29 November 2024

Melina Costanza repeats Direct North (8B+)

Melina Costanza, who last month won the US Nationals in both Lead and Boulder, has completed Direct North (8B+) in Buttermilks.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I originally went to Bishop to try The Swarm (8B), but we went to the Grandma boulder to warm up and I ended up doing all the components of Direct North. I knew I could put down the link quickly, but for some reason I had kind of an epic time on the whole line. I had a heartbreaker fall off the last move before it dumped snow for a couple days, but I stuck it out and sent the line once it cleared up. Big adversity training problem for me. Never ended up going to The Swarm the whole trip!
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