Sera Gearhart, the #2 in the VL ranking game, has sent Blackout (8B) in Joe's Valley (UT). ”Fell too many times trying to cross under to the jug before getting smart, crimp card retained. Conditions matter”(c) John Oungst
Can you tell us more about the ascent and the number of sessions needed?
I tried Blackout in the spring hoping I could do it in warm conditions before the end of the season. The crimps are really sharp so coming back in the fall it felt like a different boulder. Much easier in the cold! Overall took me a few sessions between both seasons.

Nicolai Užnik, who was #5 in the World Championship last year, has flashed American Gangster (8B+) in Zillertal and repeated Aidan Roberts Unison (8C) in Brione. ”2nd ascent of this absolute kingline! Got super close to doing it yesterday already in my first session but luckily did it today in just a few attempts!” (c) Kim Marschner

Can you tell us more about the flash?
American Gangster was high up on my list for a while since got really close on flashing Anam Cara (8B+) this summer. I was psyched to try flashing this grade again and so I just went for it. Quite surprised it actually worked out on the flash since it‘s quite low percentage!

What are your winter plans and what about comps in 2025?
This winter I’ll definitely try to be outside as much as possible and probably put my focus especially on Alphane (9A). Then slowly switch back a bit more to comps and do the whole season next year again most likely!

Katie Lamb reports on Instagram that she has sent Fallen Angel (8C) in Tahoe. It was put up by James Webb in 2021 and has been repeated five times including Keenan Takahashi’s ascent from last month.

Over the past 18 months, the 27-year-old has climbed three 8C’s and four 8B+ boulders, solidifying her position as the top female boulderer in the world.

Cameron Hörst, who last year did his second 9a+, has made the FA of The Big Wish (9a) in Utah Hills. (c) Daniel Teitelbaum

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Over the last few weeks I have been traveling down to the Utah hills (from Salt Lake City) to climb with my friend Joe (Kinder) in the Fynn Cave. The climb Joe and I were initially trying to complete is a mega project of ours, The Big Bone Project, which we have spent multiple fall seasons trying over the last few years. This year I believe Joe and I finally showed up with the specific fitness required to send this big project, but unfortunately, the fall season in the Utah Hills was short lived (as the cooler conditions didn't come until mid October and then got too cold after the first week of November).

Because of the abnormal weather situation, I turned to trying this undone link up that we dubbed The Big Wish and Joe decided to prep up a new route he bolted at the crag.

I spent the last few climbable days in the cave trying to finish off The Big Wish and managed to do so on the last possible day that the weather was ample! This climb connects an existing 8c in the cave with the extension portion of Bone Tomahawk (the extension in of itself is a solid 8c route). Needless to say, The Big Wish is a proper endurance test piece. For me, this climb feels like one of the harder 9a's I've done.

What is next?
Now I am off to Spain to meet some friends and spend some time climbing in Margalef for the first time! I have wanted to do a trip to Margalef for years now, so I am curious to see what I can do there! Big Stoke!

Sean Bailey has made the FA of Shaolin (9A) in Red Rock (NV) which has been an open project for many years. The problem starts with a five-move 8B sequence that leads directly into the crux. The crux can be tackled either through a static method—Raboutou’s approach, which took him five days to execute in isolation—or with a dynamic, "low-percentage and physical" jump, as Bailey chose, targeting a sloping slot. From there, the climb demands a difficult and tenuous jump to a sloper, a move where Bailey repeatedly fell after starting from the ground.

The 27-year-old has been an active IFSC competition climber for over ten years and in 2021, he won one Boulder WC and two Lead WC's. He stopped competing last year after narrowly having made it to Paris.

Earlier in 2024, the 163 cm tall has sent two 8C’s as well as Lucid Dreaming (8C+) and the FA of Devilution (8C+). Regarding 9a and beyond he has sent more than a dozen including Bibliographie (9b+). In other words, Sean has one of the most accomplished tick lists out there.

