23 September 2024
Dylan Chuat's FA of Big Nose (8C)
"After a major cleaning session with Clรฉment Lechaptois, extensive method research (not easy to find), and a few attempts, here I am at the top of this King Line in Fionnay, which I named Big Nose in reference to the magnificent hold in the middle of the boulder. Without a doubt, itโs one of the most beautiful lines in Fionnay. Itโs impressive, the moves are incredible, the holds are crazy, and the effort to link it all together is really cool!
I took a while to decide on the grade because itโs much harder than all the 8B+ routes in the region and tougher than the only 8C Iโve actually tried and completed (over 4 years ago ๐ ). However, I wasnโt in my best shape, and once I found the methods, I completed the boulder fairly quickly. Additionally, the last crux is very condition-dependent, and Iโve never had truly cold conditions, which makes a big difference in the difficulty of the boulder. So, a heads-up to future repeaters!"
I took a while to decide on the grade because itโs much harder than all the 8B+ routes in the region and tougher than the only 8C Iโve actually tried and completed (over 4 years ago ๐ ). However, I wasnโt in my best shape, and once I found the methods, I completed the boulder fairly quickly. Additionally, the last crux is very condition-dependent, and Iโve never had truly cold conditions, which makes a big difference in the difficulty of the boulder. So, a heads-up to future repeaters!"
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
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(c) Kim Mโฆ
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Foundations Edge 8C by Clรฉment Lechaptois
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25 March 2021
Heritage 8B (+) flash by Clement Lechaptois
Clรฉment Lechaptois has flashed Heritage 8B (+) in Valle Bavona. It was put up as an 8B+ and in the 8a data base, half of the 18 ascents have actually called in 8B+. The 27-year-old has previously done three 8C's and flashed six 8A's.What kind of beta and preparation did you use?I watched some videosโฆ
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19 December 2021
Roadkill 8C by Graham and Lechaptois
David Graham and Clรฉment Lechaptois report on their Insta (DG) and Insta (CL) that they have repeated Shawn Raboutou's Roadkill (8C) in Valle Bavona.
(c) Kim Mโฆ
29 October 2019
Foundations Edge 8C by Clรฉment Lechaptois
Clรฉment Lechaptois has had a great month doing two 8B+'s in Colorado and his second 8C, Foundations Edge in Fionnay which was opened by Dave Graham in 2013.
"โฆ
25 March 2021
Heritage 8B (+) flash by Clement Lechaptois
Clรฉment Lechaptois has flashed Heritage 8B (+) in Valle Bavona. It was put up as an 8B+ and in the 8a data base, half of the 18 ascents have actually called in 8B+. The 27-year-old has previously done three 8C's and flashed six 8A's.What kind of beta and preparation did you use?I watched some videosโฆ
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
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Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