23 September 2024
Dylan Chuat's FA of Big Nose (8C)
"After a major cleaning session with Clรฉment Lechaptois, extensive method research (not easy to find), and a few attempts, here I am at the top of this King Line in Fionnay, which I named Big Nose in reference to the magnificent hold in the middle of the boulder. Without a doubt, itโs one of the most beautiful lines in Fionnay. Itโs impressive, the moves are incredible, the holds are crazy, and the effort to link it all together is really cool!
I took a while to decide on the grade because itโs much harder than all the 8B+ routes in the region and tougher than the only 8C Iโve actually tried and completed (over 4 years ago ๐ ). However, I wasnโt in my best shape, and once I found the methods, I completed the boulder fairly quickly. Additionally, the last crux is very condition-dependent, and Iโve never had truly cold conditions, which makes a big difference in the difficulty of the boulder. So, a heads-up to future repeaters!"
I took a while to decide on the grade because itโs much harder than all the 8B+ routes in the region and tougher than the only 8C Iโve actually tried and completed (over 4 years ago ๐ ). However, I wasnโt in my best shape, and once I found the methods, I completed the boulder fairly quickly. Additionally, the last crux is very condition-dependent, and Iโve never had truly cold conditions, which makes a big difference in the difficulty of the boulder. So, a heads-up to future repeaters!"
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