Yuta Imaizumi, who was Top-12 in the last three Lead World Cups has made the fifth ascent of Ryuichi Murai’s Floatin (8C+) in Mizugaki. In regards the grade, he says it is at least 8C and actually harder than the 8C’s before.

Jessica Pilz, with five 8c+’ under her belt, has sent Papichulo (9a+) Oliana. At 27 years old, she has also established herself as a top competitor in Lead climbing since her World Cup debut in 2012. She won gold at the 2018 World Championships and earned a bronze medal at the Olympics this summer. The Austrian has also won the overall Lead WC for the past two consecutive years. (c) Toni Mas Buchaca

”Nooo words for what happened yesterday! My first 9a+ 😭 Projecting is haaaard, what a rollercoaster of emotions in the past couple of days!! Thx Steff [Scherz] for the belay and even more for your patience!!”

Can you tell us more about the projecting and the rollercoaster emotions?
It was a bit surprising that I could send it already yesterday! It was my 6th day on the route, and my 3rd proper attempt from the ground. I had two attempts the day before but I got so pumped and tired in the second half that it didn’t feel possible very soon. I was struggling the first two days on the route because the upper part was too wet to try. On the 3rd day I mostly tried the first half of the route and my goal was to find good beta for the first two cruxes. On day 4 I could finally try all the moves to the top of the route. After day 4 I took a rest day and then I felt ready to give it tries from the ground.

Laura Rogora has, in just one session, repeated Adam Ondra’s Bombardino (9a+) in Arco. In the past two months, since winning two gold medals at the European Championship, the Italian climber has previously red pointed four 9a routes and onsighted an 8c. (c) Giulio Diener

Can you tell us more about the quick ascent?
I went to Bus de la stria with Stefano [Ghisolfi]. The route starts with an 8b/8b+ followed by a technical Boulder on small crimps and pockets. I did two tries to find the betas and already on the 3rd try I fell after the hardest moves because I put my foot on some soft rock. I climbed again after an hour. I was a bit more tired but I climbed more efficiently and clipped the chain.

Olivia Ogier, with two 8b+ under her belt, has done Aitzol (8c) in Margalef. ”So damn cool. I drop kneed and went left into the crux pocket, hard move into the crimp before the jump. Had a heartbreaker fall a couple days ago at the very top… it’s not over up there lol. But 10/10!!! I had a singular day of mediocre conditions in this month of monsoons and I used it well :)”

Can you tell us more about the trip to Spain?
This trip to Margalef has been a constant battle against conditions… An unprecedented amount of rain has provided us very little dry rock and lots of humidity. Aitzol hasn’t been dry for weeks. But today, the sun finally came out and route was dry enough to go to the anchors. Luckily, all I needed was the one day of good weather (before the rain comes back tomorrow) to put the pieces together and send this beautiful route! I have my eye on a couple harder routes before I leave Spain… Fingers crossed the sun comes back!

Christian Leitner, who did his first 9a at age 14, has done Napalm in the morning (9a) in Adlitzgräben. The 15-year-old Austrian has won the last three European Youth Championship/Cups he has participated in.

Can you tell us more about the two 9a’s you have repeated?
My first 9a was Martin Krpan. Before each attempt, I was very nervous and excited, so for me, the route was less of a physical challenge and more of a huge mental one. I tried the route many times and almost climbed it when I was just 14 years old, but I fell at the top. I finally completed it during a training camp with the Austrian Youth National Team.

My second 9a was Napalm in the Morning, and that was more of a spontaneous thing! At the time, the Youth World Championships were coming up, but I got sick three weeks beforehand and had a lung infection. This meant I couldn’t compete at the Youth World Championships, so I had time for outdoor climbing. I tried the route a few times and quickly figured out the individual moves. The full ascent didn’t take long, either—I only needed about 20 attempts in total. The route was also more my style.

What is your climbing background?
I have been climbing since I was 3 years old. With 6 I started to climb in competitions but my focus always was outdoor climbing. At 10 I did my first 8a and 8b. Now I have more than 60 Routes that are 8a or higher. I have also been climbing international competitions for about teo years.