NEWS

Isabelle Faus ticks Freaks of the Industry (8B)
Isabelle Faus has done Freaks of the Industry (8B) in RMNP (CO). In total, the 31-year-old has now done more than 40 boulders 8B or harder, out of which some ten 8B+'.

Can you tell us more about the ascent on this very long boulder?
Haha, yup definitely very long! It took a good amount of work because I didnโ€™t have the endurance. But itโ€™s still quite a powerful boulder, so needed all the skills to send haha. Super fun!

How many sessions were needed? Any special power endurance training in the gym?
Haha, havenโ€™t trained in a gym since I was a teenager. I don't know how many sessions, maybe once a week since the start of sept .. also started classes and the transition was hard on me so I donโ€™t really think the amount of days means anything in this case.

Julia Duffy completes Super Tweak (8c)
Julia Duffy, who 16 months had 8a+ as her personal best, has done Super Tweak (8c) in Logan Canyon.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Super tweak has some of the hardest but coolest moves I have done on a route. The climb starts off with a 7c/v9 boulder problem. From there, the climbing is quite sustained until a good rest 3/4 of the way up the route. After the rest, there is a final 7c/v9 boulder crux involving a big mono move. Iโ€™m usually more of an endurance climber so this route felt like a big step outside of my comfort zone. It is certainly my hardest route to date so Iโ€™m very happy to get it done!

Laura Rogora climbs Prima Classe (9a)
Laura Rogora has repeated Lorenzo Bogliacinoโ€™s Prima Classe (9a) in La Stazione. The 23-year-old has previously sent well over 20 routes 9a to 9b and her ticklist is actually quite superior among the girls. (c) Carlo Giuliberti

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the โ€unfinished businessโ€ you mentioned on Instagram?
I climbed here for 4 days and at the beginning, I tried Trainspotting (9a+). I unlocked all the moves and did the hardest section with one rest. On the second day, I tried Prima classe. I wasted a few tries by doing a harder beta and today I sent it on my first try of the day. Then I again tried Trainspotting and made some good attempts.

The crag is really cool, all natural and quite overhanging. The routes are funny, not so long with hard sections on small holds where power endurance is the key.

Two weeks before going to Rocklands, in the best shape of her life, Michaela Kiersch broke her pinky while trail running. Despite the injury, she kicked off her trip with a flash of two 7C+ boulders and sent an 8Bโ€”all using only three fingers on her left hand, as shown in photos on VL. Although we wanted to report this sooner, she asked us to wait until the trip concluded. In total, the doctor in hand therapy sent 15 boulders 8A to 8B+ during 13 climbing days.

Zach Galla sent Southern drawl (8C) in Chattanooga last January. In the Vertical-Life ranking game, the 24-year-old is #1, one point ahead of Will Bosi.

Mejdi Schalck ticks Es Pontas (9a+)
Mejdi Schalck, who did not make it to the Olympics because he was the third male to qualify from France, has sent Es Pontas (9a+) in Mallorca. Last year, he got the silver in both the Boulder World Cup and in the World Championship. (c) Timothรฉe Nitschke

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
I arrived in Mallorca 2 weeks ago and the main goal of the trip was to send Es pontas. The first sessions were not easy as it was my first-time deep water soloing. I wasnโ€™t able to climb completely relaxed, but after a few days on the island, I was feeling way better! I did the jump on my 4th sesh and then I sent the route on my 6th sesh, I fell many times on the very last crux of the route which gave me some trouble but after a big fight and a really good go I was able to send the route! I chose to jump with 2 hands at the end because it felt way easier for me, this was I think one of the biggest keys for my send.

How high up did you fall and how was it?
I fell many times on the last crux which is around 13 m and yeah it was ok!

Tyler Thompson does Southern Smoke Direct (9a)
Tyler Thompson, who since 2023 has sent six routes 9a or 9a+, has done Southern Smoke Direct (9a) in Red River Gorge (KY). "So stoked to do this one. Felt like maybe my hardest boulder ever! Adam [Ondra] flashing is beyond comprehensionโ€ฆ"

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Basically, the route is a direct start to southern smoke, a classic 14c [8c+] bolted by Joe Kinder and established by Joe and Brad Weaver. That route involves a hard left traverse to avoid the bottom mostly blank panel. When Joe equipped the route, he also envisioned this direct start, which is a seriously different boulder problem into the existing route. Adam Taylor did the first ascent and thought maybe it could be 15a, but then Adam Ondra came and flashed the route and proposed solid 9a. The video of Adam flashing is one of the videos I used to obsess over (Red River Gorge the movie) and I always wanted to climb the route with the same method that Adam uses.

On my trips to the Red, Iโ€™d have one short session checking in on the moves of the boulder, but I never really felt like it was possible until last fall, when I had a breakthrough session and got close to doing the boulder. I came back this year a bit more focused and climbed the boulder on my second day and sent the route on my third day of the trip!

Melina Costanza does Green in the face (8B)
Melina Costanza, who the last week won the US Nationals in both Lead and Boulder, has done Green in the face (8B) in Castle Rock Proper.

Can you tell us more doing your second 8B?
I felt really strong competing in US nationals last week and was itching to get back outside, so I planned a trip out to Idaho with Alex Johnson. Weโ€™d never been here before, so it took us around an hour to even find the boulder, but I looked at in and immediately thought I could flash it. Tragically, I undershot the last hard move on my flash go, but I was able to pull on and send my second try.

What are your winter plans and what about competitions in 2025?
Iโ€™m relatively new to climbing outside, so my goal for this winter season is to try lots of different locations and rock types to see what I enjoy best! Afterward, Iโ€™ll be competing in US Team Trials next spring and, if I qualify, maybe some world cups next season.

Pierre Marzullo, 17, does Anidalle tracteur (9a)
Pierre Marzullo, who last year sent Supercrackinette (9a+), has done Anidalle tracteur (9a) in L'Abattoir. โ€Pure beauty at home ๐Ÿ˜ canโ€™t wait to fight for the second pitch which is just perfect. 4 sessions to do this one spending my 2nd and 3rd sesh doing a shity betta, it went down after changing it ! Amazing moves and amazing rock.โ€