Wojtek Pelka #3 in the onsight ranking game

Part of the background for establishing the 8a scorecard in 2000 was to encourage climbers to try to climb onsight instead of just trying to redpoint one route during a trip. The "bonus points" you get are worth three grades more. During the last years, we have seen that the redpoint level has increased at the same time as the onsight level has decreased. In general, there are few climbers who onsight three grades below their redpoint max.

Wojtek Pełka has onsighted nine routes 8a+ or 8b the last 12 months at the same time he has just redpointed one 8b+ and one 8c. In the onsight ranking game he is #3 although he has had a knee surgery this February. The picture is from his onsight attempt of Photo Shot (8b). (c) Mateusz Haładaj

Can you tell us more about your onsight focus?
I decided to commit to quick sending last year rather than just trying hard RP. I wouldn’t say it’s an onsight focus, but rather my approach for climbing abroad. Since I usually have trips shorter than 3 weeks I would like to climb as much as possible and explore new crags. By onsighting I can try more different routes. I find this style less challenging mentally, as you don’t have to deal with the pressure of time in which you should finish a redpoint project. I like the challenge of reading sequence correctly while having enough strength, endurance and confidence to make it through. Probably I didn’t have a proper project at my limit abroad because I’d never come back for a certain route. But maybe in the future, I will focus more on pushing my redpoint limit as well :).

What are your onsight plans this autumn?
Still not in full swing, unfortunately. This autumn, I won’t climb hard due to some mobility limitations of my knee. I need to carefully figure out beta before each attempt 🙂