Jessy Pilz does Papichulo (9a+)

Jessica Pilz, with five 8c+’ under her belt, has sent Papichulo (9a+) Oliana. At 27 years old, she has also established herself as a top competitor in Lead climbing since her World Cup debut in 2012. She won gold at the 2018 World Championships and earned a bronze medal at the Olympics this summer. The Austrian has also won the overall Lead WC for the past two consecutive years. (c) Toni Mas Buchaca

”Nooo words for what happened yesterday! My first 9a+ 😭 Projecting is haaaard, what a rollercoaster of emotions in the past couple of days!! Thx Steff [Scherz] for the belay and even more for your patience!!”

Can you tell us more about the projecting and the rollercoaster emotions?
It was a bit surprising that I could send it already yesterday! It was my 6th day on the route, and my 3rd proper attempt from the ground. I had two attempts the day before but I got so pumped and tired in the second half that it didn’t feel possible very soon. I was struggling the first two days on the route because the upper part was too wet to try. On the 3rd day I mostly tried the first half of the route and my goal was to find good beta for the first two cruxes. On day 4 I could finally try all the moves to the top of the route. After day 4 I took a rest day and then I felt ready to give it tries from the ground.