreased. In general, there are few climbers who onsight three grades below their redpoint max.

Wojtek Pełka has onsighted nine routes 8a+ or 8b the last 12 months at the same time he has just redpointed one 8b+ and one 8c. In the onsight ranking game he is #3 although he has had a knee surgery this February. The picture is from his onsight attempt of Photo Shot (8b). (c) Mateusz Haładaj

Can you tell us more about your onsight focus?
I decided to commit to quick sending last year rather than just trying hard RP. I wouldn’t say it’s an onsight focus, but rather my approach for climbing abroad. Since I usually have trips shorter than 3 weeks I would like to climb as much as possible and explore new crags. By onsighting I can try more different routes. I find this style less challenging mentally, as you don’t have to deal with the pressure of time in which you should finish a redpoint project. I like the challenge of reading sequence correctly while having enough strength, endurance and confidence to make it through. Probably I didn’t have a proper project at my limit abroad because I’d never come back for a certain route. But maybe in the future, I will focus more on pushing my redpoint limit as well :).

What are your onsight plans this autumn?
Still not in full swing, unfortunately. This autumn, I won’t climb hard due to some mobility limitations of my knee. I need to carefully figure out beta before each attempt 🙂

Ainhize Belar, who two weeks ago did Iñi Ameriketan (9a), has sent celedon (9a) in Egino, La Leze. The 18-year-old is #1 in the Vertical-Life female ranking game. (c) Ekaitz Anda

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Last month I sent Activos tóxicos (8c), a route with the same ending as Celedón and then, I decided to try it from below to see the steps and have another project close to home. The truth is that I felt quite comfortable in it from the beginning and after 6 tries I was able to get this 45 meter route with perfect holds that crosses the entire wall. It was one of those tries where you are focused, enjoying the moves and everything flows

"After a major cleaning session with Clément Lechaptois, extensive method research (not easy to find), and a few attempts, here I am at the top of this King Line in Fionnay, which I named Big Nose in reference to the magnificent hold in the middle of the boulder. Without a doubt, it’s one of the most beautiful lines in Fionnay. It’s impressive, the moves are incredible, the holds are crazy, and the effort to link it all together is really cool!

I took a while to decide on the grade because it’s much harder than all the 8B+ routes in the region and tougher than the only 8C I’ve actually tried and completed (over 4 years ago 😅). However, I wasn’t in my best shape, and once I found the methods, I completed the boulder fairly quickly. Additionally, the last crux is very condition-dependent, and I’ve never had truly cold conditions, which makes a big difference in the difficulty of the boulder. So, a heads-up to future repeaters!"

Delaney Miller, with two 8c+' under her belt, has signed up to Vertical-Life by logging Fat Camp (9a) in Rifle (CO). The 29-year-old has been an active competition climber for ten years until 2018. In 2015, she had her best year being Top-13 four times in the World Cup. (c) Mack Lambert

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I put a lot of work into training for this route. None of the moves are particularly hard, but it's a very sustained route, with long sections of punchy, difficult climbing. The last boulder in particular gave me quite a bit of trouble. I fell at the top eight times before punching through. Took quite a bit more effort than The Crew (8c+).