Placci and Ghisolfi share 9a FA bolted by Moroni

Tre Mou Polacche (9a) in Arco was bolted and named by Gabriele Moroni last year. Stefano Ghisolfi got an ok to try it and last sunday he made the FA together with Gio Placci, who comments;

“Some climbing routes in Arco and in other areas are kept closed, and we don’t want to encourage this. The goal is to show that making the First Ascent doesn’t need to be a competition. By avoiding closed projects, we promote cooperation within the climbers and show greater appreciation for the bolters, who put in a lot of hard work.

The route is really sick. Start with a 7C boulder then a good rest and then a 8c+ sequence of 20 moves !”

Gabri, can you tell us more about your bolting and your take about open projects?
I bolted Tre Mou Polacche on a random day after my tries on Erebor last year. I cleaned it and made it climbable, put some fixed draws and briefly tried but never had the time to go back for some proper tries. I imagined the possibility to climb the blank wall right of the classic 7c. Unfortunately I’ve never had the time to put my hand on it until one day this fall.

Then Stefano contacted me and asked if he could try it. To be honest I wish I could have tried it a little bit more and possibly get the FA but I know my time is limited and I live theee hours away so at the end I am glad someone got interested and had fun on the route…