29 November 2024
Melina Costanza repeats Direct North (8B+)
Melina Costanza๐ฆ, who last month won the US Nationals in both Lead and Boulder, has completed Direct North (8B+) in Buttermilks.
Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I originally went to Bishop to try The Swarm (8B), but we went to the Grandma boulder to warm up and I ended up doing all the components of Direct North. I knew I could put down the link quickly, but for some reason I had kind of an epic time on the whole line. I had a heartbreaker fall off the last move before it dumped snow for a couple days, but I stuck it out and sent the line once it cleared up. Big adversity training problem for me. Never ended up going to The Swarm the whole trip!
Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I originally went to Bishop to try The Swarm (8B), but we went to the Grandma boulder to warm up and I ended up doing all the components of Direct North. I knew I could put down the link quickly, but for some reason I had kind of an epic time on the whole line. I had a heartbreaker fall off the last move before it dumped snow for a couple days, but I stuck it out and sent the line once it cleared up. Big adversity training problem for me. Never ended up going to The Swarm the whole trip!
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