16 November 2024

Sean Bailey FA’s Shaolin (9A)

Sean Bailey has made the FA of Shaolin (9A) in Red Rock (NV) which has been an open project for many years. The problem starts with a five-move 8B sequence that leads directly into the crux. The crux can be tackled either through a static method—Raboutou’s approach, which took him five days to execute in isolation—or with a dynamic, "low-percentage and physical" jump, as Bailey chose, targeting a sloping slot. From there, the climb demands a difficult and tenuous jump to a sloper, a move where Bailey repeatedly fell after starting from the ground.

The 27-year-old has been an active IFSC competition climber for over ten years and in 2021, he won one Boulder WC and two Lead WC's. He stopped competing last year after narrowly having made it to Paris.

Earlier in 2024, the 163 cm tall has sent two 8C’s as well as Lucid Dreaming (8C+) and the FA of Devilution (8C+). Regarding 9a and beyond he has sent more than a dozen including Bibliographie (9b+). In other words, Sean has one of the most accomplished tick lists out there.
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